Emperor Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Oak Tree Climb  |  None >

Trad
No sun
0 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

The final buttress has some pleasant, if grunty, low and mid-grade climbs that follow great lines, plus the popular problem of Desperot. A good place to escape the crowds, though be warned it can be terminally green after rain.
Approach (see map on page 494) - Follow a small path from below Vibrio Buttress for about 70m through the trees. This path can be almost completely overgrown in the summer.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Emperor Flake Climb
Climb the left arete of the buttress, then follow flaky cracks on the left-hand wall as they lead back right to an exposed...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
2
Emperor Crack
The long crack in the left-hand side of the face is hard work where it splits the roof. A classic struggle, though a sneaky...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS
3
The Tyrant
From a short distance up Emperor Crack, move right and climb the left-hand side of the central face. A bit of an eliminate.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E2
4
Desperot
Bizarrely, one of the most popular routes on the cliff and well named too. If successful, escape rightwards along the break.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
f7A+
5
Despot
From a short way up Empress Crack, follow the low break out onto the wall. Make a hard move to the next break then climb the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
6
Empress Crack
The long crack on the right-hand side of the wall is enjoyable. It gives bridging and jamming with a tough crux and steep...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
S
7
Princess Crack
The short blocky crack leads to the 'Royal Seat'. The easiest escape is back the way you came!
1 user comment
 D
8
Prince's Crack
From a roofed-in alcove, move left to access the 'Royal Seat' then finish up the steep groove behind. A compelling line.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS
9
Up the Establishment
Bomb up the slanting flake to reach the arete with difficulty. Once established, climb the left-hand side of it by neat moves...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1
10
Anarchist's Arete
Climb the groove on the right then teeter left along the break - tricky for the short - to an exposed finish up the cracked...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
11
Emperor's Struggle
The final corner crack is a bit of an awkward thrash despite the generally good holds
 
1 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
S
  • Latest Comments

    For CHATSWORTH

    Desperot
    "Changed from f7C * to f7A+ **, 0% of 1 vote for f7A+, 0% of 1 vote for **" 23/Mar

    Desperot
    "A 3* Font 7a in reality, and almost always dry when the rest of the peak is gopp..." 25/Aug

    Emperor Crack
    "Defiantly best to stay on the outside but the pro isn't great and looking at a f..." 15/Mar

    Mort Wall
    "Very green looking at the mo, but clean enough where it mattered. Not a bad rou..." 18/Oct

    Sentinel Crack
    "Went to Chatsworth with the intention of doing this and puppet crack today. Both..." 29/Aug

    Mort Wall
    "Went left out of niche, getting back into main flake/crack was awkward and off b..." 21/Jul

    Tree Crack
    "Cleaned again for summer 2009. Quality! It deserves one star for those who strug..." 08/Apr

    Pearls
    "Was probably just having a good day, but thought this was really straight forwar..." 17/Jul

    Search for comments