Back Tor

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
30 mins
Uphill

To the north of Dovestone Tor, the flagged path rises steadily up toward the conspicuous trig point on the rocky crest of Back Tor at 538m - a magnificent viewpoint. There is worthwhile scrambling and bouldering all over the summit area, though the recognised routes are on a small west-facing outcrop just to the south. The rock is of good quality though it tends to be green after rain. Also, extensive pools form under the crag, forming a potential SWS spot.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mertle
The left side of the wall on green slopers.
 
Rounded
VS 5b
2
Voice of the Turtle
The centre of the north-facing wall on rounded green holds.
 
Rounded
HVS 5b
3
Broggin Wall
The pleasant flake near the right edge of the face.
 S 4a
4
Turtle Rib
Climb the front face of the blunt rib using an array of pockets, the bulge is tricky.
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
5
Turtle Chimney
The awkward narrowing black gritty rift.
 
Graunchy
VD
6
Terrapin
A worthwhile pitch heading right up the side-wall via a short crack and rounded holds. Exit to the right.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HS 4c
7
The Bone Cruncher
The low level traverse is stern test of stamina. Hands go in the holes and on the crimps, keep your feet of anything large.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
V8 7B
8
ET
With hands in the holes, pull up the bulge.
 
Technical
V3 6A+
9
Hoplite
Climb the blunt rib to the break, graunch right the do battle with the hanging nose - grotesque! The start is a V2 5c problem.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
Graunchy
E4 6b
10
Hueco Wall
Using two holes right of the arete, pull desperately up the face.
 
Technical
V5 6C
11
Eyes Without a Face
Climb the wall past some pockets.
 
Technical
V6 7A
12
Spartan
The main roof crack is a mini-classic and a tough tussle for most. Fortunately the landing is soft, even without a mat....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
E1 5c
13
Tortoise
The right-hand roof crack is easier - but not much!
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS 5b
14
Hare
The short wall to the right starting from a block. The low start is Codfinger, V5 6C starting from the back and reaching out.
 HS 4b
15
Grouse Related Nonsense
The short arete that bounds the wall.
 VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONE TOR

    Great Buttress
    "Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I..." 05/Oct top50

    Mock Turtle
    "i don't know if this is the same route i did with Chris Rhoads and Anthony Addis..." 13/Apr

    Sforzando
    "Crosses overhang from jams via a small fingerhold and toe locks to reach a flake..." 23/Feb

    Stingray
    "The crack was ok (I've got big hands but my partner is normal-to-small!), but fo..." 04/Sep

    Tight 'uns
    "The loose block is no longer there - beware of the rubble left on the ledge." 14/Jun

    Iltis
    "Quite stiff for HS 4b, if you can't reach the jugs from below (neither I nor my ..." 28/Jul

    Stingray
    "Another Chris Craggs jamming crack - maybe for future guides you could take some..." 17/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "In reply to Duz Walker, I jammed and swung left to get left knee (it is grit aft..." 10/Sep

    Iltis
    "Mammoth blind reach required to good hold/bucket. I couldn't reach it until I'd ..." 03/Sep

    The Shylock Finish
    "Is the intention to traverse footless all the way to the sloping nose? Or do you..." 14/Jun

    Granny Smith
    "Looks horrendous- even at the BMC guide grade of E2 5c. Dont know where the good..." 04/Jun

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