Square Buttress and Suzanne

Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

The final pair of buttresses on the main section of Stanage have a pleasant collection of small routes and the classic bouldery roof of Suzanne.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Square Chimney Arete
4m. The arete left of the chimney is an eliminate.
1 user comment
 
Technical
S 4b
2
Square Chimney
4m. Climb the rift to an awkward exit leftwards.
 D
3
Monkey Crack
6m. The steep crack is a little tricky to access.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD 4a
4
Square Buttress Direct
6m. Tackle the steep front face and consider having a spotter.
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
HVS 5b
5
Square Buttress Arete
6m. Up the right-hand arete on its right-hand side.
1 user comment
 VS 4c
6
Square Buttress Wall
6m. The right wall of the buttress doesn't have much gear.
3 user comments
 HS 4b
7
Square Buttress Corner
4m. Bridge the angle, the shortest route on the cliff - maybe!
1 user comment
 D
8
Gashed Crack
6m. The awkward undercut crack in the last buttress.
4 user comments
 HS 5a
9
Ding Dong
6m. Powerful moves up the arete right of the crack.
 VS 5b
10
Suzanne
A classic problem up the centre of the last buttress. Reaching the large break above the overhang often involves a bit of a...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
V2 5c
11
Finale Direct
The direct start to Finale, over the right-hand side of the roof is a great problem for anyone who found Suzanne a bit easy.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
V3 6A
12
Finale
The right-hand arete is gained with difficulty. It is also possible to get at it from the right and continue for a HVS 5b.
5 user comments
 
Technical
V2 5c
13
Fire Curtain
8m. Bridge the angle which faces towards Millstone.
 VD
14
The Be All and End All
8m. Mantel into the triangular niche, step right and finish direct.
 VD
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