The Brain

Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
20 mins

This complex area consists of a series of smaller walls and buttresses scattered up and down the hillside. The lowest buttress with The Brain is always popular and the Diet of Worms area is frequented by the hard-core. Guidebook page 294.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Brain
18m. Climb the slabby lower wall trending right - no gear - to the base of a groove (possible belay). Climb the groove to...
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
2
Mensa
14m. Climb the centre of the slab to reach the left-hand arete. Boldly finish up this. A perplexing problem for most.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E6 6b
3
Oblongata/Amphitheatre Chimney
16m. A long outing up the rifts to the right of The Brain, both are awkward, a stance can be taken on the midway ledge.
 HS 4b
4
Birthday Crack
8m. Thankfully the imposing fissure is easier than it looks!
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
5
King of the Swingers
8m. Climb the wall left of the arete to a pocket (gear) then make a desperate long move left to finish.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E5 6c
6
King Louis
8m. Start as for the previous route to the runners then make crucial moves up and right to a final mantel which has some...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
7
Diet of Worms
10m. The arete is approached from the left. A Friend 4 protects the final difficult moves.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 6a
8
Slackers
10m. The direct to the arete is bold, dynamic and elegant. The short may need to hand traverse the sloper under the roof.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
9
Birthday Groove
8m. The groove on the right is a pig to enter but eases above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For CURBAR

    Diet of Worms
    "ooops - 19th May 1978 according to the Tanky's new routes book. hex 7 stacked on..." 24/Sep

    Rise of the Robots
    "Haha 6b! Someone needs to lay off the crack pipe." 10/Aug

    Moonshine
    "Amazing that there are no comments for this brillant route. Technical interestin..." 02/Jun

    Rise of the Robots
    "Yes where did this 6b come from? I would go with 5c, but this route is much easi..." 17/Apr

    Finger Distance
    "A brilliant V4/5 with pads. I suppose you could argue that pads make it "to..." 14/Jan

    Honest John
    "Short but worthwhile" 26/Oct

    The Art of White Hat Wearing
    "Landing improved a while back and now a quality, West Side Story-esque, Font 7b+..." 19/Aug

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