Dowel Crack

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
Uphill
20 mins

The central section of the cliff has a series of small buttresses split by some meaty cracks. Although first appearances may leave you rather under-whelmed there are some good climbs across the grades, worth a visit when a cool venue is required. The area is green once the autumnal rains start and stays that way into the spring. Guidebook page 226.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Captain Sensible
8m. Thin cracks in the north-facing slab are usually a bit green.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
2
Slow Ledge
8m. Climb the arete to the shelf then escape left along the shelf.
 VS 4c
3
Magog
8m. Up the left-hand angle of the recess then use the wide crack to access the shelf with Diculty. Finish up the mean fissure.
 
Strong
Graunchy
HVS 5b
4
Gog Arete
The short arete gives a nice little problem. Gog, HS reaches the top of the arete from the cut-away and continues above.
 V0 5a
5
Ladder Rib
The right-hand side of the slabby arete. On its left is V0 (5a).
 
1 Stars
V3 6a
6
Ladder Gully
8m. A slippery start. A left-hand grovel is possible.
1 user comment
 D
7
Recurring Nightmare
8m. The rib to the right of the gully to a high scary crux.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
8
Macleod's Crack
8m. The crack has an awkward start but eases rapidly. A finish up the right wall is also possible at S 4a - Lapwing Variation.
3 user comments
 HVD 4a
9
Crikey!
8m. Climb direct up the book-end aretes to a scary slap for a big hole. Finish up and left.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6a
10
Fade Away
Reach the same hole as Crikey, starting from Dowel Crack and moving up and then left.
 E1 6a
11
Dowel Crack
8m. The tough crack to the right of the prow. The piece of dowel is still in place though its use as a runner is not...
 
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVS 5a
12
The Iron Hand
8m. Starting from a block, climb the short awkward groove.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
S 4b
13
Vulcan
8m. Gain the groove from the right and finish direct.
 VD 4a
14
Pollux
8m. The left-hand crack-line is almost always dirty - pity.
 HS 4c
15
Castor
8m. The right-hand crack has some solid jamming.
 
Pumpy
HS 4b
16
Movie Star
8m. Swing onto the arete, then move left and right to finish.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS 5a
17
Surprise
6m. The left-hand groove gets harder with height.
 
Loose
HVD 4a
18
Pythagoras
6m. The right-hand groove is usually dirty.
 
Reachy
S 4b
19
The Big Dipper
16m. Starting down to the right, climb over a block, then up a rib to a final crack. Lacking in good protection.
 S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

    Life Assurance
    "First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

    Samson
    "it looks so much easier on hard grit..." 20/Sep

    Nathaniel
    "Nasty. Tape up well!" 13/May

    Byne's Crack
    "Felt pretty tough for VS 4B not sure if that's cause it's a while since I've led..." 09/Dec

    The Boggart
    "easier to solo but still 6b. really interesting tenuous moves." 06/Nov

    Guppy Arete
    "The description of this in the Peak Bouldering guide is a way overgraded 7a+ (pr..." 19/Aug

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