D.I.Y. and Surprise

Adjacent Areas
< Count's Buttress  |  Outlook Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
15 mins

A short face of lovely rock, though sadly with only a small collection of routes. Technicians who want to escape the crowds should enjoy the place, though don't forget the mat/spotter. Guidebook page 128.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Leave Heather Alone
10m. An awkward finger crack leads past a heather clump to the pleasanter arete above.
 HS 5a
2
Black and Decker
10m. The technical left-hand side of the face to easy ground.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 6b
3
D.I.Y.
10m. The a little gem up the centre of the wall linking pockets, slopers and the one useful flake.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
4
Torture Garden
10m. The face just left of the crack has an extended reach for the beckoning pocket.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E3 6b
5
Grime
8m. The central crack is better than the name might suggest.
 
Pumpy
HS 4b
6
Sithee Direct
10m. Boulder up the wall to the overlap where things ease.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 6b
7
Sithee
10m. Start from the block on the right and swing left to reach the pockets then finish direct.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
8
Dot's Slab
12m. Hop onto the left-hand side of the slab then follow the break to the right-hand arete. Step round this to finish up an...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
D
9
Stumpy
8m. The centre of the slab, above the cutaway, on poor holds.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5a
10
Hard Head
10m. The bulge on the right (hard for the short - easy for the tall) then the face just to the left of the arete.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Rounded
HVS 5b
11
Basil Half-tail
8m. Pull over onto the slab, then head left to the hanging arête.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Strong
E1 5c
12
Tom-cat Slab
8m. The unprotected and precarious centre of the slab.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E1 5b
13
Skin Grafter
8m. The right arête of the slab leads to a worrying finale.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
14
Dry Crack
6m. The main angle above the ledge is often wet.
1 user comment
 D
15
Ma's Retreat
8m. From the end of the thin crack in the right wall, head right.
 
Reachy
Technical
E1 6a
16
Surprise
16m. Worth seeking out. Struggle up the short crack on the left then the wider one in the centre of the bulges on good jams. A...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
17
Mother's Day
12m. The crack in the right arete has a couple of steep moves.
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
VS 4c
18
Warlock
12m. A finger crack and series of walls lead to the left arete. Up this then move right to pull through the bulge with...
 
Strong
Rounded
HVS 5b
19
Afterthought
6m. From a ledge climb the left-hand crack, then the right one.
 S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

    The Archangel
    "Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascen..." 23/Nov

    Fern Groove
    "Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route..." 19/Nov

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