Hermit's Cave and The Amphitheatre

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Early morning sun
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The first section is dominated by a huge yew tree, next to a dark cave. The walls here offer some short steep pitches on two levels. They can be green and overgrown although the fine prow of Tom Thumb is usually clean.
Approach (see map on page 510) - The crag can be seen from the lower parking place and guessed at from the upper one. The Hermit's Cave is the arrival point.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Nemesis Exit
The crack that splits the overhang above the cave starts off on perfect jams but gradually widens to fist size and then widens...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
2
Hermitage Groove
The green tree-capped groove is a battle. Walk off left or head up and right to finish up Hermitage Chimney - Mod see below.
1 user comment
 S
3
Hermitage Crack
The tricky curving crack is hard to access via a good flake and was a great effort for its day; the exit can be mossy. Walk off...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
4
Reticent Mass Murderer
Short but exquisite. From the ledge above the cave invent a way up the narrow leaning crack. Fat fingers or thin hands make...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
E4
5
Genocide
The thin flake on the right leads to absurd extending moves up the short wall above. Only the talented will succeed, though the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6
6
Hermitage Chimney
The short-lived angular rift on the right of the Genocide wall.
 M
7
Tom Thumb
A thin crack in a shallow groove leads to a ledge on The Giant's Staircase - stance? Climb up left to a ledge then lean back...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E2
8
The Giant's Staircase
An odd route consisting of a series of mantels between stance-sized ledges. Trend right up the lower wall then left via...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
9
No Peru
The disjointed grooves in the left arete of the pillar give some good moves, but it may need gardening before an ascent.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
10
Bean Stalk
The rounded arete provides an excellent little route now the cloaking birch has been pruned. Approach the rib via a wide...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
11
Amphitheatre Crack
The easiest climb on the cliff and the normal descent. The enclosed groove leads to the open space of the Amphitheatre; finish...
 M
12
Bramble Groove
The groove breaking left from the last route has some vegetated struggling - the steep crack on the right is the best option -...
 
Graunchy
VS
13
Bramley's Traverse
Follow the wide 'udgy' crack right of Bramble Groove to the ledge below its finish, then make an exposed traverse out left...
 HS
14
Oblique Chimney
A diagonal scramble through impressive terrain to an awkward exit up the wide slanting fissure. Backstroke works best.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
15
Darren Hawkins' Invisible Neck
The undercut arete eases once you are established.
 E4
16
Elliott's Unconquerable
A short-lived but pleasant piece of jamming with a tricky undercut start then good climbing above.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
17
Mephistopheles Exit
Heading out left from the top of the crack, this variation extends the fun a bit with some great positions.
 
1 Stars
HVS
18
Elliott's Right-hand
The flake and wall to the right of Elliott's main crack has thin moves to reach the wide crack above but soon eases.
 
Technical
E1
19
Hey Turkey Neck
This is the pocketed wall right of the upper section of Weston's Chimney - see below. Not marked on topo.
 E2
20
Weston's Chimney
Down and right, climb the manky red/green and slippery chimney to the Amphitheatre and a belay, then off-width the narrow...
 
Graunchy
VD
  • Latest Comments

    For CRATCLIFFE

    Suicide Wall
    "Changed from HVS 5a *** to HVS 5b ***, 75% of 74 votes for 5b" 23/Mar top50

    Suicide Wall
    "Bloody hard and intimidating at the grade. I did it in a single pitch on sight a..." 28/May top50

    Bean Stalk
    "Should be all one word i.e. 'Beanstalk'" 24/Jan

    Suicide Wall
    "Brilliant route, atrocious guidebook description and grade. Clearly 5b for the m..." 07/Oct top50

    Escape/Boot Hill
    "Well I am 5' 6" and no choice but to lean off that dimple and tip toe up th..." 15/Dec

    The Nemesis Exit
    "Flared mossfest. About the same grade as the Unprintable, whatever that may be....." 05/Jul

    Bean Stalk
    "Lovely route, fun climbing from the start. I couldn't get a small wire in, but ..." 04/May

    North Climb
    "Oak Tree Chimney (similar grade) makes a good approach to this route" 31/Aug

    Suicide Wall
    "Every millimetre is mint, easy for thugs." 27/Sep top50

    Five Finger Exercise
    "the break before the flake is really disgusting. it's probably just chalk from ..." 15/Jun top50

    Bean Stalk
    "Tree has now been chopped back, revealing a great route. A well-protected finge..." 02/Mar

    Savage Messiah
    "Hard time. Beautiful through the porthole though one feels deserving off a decen..." 09/Jun

    Suicide Wall
    "HVS, E1, does it matter that you can't unvote steve, u pansey!! i am uncomfortab..." 02/Jun top50

    Suicide Wall
    "I sweated more on this than on Fern Hill. An absolutely desperate HVS, E1 in my..." 02/Jun top50

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