Eastern Front and Grogan

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
5 mins
Level

The wall left of Remergence Buttress is split by three slanting cracks. On the far left the thinnest crack of The Grogan is a classic finger shredder, whereas the wide fissure of Pulcherrime gives good jamming. Not much of interest to boulderers but a reasonable venue for soloists. Up the slope to the left from The Grogan, is a short wall split centrally by a wide crack, it is home to four interesting micro-routes plus bouldering variations.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
All Quiet on the Eastern Front
6m. Gain the left arete by a cross-hands traverse from the left and then climb it rapidly.
20 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
V3 6A
2
All Quiet Direct
The sit-down an even harder V9 (6c).
 
Technical
V7 7A+
3
The Busker
6m. The steep slab on the right gets a bit close to the crack for real purity of line though it has some good moves.
3 user comments
 VS 4c
4
Bracken Crack
6m. The central crack is more awkward than it looks and is a bit wide to protect easily. Harder for the short.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD 4a
5
Green Slab
6m. A juggy wall has an awkward move early on up a leaning groove and is easier above. Slab - somehow I don't think so!
10 user comments
 
Strong
VS 5a
6
The Grogan
8m. The thin crack is protectable but a surprising struggle; fat fingers do not help at all. A proper gritstone HVS!
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5c
7
Groat
8m. The thin wall just right of the crack sees little attention.
 
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
E1 6b
8
Wollock
8m. Trend right up the wall then finish direct. A bit reachy in its central section, to a high crux. Escaping right is only...
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS 4c
9
Wollock Direct
8m. A long stretch up the wall is interesting.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
HVS 5c
10
Pulcherrime
8m. The left-slanting crack is mild but awkward.
12 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
11
Slanting Crack
8m. A bit of a grovel up the wide crack.
1 user comment
 VD
12
Small is Beautiful
8m. The tiny wall to the right is climbed direct.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
V6 7A
13
Slanting Gully
8m. Polished holds lead to easier climbing above.
 D
14
Chockstone Climb
8m. The deep chockstoned rift to a sloping exit.
 VD
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    Submission
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

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