Twin Chimneys to Tharf Cake

Adjacent Areas
< Knight's Move  |  Brooks' Layback >

Trad
Early morning sun
12 mins
Level
Windy

The section of edge between Knight's Move and Long Tall Sally tends to be quiet, but tucked behind the trees are several decent climbs. None of these routes is exceptional but, if you want some solitude, then this area is worth a look. Many of the uncredited routes here were first climbed by Sheffield Climbing Club in the 1930s.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Barry Manilow
Tackle the slabs and roof direct.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
2
Survivor's Syndrome
The squeezed-in left arete of the buttress needs care.
 E2 5b
3
Twin Chimneys Layback
An excellent little pitch that is worth seeking out.
 
2 Stars
HVD 4a
4
Left Twin Chimney
The sinister sister is awkward - large gear helps.
 
Graunchy
VD
5
Right Twin Chimney
The dexter one is harder. A useful chock can be threaded.
 
Graunchy
HVD
6
Happy Slapper
An escapable eliminate up the pocketed pillar on the right. Unobvious moves and lacking in gear.
 HVS 5a
7
Jimmy Riddle
Committing moves up the right-hand pillar via a short crack.
 VS 4c
8
Split Slab Crack
The tricky thin crack is followed to a ledge. Continue direct.
 S 4a
9
Split Slab
The slippery slab leads to the wide awkward fissure above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
HVD 4b
10
Slide-away
Access the arete from below and teeter up it. Low gear.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5a
11
Grotto Slab
Balance up the mild but unprotected slab and do battle with the holly. A more thrilling finish can be had up the exposed and...
1 user comment
 M
12
Grotto Crack
The hidden groove is normally green, though it is worth a quick visit during a dry spell. A couple of slings for threads may...
 
Graunchy
VS 4b
13
Submission
From the crack balance out left and zip up the arete.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
14
Falstaff's Chimney
The narrow chimney/wide crack is awkward.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
15
Falstaff's Innominate
Another eliminate from a time before eliminates. Be careful lest you tick three routes in one go.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
S 4b
16
Falstaff's Crack
The right-hand fissure has an awkward entry.
2 user comments
 D
17
Paleface
The pale face and arete across the gully.
 HVS 5a
18
Bilberry Cake
The left-hand side of the slabby face.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
19
Bilberry Wall
Climb to the crack, then up this and the flakes above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
20
Bilberry Arete
The tricky start then follow the arete to a ledge. Continue direct.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
S 4a
21
The Edging Machine
Make technical moves up the left arete; minimal gear.
3 user comments
 
Technical
HVS 5b
22
Alpha Crack
The first continuous crack is awkward to access.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Graunchy
HS 4b
23
Omega Crack
Climb the shallow groove. Beware the wobbly blocks.
 
Loose
VD
24
Scarred Buttress Climb
The right-hand face leads to the big flake and a layback move.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
25
First Crack
A left-leaning crack has a tricky move or two.
2 user comments
 S 4b
26
Tharf Cake
A two-move-wonder starting right of First Crack. It has small holds and the odd useful pocket. Low in the grade but a bit bold.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
27
Left Twin Crack
An awkward layback in its middle section.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
28
Right Twin Crack
Not to be left out, the right-hand crack is tricky in its middle section. It is well protected where it matters.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVD 4a
29
Farcical Arete
The arete is climbed on its left side throughout and is unprotected. The start is the crux, and can be avoided on the right at...
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    End Slab
    "Changed from D * to D *, 0% of 7 votes for D" 11/May

    Submission
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

    Knight's Move
    "The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the ..." 21/Nov

    Now or Never
    "Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn ..." 27/Oct

    Approach
    "Five years later it still feels E2." 23/Jun

    Greeny Crack
    "Top route, got the heart going without desperation. Ankle/knee jam in the crack ..." 04/May

    Green Slab
    "John - Not at bouldering height, no, it's VS." 20/Feb

    Long Tall Sally
    "the start to this is easy just one side pull to the pocket rather than using all..." 04/Oct

    Alpha Crack
    "A real soft touch, easier than Left Twin Crack and if Mutiny Crack is HS, then t..." 05/Sep

    Wobblestone Crack
    "Start much harder than on other routes nearby. Probably worth 4b at least." 05/Sep

    Bilberry Wall
    "Harder than it looks from the ground (I guess the slopers icon is fair warning),..." 31/Aug

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