The Line and Deadbay Groove

Adjacent Areas
< Beech Layback  |  The Cioch and Tree Wall >

Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
25 mins

A couple of severely neglected areas, which is a pity as there are some interesting climbs hereabouts. The gently leaning wall and steep cracks of the Deadbay obviously intrigued Whillans as he put up the first three climbs here on separate visits in the early 1950s. Best visit soon before the vegetation takes over completely. Guidebook page 288.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Thin
8m. The parallel thin cracks are protected by tiny wires.
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
2
Slack Crack
8m. The crack on good jams and jugs to a tricky exit.
 VD
3
The Line
14m. A hidden gem tucked behind the oak. Climb to, and up, the finger crack, then the short wall. Hard for the grade.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
HVS 5a
4
CB Variant
18m. Traverse the crest of the flake, finish up the grassy groove.
 
Fluttery
S 3c
5
Twilight Crack
8m. The short-lived but pumpy crack is worth seeking out.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
6
Shooting the Breeze
8m. The tenuous seam just to the right.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E2 5c
7
Artists Only
6m. Extemporise a way into and up the shallow hanging groove.
 
Technical
HVS 5c
8
Crepuscular
6m. The odd fissure with a series of jammed(?) flakes.
 
Pumpy
Loose
HS 4b
9
Deadbay Corner
8m. The groove on the left-hand side of the bay is a good line - pity about the state it's in, needs a good sprucing up!
 
Pumpy
HS 4b
10
Deadbay Groove Direct
12m. From the top of the initial groove, step left and steam up the wall above. Short-lived but quite intense.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 6a
11
Deadbay Groove
14m. The groove is awkward, sustained and often a bit damp. At the break, monkey right to the top groove of Deadbay Crack.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
12
Deadbay Crack
12m. The thin hand-crack, and a quick layback, gain the floral finishing groove. Short-lived but a pumpy number.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
13
Homicide
12m. The steep and sustained wall from the ledge on the right.
 
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
14
Deadbay Climb
14m. Swing along the shrubby hand traverse then climb the steep final groove of Deadbay Crack.
 
Pumpy
HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For CURBAR

    Diet of Worms
    "ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on..." 24/Sep

    Rise of the Robots
    "Haha 6b! Someone needs to lay off the crack pipe." 10/Aug

    Moonshine
    "Amazing that there are no comments for this brillant route. Technical interestin..." 02/Jun

    Rise of the Robots
    "Yes where did this 6b come from? I would go with 5c, but this route is much easi..." 17/Apr

    Finger Distance
    "A brilliant V4/5 with pads. I suppose you could argue that pads make it "to..." 14/Jan

    Honest John
    "Short but worthwhile" 26/Oct

    The Art of White Hat Wearing
    "Landing improved a while back and now a quality, West Side Story-esque, Font 7b+..." 19/Aug

    Soyuz
    "E1 5c. More in keeping with the Curbar grading system." 04/Jul

    Saddy
    "Thought that this is quite a good route. Good line cracks that require quite a b..." 09/Jun

    Saddy
    "I thought it was rather good, for some of the reasons Fiend dislikes it. It was ..." 08/May

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