Fern Crack

Adjacent Areas
< Outlook Buttress  |  Wall End Slab Area >

Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
15 mins

To the left of the slumped slab of Wall End is a fine tall buttress tucked away in the back of a recess. There are several worthwhile climbs here with the Fern Crack/Groove twins the highlight of the area, several of the shorter climbs are worth seeking out too. Guidebook page 131.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tales of Yankee Power
10m. Climb the left-hand side of the front of the block, on small finger holds, to its crest and then the wall behind.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
2
Flaky Wall
10m. The flaky right side of the block leads to a swing left to reach its top. Finish easily. Just about unprotected!
8 user comments
 
Fluttery
Loose
E1 5b
3
Bastille
10m. The right arete of the face on its left-hand side.
1 user comment
 
Loose
E1 5b
4
Shaky Gully
10m. The awkward wide corner-crack and continuation behind.
 S 4a
5
Amphitheatre Face
8m. Reach the wall right of the groove with a triple jump start, or by traversing in from the left.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
VS 5a
6
Ladder Cracks
8m. The parallel cracks just left of the corner are awkward.
5 user comments
 VD
7
Ladder Corner
8m. The amiable corner that bounds the wall on its right
 D
8
Whimper
8m. The thin layback and wider upper section on the right.
 S 4a
9
Argus
8m. Low in the grade, but tie your belayer down! Climb the upper arete starting from a ledge on the left. Swing onto the arete...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
10
Silk
10m. An unprotected trip up the buttress left of Fern Crack. Start just left of the crack and swarm onto the bulge to where...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E5 6c
11
Fern Crack
16m. The long crack; the major feature of the buttress proves to be an awkward customer. A slippery layback or awkward jamming...
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Graunchy
VS 4c
12
Help the Aged
6m. The direct start to Fern Groove is very condition dependent. There is a similar problem just to the right which is V8, and...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Rounded
V7 6c
13
Smash Your Glasses
14m. Follow Fern Groove to the first grassy ledge then tackle the taxing right arete of the buttress keeping on its left-hand...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
14
Fern Groove
16m. Climb the right-hand edge of the slab then reach the hanging groove by a traverse from the right. Enter it by a puzzling...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E2 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

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