Tharf Cake and Brooks' Layback

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
20 mins
Level

A fine area that has a good collection of lower-grade routes that are quite short and usually quieter than the area just to the right. Brooks’ Layback is a midget gem.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
First Crack
8m. A left-leaning crack has a tricky central section.
2 user comments
 S 4b
2
Tharf Cake
8m. A bit of a two-move-wonder starting as for First Crack. It has small holds and the odd useful pocket. Low in the grade.
9 user comments
 
Technical
HVS 5a
3
Left Twin Crack
8m. An awkward layback in its middle section.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
4
Right Twin Crack
8m. Not to be left out, the right-hand crack is tricky in its middle section. It is well protected where it matters.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVD 4a
5
Farcical Arete
8m. The arete is climbed on its left-hand side throughout and is unprotected. The start is the crux.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
HS 4a
6
The Irrepressible Urge
8m. The scary front face of the square buttress, trending right.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
7
Small Arctic Mammal
8m. A boulder problem up the right side of the arete proves to be artificial - no touching Left Recess Crack! Doing it on the...
2 user comments
 
Technical
V3 6A
8
Left Recess Crack
8m. The short but pleasant crack in the left-hand angle.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 3c
9
Right Recess Crack
8m. The mirror image in the opposite angle has a long reach.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
HS 4a
10
Ace
8m. A narrow, protruding arete which can be climbed first on the left and then up its crest. Delicate, sustained and gearless.
6 user comments
 
Fluttery
VS 4b
11
The Crack
6m. The wide fissure is good practice for Goliath's Groove.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HS 4a
12
The Chimney
6m. The rift is often damp and dirty - included for completeness.
 D
13
Thrall's Thrutch
8m. The wide crack is well named - you have been warned.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S 4a
14
Brooks' Layback
8m. The short right-angled corner-crack starts from a ledge and many find is just too thin for good jams.
18 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
15
Wobblestone Crack
8m. The crack with wobbling stones eases with height.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD 4a
16
Red Shift
8m. The scary arete is gained from the right.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
17
Hollybush Gully
8m. A square-cut slot which is really more of a chimney.
1 user comment
 VD
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    Submission
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

    Knight's Move
    "The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the ..." 21/Nov

    Now or Never
    "Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn ..." 27/Oct

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