Adjacent Areas
< The Boggart and Byne's Crack | Nosferatu >
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Evening sun
Uphill
20 minsWindy
The central section of the cliff has a series of small buttresses split by some meaty cracks. Although first appearances may leave you rather under-whelmed there are some good climbs across the grades, worth a visit when a cool venue is required. The area is green once the autumnal rains start and stays that way into the spring. Guidebook page 226.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Captain Sensible 8m. Thin cracks in the north-facing slab are usually a bit green. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
2 |
Slow Ledge 8m. Climb the arete to the shelf then escape left along the shelf. | VS 4c | |
3 |
Magog 8m. Up the left-hand angle of the recess then use the wide crack to access the shelf with Diculty. Finish up the mean fissure. | Strong Graunchy | HVS 5b |
4 |
Gog Arete The short arete gives a nice little problem. Gog, HS reaches the top of the arete from the cut-away and continues above. | V0 5a | |
5 |
Ladder Rib The right-hand side of the slabby arete. On its left is V0 (5a). | 1 Stars | V3 6a |
6 |
Ladder Gully 8m. A slippery start. A left-hand grovel is possible. 1 user comment | D | |
7 |
Recurring Nightmare 8m. The rib to the right of the gully to a high scary crux. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E5 6b |
8 |
Macleod's Crack 8m. The crack has an awkward start but eases rapidly. A finish up the right wall is also possible at S 4a - Lapwing Variation. 3 user comments | HVD 4a | |
9 |
Crikey! 8m. Climb direct up the book-end aretes to a scary slap for a big hole. Finish up and left. | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6a |
10 |
Fade Away Reach the same hole as Crikey, starting from Dowel Crack and moving up and then left. | E1 6a | |
11 |
Dowel Crack 8m. The tough crack to the right of the prow. The piece of dowel is still in place though its use as a runner is not... | Pumpy Graunchy | HVS 5a |
12 |
The Iron Hand 8m. Starting from a block, climb the short awkward groove. 1 user comment | Graunchy | S 4b |
13 |
Vulcan 8m. Gain the groove from the right and finish direct. | VD 4a | |
14 |
Pollux 8m. The left-hand crack-line is almost always dirty - pity. | HS 4c | |
15 |
Castor 8m. The right-hand crack has some solid jamming. | Pumpy | HS 4b |
16 |
Movie Star 8m. Swing onto the arete, then move left and right to finish. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | HVS 5a |
17 |
Surprise 6m. The left-hand groove gets harder with height. | Loose | HVD 4a |
18 |
Pythagoras 6m. The right-hand groove is usually dirty. | Reachy | S 4b |
19 |
The Big Dipper 16m. Starting down to the right, climb over a block, then up a rib to a final crack. Lacking in good protection. | S 4a | |
