Earl Area

Adjacent Areas
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Early morning sun
18 mins
Level
Windy

The northern end of Burbage South continues as a series of small buttresses, gradually dwindling in height, with a few notable hard outings, some lower-grade cracks and lots of quality bouldering. The place is always quiet and is especially pleasant on warm spring evenings.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Little Rascal
A technical gem. The starting groove is Rascal Groove, f7A. The direct start up the arete is Dirty Rascal, f7A.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6c
2
Ronnie's Rib
Climb the arete from a sitting start.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
Technical
f7A
3
Intense
The tiny steep wall. Jump for holds then use them!
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
f8A 7a
4
Flake 'n' Blob
Climb the flake and exit using the blob.
 f4
5
Standup Arete
The arete on its right-hand side. On its left is f6C.
 
2 Stars
Technical
f6B
6
Rail Thing
Dyno to the top ledge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Dyno
f5+
7
Pocket Wall
Climb the centre of the wall via a pocket. To the left is f7A.
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6B
8
Pebble Crack
Thin jamming up the pebbled crack, reached from the right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
9
Footy Rib
The rib on the right of the buttress. The dyno to the left is f6C.
 
Technical
f5+
10
Snitch
The arete to the break.
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6A+
11
Prow Crack
Awkward jams lead to steep pulls right of the jutting prow.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4b
12
The Rib
Thin climbing up the quarried face to a dynamic finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
f7B+
13
Fat Man's Misery
Thankfully the evil crack has a useful flake on its left.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S 3c
14
Brap Scallion
The arete right of the chimney on its right.
 
3 Stars
Technical
f6C
15
Impossible Groove
The grade? Well your guess is as good as mine! One of three impossible projects on Burbage South.
 
3 Stars
??
16
Desparete
The classic desperate and yet appealing arete! E4-ish.
 
3 Stars
Technical
f7B
17
No Name Crack
A short-lived but very pleasant bit of jamming.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD 4a
18
Clark's Route
The short and angular left arete.
 f5
19
Sublime Indifference
Climb past the right-hand end of the ramp via a long reach.
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6A
20
Big Bad Wolf
From the block climb the face up then right with difficulty.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
21
Home Cooking
Make some fridge-lifting moves up the arete above a poor landing. The right-hand side on its own is an easier f6C.
 
1 Stars
Technical
f7A
22
Chockstone Layback
Layback the left-hand side of the block then finish direct.
2 user comments
 HVD 4a
23
Green S-Groove
Sometimes a bit green as you might expect.
 
Technical
f6A
24
Little Pig
The wide right-hand crack in the recess is a bit of a grunt.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
S 4b
25
The Alliance
Bear-hug the jutting arete to the top. f7B+ from sitting.
 
3 Stars
Technical
f7A
26
Friar's Wall
The next arete on its green right-hand side. A VS for traddies.
 f3+
27
Dominican
The next corner crack contains a good jamming crack.
1 user comment
 HVD 4b
28
Guppy Arete
The left-hand side of the arete aiming for the big hold.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
f5+
29
Classic Arete
The right side of the arete, from low, to gain the good hold.
 
2 Stars
Technical
f6C
30
Slantside
The slanting cleft is the mildest for miles.
 M
31
Short Crack
The short-lived fissure on the left side of the next buttress.
1 user comment
 HVD 4a
32
Renobulous Bongetl
The right arete is reachy, precarious and scary.
1 user comment
 E5 6a
33
Breathless
The left-hand side of the next arete leads to a final long stretch.
2 user comments
 HVS 5b
34
Lens Crack
The corner leads to good jamming up the short crack. The right-hand crack is a little easier.
1 user comment
 S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Electrical Storm
    "Changed from f7A+ 6c to f7A+ **, 0% of 1 vote for **" 23/Mar

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

    Life Assurance
    "First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

    Samson
    "it looks so much easier on hard grit..." 20/Sep

    Nathaniel
    "Nasty. Tape up well!" 13/May

    Byne's Crack
    "Felt pretty tough for VS 4B not sure if that's cause it's a while since I've led..." 09/Dec

    The Boggart
    "easier to solo but still 6b. really interesting tenuous moves." 06/Nov

    Guppy Arete
    "The description of this in the Peak Bouldering guide is a way overgraded 7a+ (pr..." 19/Aug

    Triglyph
    "A nice little route, awkward to get into the sentry box, but once you do its all..." 23/Jul

    Life Assurance
    "I took the fall from the crux, and was completely fine! I wasn't very close to t..." 21/Jun

    Byne's Crack
    "Thought this was quite worthwhile. Are you allowed to use the boulder to start ..." 05/Jun

    The Knock
    "www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJluNO8CmOM" 01/Nov top50

    Gable Route
    "Definitely not HVS, good gear and a rest before each tricky move." 08/Aug

    Brooks' Crack
    "Great route!!! should be on everyones grit agenda." 05/Aug

    Gable Route
    "lovely route, good gear, funny start (especially the way i did it) climb the sla..." 04/Aug

    Nick Knack Paddywack
    "Direct finish above the flake done by myself yesterday - Bright Eyes V7 (6c)." 13/May

    Left Bannister
    "All over very quickly, more like severe 3c given the good holds" 29/Apr

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