Fern Crack

Adjacent Areas
< Outlook Buttress  |  Wall End Slab Area >

Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

To the left of the slumped slab of Wall End is a fine tall buttress tucked away in the back of a recess. There are several worthwhile climbs here with the Fern Crack/Groove twins the highlight of the area, several of the shorter climbs are worth seeking out too.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tales of Yankee Power
10m. Climb the left-hand side of the front of the block, on small finger holds, to its crest and then the wall behind.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
2
Flaky Wall
10m. The flaky right side of the block leads to a swing left to reach its top. Finish easily. Just about unprotected!
8 user comments
 
Fluttery
Loose
E1 5b
3
Bastille
10m. The right arete of the face on its left-hand side.
1 user comment
 
Loose
E1 5b
4
Shaky Gully
10m. The awkward wide corner-crack and continuation behind.
 S 4a
5
Amphitheatre Face
8m. Reach the wall right of the groove with a triple jump start, or by traversing in from the left.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
VS 5a
6
Ladder Cracks
8m. The parallel cracks just left of the corner are awkward.
5 user comments
 VD
7
Ladder Corner
8m. The amiable corner that bounds the wall on its right
 D
8
Whimper
8m. The thin layback and wider upper section on the right.
 S 4a
9
Argus
8m. Low in the grade, but tie your belayer down! Climb the upper arete starting from a ledge on the left. Swing onto the arete...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
10
Silk
10m. An unprotected trip up the buttress left of Fern Crack. Start just left of the crack and swarm onto the bulge to where...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E5 6c
11
Fern Crack
16m. The long crack; the major feature of the buttress proves to be an awkward customer. A slippery layback or awkward jamming...
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Graunchy
VS 4c
12
Help the Aged
6m. The direct start to Fern Groove is very condition dependent. There is a similar problem just to the right which is V8, and...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Rounded
V7 7A+
13
Smash Your Glasses
14m. Follow Fern Groove to the first grassy ledge then tackle the taxing right arete of the buttress keeping on its left-hand...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
14
Fern Groove
16m. Climb the right-hand edge of the slab then reach the hanging groove by a traverse from the right. Enter it by a puzzling...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E2 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    Search for comments