Twin Buttress and Meson

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
25 mins
Uphill

A couple of neglected buttresses with some worthwhile climbs. The out-of-the-way nature partly explains why the grades have always been stiff. Guidebook page 111.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Undercut Crack
8m. The right-hand crack on the left is tricky to access.
 
Strong
Graunchy
VS 5a
2
Bottomless Crack
10m. The central crack is reached by a short hand traverse.
 
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVS 5a
3
Bottomless Crack Direct
8m. Reach the hanging crack by a hard double mantel.
 
1 Stars
HVS 6a
4
Certainly Parakeratosis
8m. The right arete of the buttress leads to a slanting crack.
 
Rounded
E1 5b
5
Bow Crack
8m. An awkward lower corner and jamming cracks above.
 VD
6
Seranata
8m. The centre of the right-hand buttress to a desperate finish.
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
Rounded
E2 5c
7
Hardly Hyperkeratosis
8m. The right arete of the right twin offers more rounded fun.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
E2 5c
8
Quadrille
8m. The narrow groove is reached via the short arete.
 S 4a
9
Graviton
10m. The centre of the face via two monstrous mantels.
2 user comments
 HVS 5c
10
Meson
10m. Weave up the face to a steep exit.
1 user comment
 VD 4a
11
Lepton
10m. Climb the slab, arete and ensuing crack.
 
Reachy
HS 4b
12
Bandits in the Woods
10m. Follow the thin crack to a roof and tough exit.
1 user comment
 
Technical
HVS 5a
13
Spectacle
10m. Mantel onto the slab and bridge the groove.
 
Technical
S 4c
14
Side Effect
10m. The right arete of the recess has a harrowing exit.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE HIGH NEB

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "This route, if you start left of inaccessible crack, is 'Love of my knife'.It go..." 23/Jul

    Norse Corner Climb
    "Bit of a tricky start (fell on my back after a slip low down!) that leads into a..." 13/Jun

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