Emperor Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
12 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

The final buttress has some pleasant, if graunchy, low and mid grade climbs and the world class problem of Desperot. A good place to escape the crowds though be warned it can be terminally green and slimy.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Emperor Flake Climb
12m. Climb the left arete of the buttress, then follow flaky cracks on the left-hand wall as they lead back right to an exposed...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
2
Emperor Crack
14m. The long crack in the left-hand side of the face is hard work where it splits the roof; a classic struggle.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
3
The Tyrant
14m. From a short distance up Emperor Crack move right and climb the left-hand side of the central face. A bit of an eliminate.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E2 5c
4
Desperot
6m. The direct start to Despot is well named. In the unlikely event of being successful, escape rightwards from the break. The...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
V9 7C
5
Despot
14m. From a short way up Empress Crack follow the lowest break out left onto the wall. Make a hard move to reach the next break...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1 5c
6
Empress Crack
14m. The long groove bounding the right-hand side of the wall is enjoyable, giving pleasant laybacking with an awkward crux.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
S 4b
7
Princess Crack
6m. The short blocky crack leads to the "Royal Seat". The easiest escape is back the way you came!
 D
8
Prince's Crack
14m. From a roofed-in alcove move left to access the ‘Royal Seat’ then finish up the steep groove behind and right.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
9
Up the Establishment
12m. Bomb up the slanting flake to reach the arete with difficulty. Climb the left-hand side of it in an exposed position.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
10
Anarchist's Arete
12m. Climb the groove on the right then traverse left along the break to an exposed finish up the arete.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
11
Emperor's Struggle
12m. The final corner-crack is a bit of a thrash. The burgeoning holly continues to impinge.
 
1 Stars
Strong
S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For CHATSWORTH

    Desperot
    "A 3* Font 7a in reality, and almost always dry when the rest of the peak is gopp..." 25/Aug

    Emperor Crack
    "Defiantly best to stay on the outside but the pro isn't great and looking at a f..." 15/Mar

    Mort Wall
    "Very green looking at the mo, but clean enough where it mattered. Not a bad rou..." 18/Oct

    Sentinel Crack
    "Went to Chatsworth with the intention of doing this and puppet crack today. Both..." 29/Aug

    Mort Wall
    "Went left out of niche, getting back into main flake/crack was awkward and off b..." 21/Jul

    Tree Crack
    "Cleaned again for summer 2009. Quality! It deserves one star for those who strug..." 08/Apr

    Pearls
    "Was probably just having a good day, but thought this was really straight forwar..." 17/Jul

    Mort Wall
    "Really good route worth a visit just for this. Mild for HVS, bomber wires prote..." 11/Jul

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