D.I.Y. Area

Adjacent Areas
< Count's Buttress  |  Surprise >

Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

A short face of lovely rock, though sadly with only a small collection of routes. Technicians who want to escape the crowds should enjoy the place, though don't forget the mat/spotter.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Flaked Crack
The left-slanting crack is harder than it looks especially if the grassy ledge to the left is avoided.
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
HS 4b
2
Flaked Traverse
From the same start, teeter away right to a short crack.
 S 4a
3
The Trickledown Fairy
The easy rib and sketchy upper slab. Bold and precarious.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
4
The Stretcher
Climb directly into the base of the right slanting groove and exit awkwardly from the top of this. Quite technical.
 VS 4c
5
Bon Ami
A shallow groove leads to a poor break, then take the left arete.
 
Technical
VS 5a
6
Amoeba on the Edge of Time
The right arete of the block leads to an awkward exit.
 
Rounded
VS 5b
7
Canton
Grubby and prickly work up the crack and groove.
 D
8
Have a Nice Day
The pleasant arete just right. Small cams help protect.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5a
9
The Anomalous Snail
A tough start gains easier romping above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5c
10
Sharpener
Climb straight up the left-hand side of the face.
 HVS 5a
11
Protractor
A ramp leads to a break. Move left and finish direct - hard.
 
Rounded
HVS 5b
12
Setsquare
The right-hand side of the face to a break, then a mantel finish.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
13
Have a Break
The tough arete of the block set at a higher level.
 
Technical
E3 6a
14
Kitkat
The centre of the block has some decent moves.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5c
15
Feeding the Pony
The left arete of the short face.
 S 4a
16
The Amazing Harry Greystoke II
Nice moves up the pocketed slab just right. Almost worth a star.
 VS 5b
17
Leave Heather Alone
A tricky finger-crack (with heather clump?) to the arete above.
 
Crimpy
HS 5a
18
Black and Decker
The technical left-hand side of the face leads to easy ground.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
V5 6C+
19
D.I.Y.
A little gem up the centre of the wall linking pockets, slopers and the one useful flake.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
V4 6B
20
Torture Garden
The face just left of the crack has a baffling extended reach for the beckoning pocket.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
V6 7A
21
Grime
The central crack. Better than the name suggests when clean.
 
Pumpy
HS 4b
22
Sithee Direct
Boulder up the wall to the overlap where things ease.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
V5 6C
23
Sithee
Start from the block on the right and swing left to reach the pockets then finish direct.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V1 5b
24
Committed
The unremarkable short rounded arete.
 
Rounded
VS 5a
25
Marmite
The short, wide and awkward crack in the side-wall. It is a bit of a love or hate affair.
 
Graunchy
HS 4a
26
Toxic
Zip up the flake, mantel right and exit up the cracks.
 
1 Stars
D
27
Cixot
A counter-diagonal up the face and the arete.
 VS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Crescent Groovelet
    "Changed from V1 5b * to V2 5c *, no votes" 21/Jan

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

    The Archangel
    "Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascen..." 23/Nov

    Fern Groove
    "Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route..." 19/Nov

    Outlook Buttress
    "Solid E1." 16/Oct

    Nightmare Slab
    "Harder than Daydreamer, due to the landing (or lack thereof). At E1 5c (as in ot..." 10/Sep

    Crossover
    "Worthwhile route with varied climbing. The bold slab isn't too hard and good cam..." 12/Jul

    Cinturato
    "This is one of those routes where, if you're cruising at E3, it'll seem like a p..." 19/Jun

    Search for comments