Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill
10 minsThe first section of the crag is dominated by a huge yew tree, overshadowing a dark cave. The walls here offer some short steep pitches on a couple of different levels. They can be green and overgrown although the fine prow of Tom Thumb will usually be in condition. Guidebook page 357.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Nemesis Exit 10m. The crack in the overhang above the cave starts off on perfect jams but widens to fist-size and then widens a bit more. 3 user comments | Strong | HVS 5b |
2 |
Hermitage Groove 8m. The tree-filled groove is a battle. Walk off left. | VD | |
3 |
Hermitage Crack 8m. The tricky and polished curving crack was a damn good effort for its day and is cleaner than it looks. Walk off left. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
4 |
Reticent Mass Murderer 8m. Short but hard work. From the ledge above the cave extemporise a way up the narrow leaning crack. Fat fingers or thin hands... | 2 Stars Strong | E5 6b |
5 |
Genocide 8m. The thin flake on the right leads to absurd extending moves up the short wall above - only the talented will succeed! 1 user comment | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | E6 6c |
6 |
Tom Thumb 18m. A thin crack in a shallow groove leads to a ledge on The Giant's Staircase (possible belay). Climb up left to a ledge then... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | E2 5c |
7 |
The Giant's Staircase 18m. An odd route consisting of a series of mantelshelves between stance-sized ledges. Trend right up the lower wall then left... 3 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
8 |
Bean Stalk 18m. The rounded arete used to provide a good little route, sadly the birch tree at the base is smothering it. Approach the rib... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E2 5c |
9 |
Oblique Chimney 10m. An interesting diagonal ramble through impressive terrain. | 1 Stars | D |
10 |
Elliott's Unconquerable 8m. A short-lived but pleasant piece of jamming with a tricky undercut start. Heading out left from the top of the crack is the... | 1 Stars Strong | HVS 5a |
11 |
Elliott's Right-hand 8m. The flake and wall to the right of Elliott's main crack have thin moves to reach the wide crack above but it soon eases. | Technical | E1 5c |
