White House Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Birch Buttress  |  Kremlin Krack >

Trad
Sun and Shade
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

A secluded buttress with a mixture of old fashioned crack climbs and more modern stuff up the blank faces and aretes in between. Currently the routes don't see much traffic so everything tends to be rather green. This is one of the most sheltered buttresses on the whole cliff.
Approach (see map on page 78) - From Kremlin Krack area, a vague path leads leftwards though the trees to the buttress which is well hidden in the trees.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Red's Slab
Climb the awkward lower arete to ledges then move right and balance up the centre of the face. Sticking with the arete is...
2 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
VS
2
We're Only Here for the Smear
Start up the arete then balance out right along the lip to a finger-hold and friction up to the midway ledge. Finish easily....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3
3
White House Crack
Climb onto the ledge then continue via a good old fashioned thrash. A worthwhile route that would benefit from more traffic.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S
4
The President's Crack
The wide and widening crack is an awkward and precarious struggle, though a chockstone thread offers protection. Not bad for a...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS
5
Milena
Above Senator's Gully is this wild hanging arete. Climb it by desperate pebble pulling and smearing to a grim mantel.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Fluttery
E6
6
Senator's Gully
The deep, gloomy rift leads to a ledge. From the ledge (possible stance) a tricky move on small footholds leads to easy ground.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S
7
Money For Old Rope
The narrow wall to the right. From the left arete link a sloping break, a left-trending seam and the obvious ramp. Reachy.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Technical
E2
8
Stealing the Misanthrope's Wallet
8m. The blunt arete of the buttress past a series of rounded breaks. Soon the good holds on Ray Crack are unavoidable.
 
Technical
HVS 6a
9
Ray Crack
The short crack past a creaky flake is more awkward than it looks. The blunt arete just left is Stealing the Misanthrope's...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS
10
Parallel Universe
The wall on blind pockets and poor slopers. f6B+ above pads.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Rounded
E3
11
Ukase
The tiny rib on the right is almost always dirty.
1 user comment
 VS
  • Latest Comments

    For RIVELIN

    Jonad Rib
    "If you have microcams HS 4a, if not HVS 4a? No other proper gear till 3/4 way up..." 27/May

    April Fool
    "Line in the Fax guide seems too far left, ignore this? Protectable enough with s..." 09/Mar

    Altar Crack
    "What you see is what you get! A full on layback well beyond the easy gear. Eith..." 05/Mar

    Crack One
    "easy low down, felt hard at the top, the loose jug doesnt help. Harder than S4a" 03/Mar

    Croton Oil
    "Quite committing near the top, but some nice gear in the slightly smooth cracks...." 29/Jan top50

    Croton Oil
    "just wish it had scraped into K Wilsons hard rock because it is just as good as ..." 09/Jan top50

    Oversight
    "I agree: somewhere in between VS 4c & the Severe 4a it gets on the UKC datab..." 09/Jan

    Easy Picking
    "I think the start can be done at 6a (I did a more obvious but 6b method on the l..." 06/Nov

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