Adjacent Areas
< Beech Layback | The Cioch and Tree Wall >
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
25 minsWindy
A couple of severely neglected areas, which is a pity as there are some interesting climbs hereabouts. The gently leaning wall and steep cracks of the Deadbay obviously intrigued Whillans as he put up the first three climbs here on separate visits in the early 1950s. Best visit soon before the vegetation takes over completely. Guidebook page 288.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Thin 8m. The parallel thin cracks are protected by tiny wires. | 1 Stars | VS 5a |
2 |
Slack Crack 8m. The crack on good jams and jugs to a tricky exit. | VD | |
3 |
The Line 14m. A hidden gem tucked behind the oak. Climb to, and up, the finger crack, then the short wall. Hard for the grade. 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | HVS 5a |
4 |
CB Variant 18m. Traverse the crest of the flake, finish up the grassy groove. | Fluttery | S 3c |
5 |
Twilight Crack 8m. The short-lived but pumpy crack is worth seeking out. | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
6 |
Shooting the Breeze 8m. The tenuous seam just to the right. | Technical Crimpy | E2 5c |
7 |
Artists Only 6m. Extemporise a way into and up the shallow hanging groove. | Technical | HVS 5c |
8 |
Crepuscular 6m. The odd fissure with a series of jammed(?) flakes. | Pumpy Loose | HS 4b |
9 |
Deadbay Corner 8m. The groove on the left-hand side of the bay is a good line - pity about the state it's in, needs a good sprucing up! | Pumpy | HS 4b |
10 |
Deadbay Groove Direct 12m. From the top of the initial groove, step left and steam up the wall above. Short-lived but quite intense. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | E3 6a |
11 |
Deadbay Groove 14m. The groove is awkward, sustained and often a bit damp. At the break, monkey right to the top groove of Deadbay Crack. | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5b |
12 |
Deadbay Crack 12m. The thin hand-crack, and a quick layback, gain the floral finishing groove. Short-lived but a pumpy number. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
13 |
Homicide 12m. The steep and sustained wall from the ledge on the right. | Pumpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
14 |
Deadbay Climb 14m. Swing along the shrubby hand traverse then climb the steep final groove of Deadbay Crack. | Pumpy | HVS 5a |