Far Left

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
25 mins
Uphill

At the northern end of Burbage South is a series of tiny buttresses with about twenty routes up to 7m high mostly in the lower grades, though with a few harder outings and some good bouldering.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Little Rascal
A technical gem which is a great V5 problem until it gets too high.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
2
Pebble Crack
6m. Thin jamming up the pebbled crack, reached from the right.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
3
Intense
The tiny steep wall. Jump for holds then use them!
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
V11 8A
4
Prow Crack
6m. Awkward jams lead to steep pulls right of the jutting prow.
 S 4b
5
The Rib
Thin climbing up the quarried face to a dynamic finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V8 7B+
6
Fat Man's Misery
6m. Thankfully the evil crack has a useful flake on its left.
 
Graunchy
S 3c
7
Impossible Groove
8m. The grade - well your guess is as good as mine!
 
3 Stars
V14 8B+
8
Desparete
The classic desperate and yet appealing arete!
 
1 Stars
Technical
V8 7B+
9
No Name Crack
6m. Short-lived but very pleasant.
 VD 4a
10
Clark's Route
The short wall right of the angular arete.
 V1 5b
11
Sublime InDerence
Climb past the right-hand end of the ramp via a long reach.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
V2 5c
12
Big Bad Wolf
8m. From the block climb the face up then right with Diculty.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
13
Home Cooking
Make some fridge-huggin moves up the arete above a poor landing. The slabby right-hand side on its own V6.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
V5 6C
14
Chockstone Layback
6m. Layback the left-hand side of the block then finish direct.
1 user comment
 HVD 4a
15
Little Pig
6m. The wide right-hand crack in the recess is a bit of a grunt!
 
Graunchy
S 4b
16
The Alliance
6m. Bear-hug the jutting arete to the top.
 
Technical
V6 7A
17
Friar's Wall
6m. The next arete on its right-hand (and green!) side.
 VS 4b
18
Dominican
6m. The next corner-crack contains a good jamming crack.
 HVD 4b
19
Guppy Arete
Balance up the delightful arete. The left side of the arete is V1 (5c).
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
V2 5c
20
Slantside
6m. The slanting cleft is the mildest for miles.
 M
21
Short Crack
6m. The short-lived fissure on the left side of the next buttress.
 HVD 4a
22
Renobulous Bongetl
8m. The right arete is reachy precarious and scary.
 
Reachy
Fluttery
E5 6a
23
Breathless
6m. The left-hand side of the arete leads to a final long stretch.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
HVS 5b
24
Lens Crack
6m. The corner leads to good jamming up the short crack. The right-hand crack is a little easier.
 S 4a
25
Split Nose
6m. A split nose on the left gained from a nearby boulder.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
26
The Gnat
6m. The left-hand crack gives a short and safe struggle.
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
27
Midge
6m. The right-hand crack is just a gnat's harder.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1 6a
28
Kleg
6m. Climb the wall behind the boulder and escape right.
 
Crimpy
HVS 5b
29
The Notorious B L G
10m. Climb over the roof (gear in the break) and up the pebbled, but holdless scoop above with a double dyno to finish!
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E7 6c
30
Every Man's Misery
6m. The wide right-leaning crack is a thrash and is well named.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 5a
31
Triglyph
6m. More graunchy climbing up the right-hand crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
32
Heidi-Boo
6m. The narrow slab with a quartet of breaks at two-thirds height.
 E2 5c
33
Abu Simbel
6m. The green looking groove is worthwhile when dry.
 
1 Stars
D
34
Bobby Dazzler
6m. Use edges to gain the grassy ledge and continue up the tilted wall above to good finishing holds.
 
Crimpy
E4 6a
35
The Connection
8m. Mantel left out of The Thistle Funnel and head left.
 HVD 4a
36
The Thistle Funnel
10m. The tricky crack splitting the arete leads to easier ground.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
VD 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

    Life Assurance
    "First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

    Samson
    "it looks so much easier on hard grit..." 20/Sep

    Nathaniel
    "Nasty. Tape up well!" 13/May

    Byne's Crack
    "Felt pretty tough for VS 4B not sure if that's cause it's a while since I've led..." 09/Dec

    The Boggart
    "easier to solo but still 6b. really interesting tenuous moves." 06/Nov

    Guppy Arete
    "The description of this in the Peak Bouldering guide is a way overgraded 7a+ (pr..." 19/Aug

    Triglyph
    "A nice little route, awkward to get into the sentry box, but once you do its all..." 23/Jul

    Life Assurance
    "I took the fall from the crux, and was completely fine! I wasn't very close to t..." 21/Jun

    Byne's Crack
    "Thought this was quite worthwhile. Are you allowed to use the boulder to start ..." 05/Jun

    The Knock
    "www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJluNO8CmOM" 01/Nov top50

    Gable Route
    "Definitely not HVS, good gear and a rest before each tricky move." 08/Aug

    Brooks' Crack
    "Great route!!! should be on everyones grit agenda." 05/Aug

    Gable Route
    "lovely route, good gear, funny start (especially the way i did it) climb the sla..." 04/Aug

    Nick Knack Paddywack
    "Direct finish above the flake done by myself yesterday - Bright Eyes V7 (6c)." 13/May

    Left Bannister
    "All over very quickly, more like severe 3c given the good holds" 29/Apr

    Bad Attitude
    "Great problem, I had to pop for the crimp in the break - a good aim is useful." 26/Apr

    The Drainpipe
    "Very strenuous for severe, desperate when wet (& slow to dry). Good line tho..." 03/Apr

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