Pylon Buttress and Scarlett's

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
15 mins

A well-cracked buttress that was capped with a pylon for many years - only a short stump now remains. It has a reasonable collection of easier climbs. Plus a fine square pillar home to one of Harry Scarlett's original bold (pumped in pumps!) offerings from the 1930s and a few more modern routes. The climbs tend to be reachy and fingery and, as is often the case with Wharncliffe, protection is not especially generous. Guidebook page 44.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pylon Corner
8m. A short angular groove on the left has its moments.
 D
2
Pylon Crack
8m. The steep narrow crack in the centre of the north face.
2 user comments
 VD
3
Quern Crack
8m. The steeper fissure just to the right to an awkward exit.
1 user comment
 S 4a
4
Jimmy Puttrell is a Legend
10m. The arete leads to the direct finish to Hamletís Climb.
 VS 4c
5
Hamlet's Climb
10m. Climb the steep crack in the left-hand side of the buttress to a notch then escape leftwards across to Pylon Crack.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD 4a
6
Requiem of Hamlet's Ghost
10m. Steeply climb the face between the two cracks on poor holds past a series of overlaps.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
7
The Crack of Doom
10m. The steep awkward off-width was a good effort for its day.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
8
Despair
10m. Climb the steep pillar on the right-hand side of the buttress, passing a low roof.
1 user comment
 E2 5c
9
Chockstone Climb
8m. Follow the easy groove on the right then move left to the chockstoned crack.
1 user comment
 D
10
Earth Blues
8m. Trend left to the break, move left and layback the arete!
 
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
11
Scarlett's Wall Arete
10m. The arete is reachy and not too well protected.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
VS 4c
12
Scarlett's Climb
10m. Climb the centre of the wall on flaky holds to a stretchy finish - harder for the short.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
HS 4c
13
The Scarlett Letter
10m. The right arete eases with height.
 
Reachy
Fluttery
VS 4b
14
Scarlett's Chimney
8m. The chimney starts off okay then fizzles out a bit.
 D
  • Latest Comments

    For WHARNCLIFFE

    Just a Minute
    "Have to disagree with just about all of the above. It's certainly not 'hopeless'..." 10/May

    The Crack of Doom
    "I'm a little bulky through the shoulder and chest, I can get one shoulder in and..." 30/Mar

    Sidewinder
    "Not that reachy - my partner is fairly short but had no problem reaching the top..." 06/Aug

    Cannae
    "The other good, non-eliminate, non-wandering line on here, when finished up the ..." 05/May

    Great Buttress
    "The line as described in PGE (I was using the first edition) is clearly wrong. ..." 06/Apr

    The Flue
    "Only hard bit is getting into sentry box. Then a fun squirm. Hard Diff?" 02/Apr

    Desolation Angel
    "agree with all above. looks harder than it is. i would probably say E5, compared..." 13/Mar

    Scarlett's Wall Arete
    "Nice face climbing." 27/Oct

    Rook Chimney
    "A bit polished lower down and not a smooth climb i.e. bitty!" 26/Oct

    Banana Wall
    "agree with brown. E2 5c/6a depending on reach." 19/Oct

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