Suzanne

Adjacent Areas
< Mantelpiece Buttress  |  Apparent North >

Trad
Early morning sun
6 mins
Uphill
Windy

The final pair of buttresses on the main section of Stanage have a pleasant collection of small routes and the classic bouldery roof of Suzanne.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Square Chimney Arete
The arete left of the chimney is a bit of an eliminate.
1 user comment
 
Technical
S
2
Square Chimney
Climb the rift to an awkward exit leftwards.
1 user comment
 Diff
3
Steve's Wall
The tricky wall in the back of the recess.
1 user comment
 
Strong
HVS
4
Monkey Crack
The steep crack is a little tricky to access.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VD
5
Square Buttress Direct
Tackle the steep front face - worth having a spotter for.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
6
Square Buttress Arete
Up the right-hand arete on its right-hand side.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
7
Square Buttress Wall
The right wall of the buttress doesn't have much gear.
3 user comments
 HS
8
Square Buttress Corner
Bridge the angle. Maybe the shortest route on the cliff!
2 user comments
 Diff
9
Gashed Knee
The bouldery hanging arete.
1 user comment
 
Strong
VS
10
Gashed Crack
The awkward undercut crack in the last buttress.
4 user comments
 
Graunchy
HS
11
Ding Dong
Powerful moves up the arete right of the crack.
1 user comment
 f5
12
Suzanne
A classic problem. Reaching the large break above the overhang often involves a bit of a lunge. Continue up sloping rock.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6A
13
Finale Direct
A tough start to Finale, over the right-hand side of the roof is a great problem for anyone who found Suzanne a bit easy.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6A+
14
Finale
The right-hand arete is gained with difficulty. It is also possible to get at it from the right and continue for a HVS 5b.
6 user comments
 
Technical
f5
15
Fire Curtain
Bridge the angle which faces towards Millstone Quarry.
 VD
16
The Be All and End All
Mantel into the triangular niche, step right and finish direct.
 VD
17
The End of All Things
The last gasp via the roofed niche.
 HVD
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    The Mersey Variant
    "It is steep and the top end of 5C but has good hard moves, between good gear, to..." 02/Sep

    Via Roof Route
    "Two highly contrasting pitches: precarious slab climbing - usually on rock that ..." 20/Aug

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

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