Titanic and Blockhead

Adjacent Areas
< High Neb  |  Anniversary Arete >

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Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

The first of a series of small but interesting buttresses lost in the wilderness between High Neb and The Long Causeway, around 180m right of High Neb. Most of the routes are worth a look and you would be unlucky to have to queue at either of the buttresses covered here.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Barmy Brian's Flake Crack
The awkward flake crack on the left.
 
Graunchy
VS 5a
2
Gnat's Slab
Use the crack to gain a heathery ledge then take the easiest line.
 
Rounded
D 3c
3
Gnat's Slab Direct
The centre of the slab is bold. The heather ledge is a nuisance.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
HS 4b
4
Gnat's Slab Arete
The rib is tricky low down and poorly protected throughout.
 
Fluttery
HS 4c
5
Marie Celeste
Climb directly up the left-hand side of the face, a lonely experience and usual a bit dirty too.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
6
Lusitania
Climb the gloomy groove to pass the tricky bulge. The direct finish on sloping holds is best, though some of them are rather...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
HS 4b
7
QE 2
The angular arete leads to a hanging groove. Exit right from this.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
8
Titanic
A fine little route, varied, sustained and with an exiting finish. Climb the groove then traverse right to the arete. The moves...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
9
Gypsy Moth
The tricky pocketed slab leads to the bulges, head left from here.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
10
Titanic Direct
Varied and excellent. Climb the right arete, then the groove of the regular route followed by the flying arete above....
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Rounded
HVS 5a
11
Miss World
The flaky left arete of the face leads to heather. No beauty!
 
Fluttery
VS 4b
12
Mr Universe
The centre of the face has taxing moves on tiny holds.
 
Technical
E3 6a
13
Angus
The narrowing rift has hidden delights but helmets don't fit!
 
Graunchy
S 4a
14
Sinew Stretch
Balance and stretch up the left arete of the block. Nice moves.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5c
15
Blockhead Direct
The right arete also has some lovely moves, the central crack helps with holds and maybe a runner too.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
16
Kryton
The arete can also be climbed on its right-hand side.
 
Fluttery
HVS 5a
17
Headbanger
Access the hanging book-end from the right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E1 5c
18
Solomon's Seal
The centre of the wall using a poor flake. The sit-down start is Solomon Grundy, V11 8A.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
V10 7C+
19
The Jester
Grab edges and go for the top. A low start is a grade harder.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
V8 7B
20
Prairy Dog
The left-hand crack has a good finger-jam and a good runner, though using both at the same time can be tricky.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
HVS 5b
21
Slabenger
The thin slab, avoiding the cracks.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
V6 7A
22
Scavenger
The thin crack splitting the centre of the slab is neat.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS 4c
23
Scraps
The right-hand line on the slab starting up the dark streak.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS 5a
24
Sneaking Sally Through the Alley
Take the diagonal seam leads left across the slab to a late crux.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE NORTH

    Broken In
    "Could also not fin an 5a move, but the climbing is good." 07/Jun

    Seranata
    "A decent little route with a hard move to start. Quite sustained for its stature..." 21/Oct

    Countess Buttress
    "(soft) VS 4b**. As good as Elis' Eliminate, etc. It may be better with a belay p..." 17/Aug

    Graviton
    "VS 5b would seem about right for me. The first mantel felt the hardest and the s..." 11/Jun

    Love Handles
    "Now that a rather stout chap has made Microbe V3, this is no longer a grade hard..." 06/May

    Cave Buttress Right-hand
    "Really nice route. Really solid protection for the first part of the climb, not ..." 10/Apr

    Headbanger
    "This makes a great, but pretty hard, V3 (E1 6a) if climbed on the not-terrifying..." 10/Oct

    Anniversary Arete
    "First moves are probably 5b, maybe the move on to the top slab too. Borderline ..." 23/Sep

    Impossible Slab
    "If you can put a side runner in for the lower crux can you use the crack for eit..." 02/Sep

    Orang-outang
    "Nice moves with a short crux." 25/Jul

    Impossible Slab
    "This route, if you start left of inaccessible crack, is 'Love of my knife'.It go..." 23/Jul

    Norse Corner Climb
    "Bit of a tricky start (fell on my back after a slip low down!) that leads into a..." 13/Jun

    Fate
    "I'm 5'8 and didn't find this reachy at all. I guess you could force a blinkered ..." 10/May

    Impossible Slab
    "a little confused, i started up beautician and then on the top slab climbed a li..." 27/Apr

    High Neb Buttress Variations
    "I found the 'hidden holds' but they didn't help me much - definitely more than 5..." 24/Apr

    Surgeon's Saunter
    "Probably the most fun I've had on a route so far this year. It's just a shame th..." 11/Apr

    Central Buttress
    "Hardest VS I have ever tried!" 26/Oct

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