The Brain

Trad
Early morning sun
12 mins
Level
Windy

The lowest buttress of this complex area is seldom busy although The Brain gets lots of ascents. The Diet of Worms area is frequented by the hard-core.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Brain
Climb the slabby lower wall trending right - bold - to the base of a groove (possible belay). Enter and climb the groove to a...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
2
Mensa
Climb the centre of the slab to reach the left-hand arete. Boldly finish up this using a blend of flair and subtlety.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E6
3
Early Morning Day
The right arete of the slab. High but a good landing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6B
4
Oblongata
The open groove is precarious. Small wires protect.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS
5
Amphitheatre Chimney
The continuation rift to Oblongata gives proper chimney graft.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS
6
Oblongata/Amphitheatre Chimney
16m. A long outing up the rifts to the right of The Brain, both are awkward, a stance can be taken on the midway ledge.
 HS 4b
7
Birthday Crack
Thankfully the imposing fissure is easier than it looks.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
8
Not Another Chimney
This is the awkward widening rift on the right.
 
Graunchy
S
9
King of the Swingers
Climb the reachy wall left of the arete to a pocket (gear) then make a desperate long move left to finish.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5
10
King Louis
Start as for King of the Swingers to the runners, then make crucial moves up and right to a final mantel that has some...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
11
Diet of Worms
The arete is approached from the left. A tricky-to-place big cam protects the final difficult moves.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
E4
12
Slackers
The direct start is bold, dynamic and elegant, spotter(s) useful. The short may need to hand traverse the sloper under the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E6
13
Birthday Groove
The groove on the right is a pig to enter but eases above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
14
Flake Crack
Just right is a short wall split by a wide fissure - not on topo.
 
Graunchy
HS
  • Latest Comments

    For CURBAR

    Don't Slip Now
    "Death on a stick. Not really that hard....but crikey.... zero gear, nothing to r..." 19/Mar

    Diet of Worms
    "ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on..." 24/Sep

    Rise of the Robots
    "Haha 6b! Someone needs to lay off the crack pipe." 10/Aug

    Moonshine
    "Amazing that there are no comments for this brillant route. Technical interestin..." 02/Jun

    Rise of the Robots
    "Yes where did this 6b come from? I would go with 5c, but this route is much easi..." 17/Apr

    Finger Distance
    "A brilliant V4/5 with pads. I suppose you could argue that pads make it "to..." 14/Jan

    Honest John
    "Short but worthwhile" 26/Oct

    The Art of White Hat Wearing
    "Landing improved a while back and now a quality, West Side Story-esque, Font 7b+..." 19/Aug

    Soyuz
    "E1 5c. More in keeping with the Curbar grading system." 04/Jul

    Saddy
    "Thought that this is quite a good route. Good line cracks that require quite a b..." 09/Jun

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