Dowel Crack

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The central section of the cliff has a series of small walls split by some short and meaty cracks. It looks rather under-whelming but there are some decent climbs across the grades. The area is green after any rain and throughout any normal winter.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Captain Sensible
Thin cracks in the north-facing slab - usually a bit green.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
2
Slow Ledge
Climb the tricky and bold arete to the shelf then escape left along it and up a short wall.
 VS 4c
3
Magog
Up the left-hand angle of the recess then access the shelf with difficulty. Finish up the mean leaning fissure above.
 
Strong
Graunchy
HVS 5b
4
Gog
Reach the top of the arete from under the roof on the left and continue up slabby rock above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS 4c
5
Ladder Gully
A slippery start to easy ground, often very green and gungy.
2 user comments
 Diff
6
Connolly's Variation
A left-hand exit grovel is possible though the cliff to a slab.
 
Graunchy
Diff
7
Recurring Nightmare
The short rib to the right of the gully to a high scary crux.
 
1 Stars
E5 6b
8
Macleod's Crack
The crack has an awkward slippery start but eases rapidly.
3 user comments
 
Graunchy
HVD 4a
9
Lapwing Variation
Once past the crux a nice finish up the right wall is possible.
 S 4a
10
Crikey!
Climb direct up the book-end aretes to a scary slap for a big hole. Finish up and left. Fade Away, E1 6a reaches the same hole...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6a
11
Fade Away
Reach the same hole as Crikey, starting from Dowel Crack and moving up and then left.
 E1 6a
12
Dowel Crack
The tough crack to the right of the prow to a hard exit. The piece of dowel once used as a runner(!) has long gone.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5a
13
The Iron Hand
Starting from a block, climb the short awkward crack/groove.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
S 4b
14
Vulcan
Access a ledge with difficulty then finish up the crack.
1 user comment
 
Technical
HVD 4a
15
Pollux
The left-hand crack-line is almost always dirty.
 HS 4c
16
Castor
The right-hand crack has some solid jamming.
 HS 4b
17
Movie Star
Swing onto the arete, then move left and right to finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
18
Surprise
The left-hand groove gets harder with height. Beware that the wobbly chockstone doesn't give you a surprise.
1 user comment
 
Loose
S 4a
19
Pythagoras
The tricky right-hand groove is usually dirty.
1 user comment
 HS 4b
20
The Big Dipper
The rambling ridge is delicate and a little bold. From a tricky start ramble over blocks and up a rib to the moor.
 S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

    Life Assurance
    "First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

    Equilibrium
    "I had some spare time after doing the boggart , so I tried the start. Couldnt ge..." 20/Sep

    Nathaniel
    "Nasty. Tape up well!" 13/May

    Byne's Crack
    "Felt pretty tough for VS 4B not sure if that's cause it's a while since I've led..." 09/Dec

    The Boggart
    "easier to solo but still 6b. really interesting tenuous moves." 06/Nov

    Triglyph
    "A nice little route, awkward to get into the sentry box, but once you do its all..." 23/Jul

    Life Assurance
    "I took the fall from the crux, and was completely fine! I wasn't very close to t..." 21/Jun

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