Twin Chimneys and Falstaff's Are

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
18 mins
Level

The section of edge between Knight's Move and the more popular walls further to the south tends to be much quieter, but tucked in behind the silver birch trees are several mini-classics worth seeking, plus a few other bits and pieces. None of the routes here are of exceptional quality or length but, if you get fed-up of the crowds elsewhere, and want quick access to a quiet few routes in splendid isolation, then this is a worthy venue to head for. Guidebook page 208.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Barry Manilow
6m. Tackle the slab and aquiline beak direct.
3 user comments
 VS 5a
2
Survivor's Syndrome
8m. The squeezed-in left arete of the buttress needs care.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
3
Twin Chimneys Layback
8m. An excellent little pitch which is worth seeking out.
 
1 Stars
HVD 4a
4
Left Twin Chimney
8m. The sinister sister is awkward, large gear helps.
 VD
5
Right Twin Chimney
8m. The dexter one is harder; a useful chock can be threaded.
 HVD
6
Happy Slapper
8m. An escapable eliminate up the pocketed pillar on the right.
 
Rounded
HVS 5a
7
Jimmy Riddle
8m. The right-hand pillar starting via a short crack.
 
Rounded
VS 4c
8
Spit Slab Crack
12m. The tricky thin crack is followed to a ledge. Continue direct.
 S 4a
9
Split Slab
12m. The slippery slab leads to the wide awkward fissure above.
1 user comment
 
Technical
HVD
10
Slide-away
10m. Access the arete from below and teeter up it.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5a
11
Grotto Slab
12m. Balance up the mild but unprotected slab and do battle with the holly cornice. A thrilling finish can be had up the...
1 user comment
 
Rounded
M
12
Grotto Crack
10m. The well-hidden groove is normally an uninviting shade of green though it is worth a quick visit during a dry spell.
 
Rounded
VS 4b
13
Submission
8m. From the crack balance out left and zip up the arete.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
14
Falstaff's Chimney
10m. The narrow chimney/wide crack is awkward.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
15
Falstaff's Innominate
10m. Another eliminate from the time before eliminates.
1 user comment
 
Technical
S 4b
16
Falstaff's Crack
10m. The right-hand fissure has an awkward entry.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
D
17
Bilberry Cake
10m. The left-hand side of the slabby face.
4 user comments
 
Rounded
HVS 5a
18
Bilberry Wall
12m. Climb to the crack, then up this and the flakes above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VD
19
Bilberry Arete
12m. Balance up the pleasant arete.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
S 4b
20
The Edging Machine
6m. Technical moves up the left arete.
3 user comments
 
Technical
HVS 5b
21
Alpha Crack
6m. The first continuous crack is awkward to access.
2 user comments
 
Technical
VS 4c
22
Omega Crack
6m. Climb the shallow groove, beware the loose blocks.
 
Loose
VD
23
Scarred Buttress Climb
6m. The right-hand face leads to the big flake.
1 user comment
 VD
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