Adjacent Areas
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To the north of Dovestone Tor, the flagged path rises steadily up toward the conspicuous trig point on the rocky crest of Back Tor at 538m - a magnificent viewpoint. There is worthwhile scrambling and bouldering all over the summit area, though the recognised routes are on a small west-facing outcrop just to the south. The rock is of good quality though it tends to be green after rain. Also, extensive pools form under the crag, forming a potential SWS spot. Guidebook page 73.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Voice of the Turtle 8m. The centre of the north-facing wall on rounded green holds. | Rounded | HVS 5a |
2 |
Broggin Wall 8m. The pleasant flake near the right edge of the face. | S 4a | |
3 |
Turtle Rib 8m. Climb the front of the blunt rib using an array of pockets, ensuring not to disturb the turtle. | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
4 |
Turtle Chimney 8m. The black gritty rift. | VD | |
5 |
Terrapin 8m. A worthwhile pitch heading right up the side wall via a short crack and rounded holds. Exit to the right. | 1 Stars | HS 4c |
6 |
The Bone Cruncher The low level traverse is stern test of stamina. Hands go in the holes and on the crimps, keep your feet off anything large. | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | V8 6b |
7 |
ET With hands in the holes, pull up the bulge. | Technical | V3 6a |
8 |
Hoplite 8m. Climb the blunt rib to the break, graunch right then do battle with the hanging nose - grotesque! | 1 Stars Pumpy Rounded Graunchy | E4 6b |
9 |
Hueco Wall Using 2 holes 2m right of the arete, pull desperately up the face. | Technical | V6 6b |
10 |
Spartan 8m. The main roof crack is a mini-classic and a tough tussle for all but the strong. Fortunately the landing is soft. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong Graunchy | E1 5c |
11 |
Tortoise 10m. The right-hand roof crack is easier - but not much! | 1 Stars Technical | HS 5b |
