White House Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Birch Buttress  |  Kremlin Krack >

Trad
Early morning sun
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

A secluded buttress with a mixture of old fashioned crack climbs and more modern stuff up the blank faces and aretes in between. Currently the routes don't see much traffic so everything tends to be rather green. This is one of the most sheltered buttresses on the whole cliff.
Approach (see map on page 78) - From Kremlin Krack area, a vague path leads leftwards though the trees to the buttress which is well hidden in the trees.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Red's Slab
Climb the awkward lower arete to ledges then move right and balance up the centre of the face. Sticking with the arete is...
2 user comments
 VS
2
We're Only Here for the Smear
Start up the arete then balance out right along the lip to a finger-hold and friction up to the midway ledge. Finish easily....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
E3
3
White House Crack
Climb onto the ledge then continue via a good old fashioned thrash. A worthwhile route that would benefit from more traffic.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S
4
The President's Crack
The wide and widening crack is an awkward and precarious struggle, though a chockstone thread offers protection. Not bad for a...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS
5
Milena
Above Senator's Gully is this wild hanging arete. Climb it by desperate pebble pulling and smearing to a grim mantel.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E6
6
Senator's Gully
The deep, gloomy rift leads to a ledge. From the ledge (possible stance) a tricky move on small footholds leads to easy ground.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S
7
Money For Old Rope
The narrow wall to the right. From the left arete link a sloping break, a left-trending seam and the obvious ramp. Reachy.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E2
8
Stealing the Misanthrope's Wallet
8m. The blunt arete of the buttress past a series of rounded breaks. Soon the good holds on Ray Crack are unavoidable.
 
Technical
HVS 6a
9
Ray Crack
The short crack past a creaky flake is more awkward than it looks. The blunt arete just left is Stealing the Misanthrope's...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS
10
Parallel Universe
The wall on blind pockets and poor slopers. f6B+ above pads.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E3
11
Ukase
The tiny rib on the right is almost always dirty.
1 user comment
 VS