Brooks' Layback

Trad
Early morning sun
20 mins
Level
Windy

A fine area on the north end of the longest continuous section of the edge. It has a decent collection of short lower-grade routes. Brooks' Layback is a midget gem.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Irrepressible Urge
The scary front face of the square buttress, trending right - neat.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
2
The Arctic Mammal
An intense bouldery route up the arete. Originally done on the right side though the crack is too close for comfort - Small...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
3
Left Recess Crack
The short but pleasant crack in the left-hand angle.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 3c
4
Right Recess Crack
The mirror image in the opposite angle has a bit of a stretch.
1 user comment
 HS 4a
5
Ace
A narrow, protruding arete which can be climbed first on the left and then up its crest. Delicate, sustained and gearless.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
6
The Crack
The wide fissure is good practice for Goliath's Groove.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HS 4a
7
The Chimney
The narrow rift; often damp and dirty. Included for completeness.
1 user comment
 Diff
8
Thrall's Thrutch
The wide corner-crack is well-named - you have been warned.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S 4a
9
Brooks' Layback
The short right-angled corner-crack starts from a ledge and many find it is just too thin for good jams.
18 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS 4b
10
Wobblestone Crack
The crack with wobbling stones eases with height.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVD 4a
11
Red Shift
The scary arete is gained from the right. Never gets done.
 E3 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    Submission
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

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