Adjacent Areas
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Evening sun
Up and Down
12 minsThe final buttress has some pleasant, if graunchy, low and mid grade climbs and the world class problem of Desperot. A good place to escape the crowds though be warned it can be terminally green and slimy. Guidebook page 353.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Emperor Flake Climb 12m. Climb the left arete of the buttress, then follow flaky cracks on the left-hand wall as they lead back right to an exposed... 4 user comments | 2 Stars | VD |
2 |
Emperor Crack 14m. The long crack in the left-hand side of the face is hard work where it splits the roof; a classic struggle. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4b |
3 |
The Tyrant 14m. From a short distance up Emperor Crack move right and climb the left-hand side of the central face. A bit of an eliminate. 1 user comment | Technical | E2 5c |
4 |
Desperot 6m. The direct start to Despot is well named. In the unlikely event of being successful, escape rightwards from the break. The... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | V9 |
5 |
Despot 14m. From a short way up Empress Crack follow the lowest break out left onto the wall. Make a hard move to reach the next break... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy | E1 5c |
6 |
Empress Crack 14m. The long groove bounding the right-hand side of the wall is enjoyable, giving pleasant laybacking with an awkward crux. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | S 4b |
7 |
Princess Crack 6m. The short blocky crack leads to the "Royal Seat". The easiest escape is back the way you came! | D | |
8 |
Prince's Crack 14m. From a roofed-in alcove move left to access the ‘Royal Seat’ then finish up the steep groove behind and right. 5 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
9 |
Up the Establishment 12m. Bomb up the slanting flake to reach the arete with difficulty. Climb the left-hand side of it in an exposed position. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
10 |
Anarchist's Arete 12m. Climb the groove on the right then traverse left along the break to an exposed finish up the arete. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
11 |
Emperor's Struggle 12m. The final corner-crack is a bit of a thrash. The burgeoning holly continues to impinge. | 1 Stars Strong | S 4a |