Nicotine Stain and End Slab

Adjacent Areas
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Sun from mid-morning
25 mins
Level

Burbage North’s last gasp has some good micro-routes on quality rock, and a couple of pleasant slabs that might interest those in search of an easy time.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rose Flake
8m. Steep and enjoyable crack climbing up the north-facing wall on jugs and jams, and with plenty of runners.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
2
The Fin
8m. The hanging groove is a real struggle to enter though at least it has overhead gear. It is much easier above.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
3
Ai No Corrida
8m. Layback boldly up the flying arete. A runner in the next route is only of limited help but it is all you are going to get!
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
4
Right Fin
8m. An elegant curving flake with a layback move and long stretch before things ease. Low in the grade but bold.
17 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
5
The Enthusiast
6m. The tricky left arete. For the person who has done everything else on the cliff perhaps?
2 user comments
 
Technical
V3 6A
6
Nicotine Stain
6m. The thin seam is climbed on its left-hand side - thin! A very frustrating problem that sees many floundering attempts and...
16 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
V4 6B
7
April Fool
6m. Straightforward climbing up the prominent crack
3 user comments
 VD
8
Approach
6m. The pocketed wall just right.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
V1 5b
9
Spider Crack
6m. A pleasantly-technical crack which even has runners.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5b
10
The Be All
6m. The left-hand crack is quite mild.
2 user comments
 HVD 4a
11
The End All
6m. Climbing the last crack on the wall is a struggle.
5 user comments
 
Graunchy
Loose
HS 4b
12
End Buttress
8m. A wide crack and slab on the left-hand side of the arete.
1 user comment
 M
13
The Penultimate
8m. The pleasant narrow face has a technical start.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
14
End Slab
8m. A nice easy slab
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
15
Two Pocket Sitter
Steep moves past the two pockets. Slink off left or right.
1 user comment
 
Technical
V3 6A
16
Back End Slab
8m. Another nice easy slab with a steeper finish.
 D
17
Ender
8m. The crack in the left-hand side of the face; tricky to start.
6 user comments
 D
18
Endest Arete
8m. The left edge of the final slab has a steep start.
 VD
19
Endste
8m. The wall and flake above.
4 user comments
 D
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

    Knight's Move
    "The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the ..." 21/Nov

    Now or Never
    "Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn ..." 27/Oct

    Approach
    "Five years later it still feels E2." 23/Jun

    Greeny Crack
    "Top route, got the heart going without desperation. Ankle/knee jam in the crack ..." 04/May

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