Twin Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Crow Chin  |  Meson >

Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill
Windy

A neglected buttress with some interesting climbs. None of them is outstanding but ,together with the adjacent Meson Buttress, offer something for the connoisseur. The out-of-the-way nature partly explains why the grades here have always been stiff and the routes remain a bit gritty.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pull and Step
The left arete is awkward to access. Probably a move of 4a.
 VD
2
Undercut Crack
The hanging right-hand crack requires a heave-ho or two. The left one gives an easier option - Straight Variation, S 4b.
 
Strong
Graunchy
VS 5a
3
Bottomless Crack
The central crack is reached by a short hand-traverse.
 
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVS 5a
4
Cutunder Crack
Reach the hanging crack by a hard double mantel.
 
Bumstart
V1 5b
5
Bottomless Crack Direct
Reach the hanging crack by a hard double mantel.
 V1 5b
6
Lysteria Hysteria
A reachy and rounded route that was originally started from the right. The start is a V2 5c problem.
 
Reachy
Rounded
E3 6a
7
Certainly Parakeratosis
The right arete of the buttress leads to a slanting crack.
 
Rounded
E1 5b
8
Bow Crack
An awkward lower corner and jamming cracks above.
 
1 Stars
VD
9
Frank Sinatra
The steep cracks lead to a ledge. Move round right to finish.
 
Pumpy
HS 4c
10
Seranata
The centre of the right-hand buttress has a tricky start leading to a taxing rounded finish. The start is a V2 5c problem.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E2 5c
11
Hardly Hyperkeratosis
The right arete of the right twin offers more rounded reachy fun.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E2 5c
12
Quadrille
The narrow awkward groove just round the arete.
 
Technical
S 4a
13
Twin Set
The short crack just right.
 VD
14
Th'ickle Buttress
The neat 'ikkle buttress across the gully, climbed left then right.
 
Technical
VS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

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