Away from it All

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

Between the ever-popular Unconquerables and Dover's Wall is a series of short buttresses that have long been ignored. It has to be admitted they are a particularly undistinguished set of routes BUT do offer a set of easier climbs in a quiet setting. Folks wishing to learn the ropes could do worse than spend a bit of time here, at least they won't be accused of monopolising popular classics! Seekers of solitude might enjoy the place too!

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Curving Buttress Corner
12m. The long corner is very mild - suitable for the timid.
1 user comment
 M
2
Chockstone Crack
6m. The short crack is a bit of a thrash unless you layback it.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HVD 4b
3
Pinch
6m. The delicate arete then the small bulge up and right.
1 user comment
 S 4b
4
Greg's Retreat
6m. Spiral up the side wall of the buttress.
 
Technical
HVS 5b
5
Pillar Arete
6m. The pleasant undercut arete.
 
1 Stars
VD
6
Jammy
6m. The central crack then the face on the right at the top.
 D
7
Marmalade's Lost Start
6m. The perplexing centre of the small wall.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E1 5c
8
Delightful
6m. The pleasant left-hand slab is even well protected.
 
1 Stars
M
9
Gabriel
6m. The central crack is as mild as they come.
 M
10
Delicious
6m. The right-hand of the pair of slabs.
 
Technical
HVD 4b
11
Little Side Line
6m. The right side of the arete is awkward, especially the finish.
 
Technical
HS 4b
12
Delicacy
6m. Heathery ledges lead to the short layback flake.
 HVD 4a
13
Delovely
8m. Tricky moves access the slab which soon eases.
 S 4a
14
Delirious
8m. The crack with a jammed flake is another easy one.
1 user comment
 M
15
Scoop and Corner
8m. Up the rib then the right-trending scoop.
1 user comment
 M
16
Tumbledown
8m. The right side of the arete is awkward, especially the finish.
1 user comment
 VS 4c
17
One Two Eight
6m. Climb twin overlaps then pad to the top.
 
Technical
HVS 5b
18
Tower Block
12m. The left arete is hard to start.
 
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E3 6b
19
The Watch-Tower
12m. The right arete to a typical grit exit.
5 user comments
 
Rounded
HVS 5b
20
The Unthinkable
12m. Scratch past the tree then climb the centre of the wall.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Pumpy
E2 5b
21
The Groper
12m. Climb the front of the pillar then move right for an exposed finish via a crack that splits the nose.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
22
Accessory Chimney
10m. The groove to the right of the towers.
 HVD 4b
23
Accessory Wall
8m. The short wall just to the right of the chimney/groove.
2 user comments
 
Loose
HS 4b
24
Older Still
6m. The short crack in the left side of the wall.
 
Technical
S 4b
25
Of Old
6m. The short crack in the left side of the wall.
 
Technical
VS 5b
26
Mounting Frustration
6m. The tough centre of the wall is well named for the short.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 6b
27
Pretty Petty
6m. Just left of the holly.
1 user comment
 
Technical
HVS 5c
28
Old Pals
6m. The left-hand side of the short wall.
 
Technical
HS 4b
29
Pal
6m. The centre of the wall is more technical.
 
Reachy
Technical
HS 4c
30
Palermo
6m. The central crack.
 VD
31
Pal Joey
6m. A thinner crack just to the right.
 VD
32
Kangaroo
6m. The arete on its right-hand side with a tricky start.
1 user comment
 
Technical
HS 4c
33
Skippy
6m. The short wall starting just right of centre.
 
Rounded
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE PLANTATION

    Surprise
    "Astonishingly difficult." 09/Mar

    Tower Face
    "This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch ..." 02/Aug

    The Watch-Tower
    ".....next!" 31/May

    The Watch-Tower
    "Total sandbag. If you keep to the left of the arete it is at least 5C with no pr..." 31/May

    Goliath's Groove
    "My first grit HVS insight lead on my first trad day of 2013. It felt like it was..." 06/May

    Shirley's Shining Temple
    "Correction to first ascent detail. John Allen did the route by the direct start ..." 05/Jul

    Saul's Arete
    "Surely HVS? I was a good deal more comfortable leading Fina than seconding this..." 11/Jun

    Counterfeit
    "Agreed. 'Siderunners' are easily placed from the route so should be graded for t..." 14/May

    Counterfeit
    "Like Count's Wall, just one hard move - sadly this one uses the same hold in com..." 09/May

    Amphitheatre Face
    "...or by [starting on a doubled pad and] bearing down on a couple of pebbles for..." 24/Apr

    The Archangel
    "Fantastic route, definitely need a bit of conviction but the moves aren't too ba..." 07/Dec

    The Archangel
    "Wonderful. A bit of psychological beta for those looking at this before an ascen..." 23/Nov

    Fern Groove
    "Bit of a fiddle getting the wire in after the crux. Another quality little route..." 19/Nov

    Outlook Buttress
    "Solid E1." 16/Oct

    Nightmare Slab
    "Harder than Daydreamer, due to the landing (or lack thereof). At E1 5c (as in ot..." 10/Sep

    Crossover
    "Worthwhile route with varied climbing. The bold slab isn't too hard and good cam..." 12/Jul

    Cinturato
    "This is one of those routes where, if you're cruising at E3, it'll seem like a p..." 19/Jun

    Paradise Crack
    "Mates first lead on grit (and only his second climb on the stuff). There's loads..." 07/Jun

    The Count
    "Looks from the votes and comments that this doesn't start with a V5 boulder prob..." 24/Apr

    The Left Unconquerable
    "did this after 2 hours of bouldering so felt pumpy and got more tired from placi..." 07/Sep top50

    Symbiosis
    "Reading Bob's mention of "heart flutter" took me back to when I did th..." 10/Aug

    Fern Crack
    "This is probably on the upper limit of VS. I found all the sections hard - 4c al..." 09/Aug

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