Titanic and Blockhead

Adjacent Areas
< High Neb  |  Anniversary Arete >

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Early morning sun
14 mins
Uphill
Windy

The first of a series of small but interesting buttresses lost in the wilderness between High Neb and The Long Causeway, around 180m right of High Neb. Most of the routes are worth a look and you would be unlucky to have to queue at either of the buttresses covered here.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Barmy Brian's Flake Crack
The awkward flake crack on the left.
 
Graunchy
VS
2
Gnat's Slab
Use the crack to gain a heathery ledge then take the easiest line.
1 user comment
 D
3
Gnat's Slab Direct
The centre of the slab is bold. The heather ledge is a nuisance.
 HS
4
Gnat's Slab Arete
The rib is tricky low down and poorly protected throughout.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS
5
Marie Celeste
Climb directly up the left-hand side of the face; a lonely experience and usually a bit dirty too.
 E1
6
Lusitania
Climb the gloomy groove to pass the tricky bulge. The direct finish on sloping holds is best, though some of them are rather...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
HS
7
QE2
The angular arete leads to a hanging groove. Exit right from this.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
8
Titanic
A fine little route, varied, sustained and with an exiting finish. Climb the groove then traverse right to the arete. The moves...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
9
Gypsy Moth
The tricky pocketed slab leads to the bulges, head left from here.
 
1 Stars
E1
10
Titanic Direct
Varied and excellent. Climb the right arete, then the groove of the regular route followed by the flying arete above....
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS
11
Miss World
The flaky left arete of the face leads to heather. No beauty!
1 user comment
 HS
12
Mr Universe
The centre of the face has taxing moves on tiny holds.
 
Technical
E3
13
Angus
The narrowing rift has hidden delights but helmets don't fit!
 
Graunchy
S
14
Sinew Stretch
Balance and stretch up the left arete of the block. Nice moves.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
15
Blockhead Direct
The right arete also has some lovely moves, the central crack helps with holds and maybe a runner too.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E1
16
Kryton
The arete can also be climbed on its right-hand side.
 HVS
17
Headbanger
Access the hanging book-end from the right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
18
Solomon's Seal
The centre of the wall using a poor flake. The sit-down start is Solomon Grundy, f8A.
 
2 Stars
f7C+
19
The Jester
Grab edges and go for the top. A low start is a grade harder.
 
1 Stars
f7B
20
Prairie Dog
The left-hand crack has a good finger-jam and a good runner, though using both at the same time can be tricky.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
21
Slabenger
The thin slab, avoiding the cracks.
 
1 Stars
f7A
22
Scavenger
The thin crack splitting the centre of the slab is neat.
 
1 Stars
VS
23
Scraps
The right-hand line on the slab starting up the dark streak.
 
1 Stars
VS
24
Sneaking Sally Through the Alley
Take the diagonal seam leftwards across the slab to a late crux.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Flesh and Blood
    "It has a tough finish too..." 21/Jul

    Where did my Tan Go?
    "The natural line is start on the arete, move left at the break to climb the wall..." 17/Jul

    Warm September
    "Changed from HVS 5a to VS 4c, 50% of 2 votes for VS" 18/Jun

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

    Impossible Slab
    "This route, if you start left of inaccessible crack, is 'Love of my knife'.It go..." 23/Jul

    Norse Corner Climb
    "Bit of a tricky start (fell on my back after a slip low down!) that leads into a..." 13/Jun

    Fate
    "I'm 5'8 and didn't find this reachy at all. I guess you could force a blinkered ..." 10/May

    Impossible Slab
    "a little confused, i started up beautician and then on the top slab climbed a li..." 27/Apr

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