Cosmic Crack Area

Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

A steep overhang-peppered buttress with a good collection of routes. Although short, most of them manage to feel quite hard for the grade. To the right, Birthday Buttress has a few of neglected outings.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pulse
A short-lived crack on the far left is quite tricky if you are pure.
2 user comments
 VS 4c
2
Beanpod
The pod-shaped crack, then exit left or finish up the arete.
1 user comment
 S 4a
3
X-ray
A thin technical crack splitting the centre of the wall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HS 4b
4
Electron
Bridge the groove and crack just left of the central roofs to a perplexing exit to easy ground.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
5
Quantum Crack
Climb the buttress, passing an overhang early on, to an awkward leftwards exit under the final roof. Intimidating but not too...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
6
Cosmic Crack
The crack on the right gives good laybacking to a neat finale and is pleasantly low in the grade.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
7
Hale-Bopp
Plugs a gap though not in a hugely satisfying way.
 
Technical
Strong
E1 6a
8
Cosmos
The right arete, started from the right is nothing special!
 S 4a
9
Birthday Buttress
Hand-traverse out to the arete, climb to the ledge, then sneak around the left-hand end of the capping roof - spooky!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
10
Going Grey
A more direct version of Birthday Buttress.
 
Fluttery
HVS 5a
11
21 Today
The right arete of the buttress has a tricky start and finish.
 
Technical
Rounded
HVS 5c
12
Angel in the Stars
The right-hand side wall.
 
Technical
E1 5c
13
Life Begins at 40
The next buttress, right of a big holly, is climbed rightwards.
 HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

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