White House Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Birch Buttress  |  Kremlin Krack >

Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill
12 mins
Sheltered

A secluded buttress with ten routes, a mixture of good old fashioned crack climbs and much more modern stuff up the blank faces and aretes in between. Currently the routes don't see much traffic so the crag tends to be rather green. This is one of the most sheltered buttresses on the whole cliff. Guidebook page 59.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Red's Slab
12m. Climb the awkward lower arete then move right and balance up the centre of the face. A sling on the stump up and left is...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HS 3c
2
We're Only Here for the Smear
12m. Start up the arete then balance out right along the lip to a finger hold and friction up to the midway ledge. Finish...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5b
3
White House Crack
12m. Climb onto the ledge then continue via a good old-fashioned battle (old clothes are best). A worthwhile route that would...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
4
The President's Crack
14m. The wide and widening crack is an awkward and precarious struggle, though a chockstone thread offers protection. Not bad...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5b
5
Milena
14m. Above Senatorís Gully is a hanging arete. Climb this by desperate pebble pulling, smearing and slapping to a grim mantel...
 
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
6
Senator's Gully
14m. The deep chimney leads to a ledge. If this is damp the groove on the left and a short traverse right offers an...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
7
Money For Old Rope
8m. The narrow wall to the right. Start at the obvious slot near the left arete. Boulder up to a slopey break (gear on the...
 
Technical
E2 6b
8
Stealing the Misanthrope's Wallet
8m. The blunt arete of the buttress past a series of rounded breaks. Soon the good holds on Ray Crack are unavoidable.
 
Technical
HVS 6a
9
Ray Crack
8m. The short crack is more awkward than it looks.
 VS 5a
10
Parallel Universe
8m. The wall to the right is climbed on a poor collection of blind pockets and rounded slopers.
 
Technical
Rounded
E3 6b
11
Ukase
8m. The tiny rib on the right is almost always dirty.
 VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For RIVELIN

    April Fool
    "Line in the Fax guide seems too far left, ignore this? Protectable enough with s..." 09/Mar

    Altar Crack
    "What you see is what you get! A full on layback well beyond the easy gear. Eith..." 05/Mar

    Crack One
    "easy low down, felt hard at the top, the loose jug doesnt help. Harder than S4a" 03/Mar

    Croton Oil
    "Quite committing near the top, but some nice gear in the slightly smooth cracks...." 29/Jan top50

    Croton Oil
    "just wish it had scraped into K Wilsons hard rock because it is just as good as ..." 09/Jan top50

    Oversight
    "I agree: somewhere in between VS 4c & the Severe 4a it gets on the UKC datab..." 09/Jan

    Easy Picking
    "I think the start can be done at 6a (I did a more obvious but 6b method on the l..." 06/Nov

    Easy Picking
    "Great little route, full on E2!" 29/Oct

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