Adjacent Areas
< Birch Buttress | Kremlin Krack >
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Lots of sun!
Uphill
12 minsA secluded buttress with ten routes, a mixture of good old fashioned crack climbs and much more modern stuff up the blank faces and aretes in between. Currently the routes don't see much traffic so the crag tends to be rather green. This is one of the most sheltered buttresses on the whole cliff. Guidebook page 59.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Red's Slab 12m. Climb the awkward lower arete then move right and balance up the centre of the face. A sling on the stump up and left is... | 1 Stars Fluttery | HS 3c |
2 |
We're Only Here for the Smear 12m. Start up the arete then balance out right along the lip to a finger hold and friction up to the midway ledge. Finish... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5b |
3 |
White House Crack 12m. Climb onto the ledge then continue via a good old-fashioned battle (old clothes are best). A worthwhile route that would... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | S 4a |
4 |
The President's Crack 14m. The wide and widening crack is an awkward and precarious struggle, though a chockstone thread offers protection. Not bad... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Graunchy | HVS 5b |
5 |
Milena 14m. Above Senator’s Gully is a hanging arete. Climb this by desperate pebble pulling, smearing and slapping to a grim mantel... | Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
6 |
Senator's Gully 14m. The deep chimney leads to a ledge. If this is damp the groove on the left and a short traverse right offers an... | 1 Stars | S 4a |
7 |
Money For Old Rope 8m. The narrow wall to the right. Start at the obvious slot near the left arete. Boulder up to a slopey break (gear on the... | Technical | E2 6b |
8 |
Stealing the Misanthrope's Wallet 8m. The blunt arete of the buttress past a series of rounded breaks. Soon the good holds on Ray Crack are unavoidable. | Technical | HVS 6a |
9 |
Ray Crack 8m. The short crack is more awkward than it looks. | VS 5a | |
10 |
Parallel Universe 8m. The wall to the right is climbed on a poor collection of blind pockets and rounded slopers. | Technical Rounded | E3 6b |
11 |
Ukase 8m. The tiny rib on the right is almost always dirty. | VS 4c | |
