Dowel Crack

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The central section of the cliff has a series of small walls split by some short and meaty cracks. It looks rather under-whelming but there are some decent climbs across the grades. The area is green after any rain and throughout any normal winter.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Captain Sensible
Thin cracks in the north-facing slab - usually a bit green.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
2
Fast Ledge
The wall past a sloping ledge
 
Technical
f6B
3
Slow Ledge
Climb the tricky and bold arete to the shelf then escape left along it and up a short wall.
 VS 4c
4
Magog
Up the left-hand angle of the recess then access the shelf with difficulty. Finish up the mean leaning fissure above.
 
Strong
Graunchy
HVS 5b
5
Gog
Reach the top of the arete from under the roof on the left and continue up slabby rock above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS 4c
6
Gog Arete
The short arete gives a nice little problem.
1 user comment
 f4+
7
Ladder Rib
The left-hand side of the same slabby arete. It is slightly harder on its right-hand side.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
f6A+
8
Ladder Gully
A slippery start to easy ground, often very green and gungy.
2 user comments
 D
9
Connolly's Variation
A left-hand exit grovel is possible though the cliff to a slab.
 
Graunchy
D
10
Recurring Nightmare
The short rib to the right of the gully to a high scary crux.
 
1 Stars
E5 6b
11
Macleod's Crack
The crack has an awkward slippery start but eases rapidly.
3 user comments
 
Graunchy
HVD 4a
12
Lapwing Variation
Once past the crux a nice finish up the right wall is possible.
 S 4a
13
Crikey!
Climb direct up the book-end aretes to a scary slap for a big hole. Finish up and left. Fade Away, E1 6a reaches the same hole...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6a
14
Fade Away
Reach the same hole as Crikey, starting from Dowel Crack and moving up and then left.
 E1 6a
15
Dowel Crack
The tough crack to the right of the prow to a hard exit. The piece of dowel once used as a runner(!) has long gone.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5a
16
The Iron Hand
Starting from a block, climb the short awkward crack/groove.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
S 4b
17
Vulcan
Access a ledge with difficulty then finish up the crack.
1 user comment
 
Technical
HVD 4a
18
Pollux
The left-hand crack-line is almost always dirty.
 HS 4c
19
Castor
The right-hand crack has some solid jamming.
 HS 4b
20
Movie Star
Swing onto the arete, then move left and right to finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
21
Surprise
The left-hand groove gets harder with height. Beware that the wobbly chockstone doesn't give you a surprise.
1 user comment
 
Loose
S 4a
22
Pythagoras
The tricky right-hand groove is usually dirty.
1 user comment
 HS 4b
23
The Big Dipper
The rambling ridge is delicate and a little bold. From a tricky start ramble over blocks and up a rib to the moor.
 S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Pebble Mill Traverse
    "Changed from f7A+ 6c * to f7A+ *, no votes" 23/Mar

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

    Life Assurance
    "First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

    Samson
    "it looks so much easier on hard grit..." 20/Sep

    Nathaniel
    "Nasty. Tape up well!" 13/May

    Byne's Crack
    "Felt pretty tough for VS 4B not sure if that's cause it's a while since I've led..." 09/Dec

    The Boggart
    "easier to solo but still 6b. really interesting tenuous moves." 06/Nov

    Guppy Arete
    "The description of this in the Peak Bouldering guide is a way overgraded 7a+ (pr..." 19/Aug

    Triglyph
    "A nice little route, awkward to get into the sentry box, but once you do its all..." 23/Jul

    Life Assurance
    "I took the fall from the crux, and was completely fine! I wasn't very close to t..." 21/Jun

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