Owl Gully

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Up and Down
Sheltered

The impressive sheer walls that flank either side of the deep rift of Owl Gully contain some of the finest routes on grit. The left-hand wall gets more sun and tends to stay cleaner than the other sections of the cliff. Although slightly overshadowed by its neighbour, the right wall would rank as the best wall of the cliff on most other Peak crags. The splendid Five Finger Exercise is particularly impressive, giving great climbing on a line that looks so unlikely. The right-hand wall is often greener than the Fern Hill side as it gets sun later in the day.
Approach (see map on page 510) - Scramble down and right from the Hermit's Cave until below the huge gash of Owl Gully.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Escape/Boot Hill
A magnificent arete climb, low in the grade but exciting all the same. Climb the greasy chimney and monkey along the break to...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E3
2
Trick or Treat
The hardest of the trio, a solid seconder is required.1) 5c, 18m. Start via Boot Hill to the arete then continue along the...
 
2 Stars
E3
3
The Groove
The blanktastic groove in the wall was lusted after for generations. Now it gives one of the hardest around, with highly...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E9
4
Nutcracker
Launch out left and hand traverse out to the arete and a rest. Climb the steep slab (as for the long reach method of...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
5
Fern Hill Indirect
Superb. Consider placing a runner in the start of the regular route to avoid a massive pendulum if you muff the crux moves....
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
E4
6
Fern Hill Top 50
Magnificent climbing up the diagonal cracks in the left wall of Owl Gully. Start by a thin horizontal crack and swing left....
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
E2
7
Owl Gully
The deep cleft is a half-decent low-grade route climbed awkwardly on glossy holds to a substantial chockstone and an exit to...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
8
Tiger Traverse
A pumpy little number that swings along the rounded break halfway up the wall - keep your eye open for the foothold. Escape up...
 
1 Stars
E2
9
Nettle Wine
Safe technical climbing up the left side of the wall with a spectacular finish. From a little way along Tiger Traverse (or from...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4
10
Five Finger Exercise Top 50
A superb route up the right wall of the gully with a wild finale that trips many a suitor. Pull right over a narrow overlap and...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
E2
11
Liquid Assets
Traverse out the square arete (high runners) and climb to the edge of the huge overhang and then up the crimpy wall above. Step...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
12
Bower Route 1
A short but pleasant pitch that is the easiest way to access the Bower and which was the first route to tickle the edges of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS
13
Direct Start
Oddly indirect. Start as for Bower Route 1 but jam the angular corner to the roof then traverse rapidly out right to the...
 
1 Stars
VS
14
Renaissance
A wandering route with some quality climbing.1) 6a, 10m. Climb the thin hanging crack and its wider continuation until the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
15
Mordaunt
A magnificent girdle covering impressive territory at a sustained but amenable grade. The best of its genre on grit!1) 5b,...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E2
  • Latest Comments

    For CRATCLIFFE

    Genocide
    "Changed from E6 6c ** to E6 6c ***, 100% of 1 vote for ***" 23/Mar

    Suicide Wall
    "Bloody hard and intimidating at the grade. I did it in a single pitch on sight a..." 28/May top50

    Bean Stalk
    "Should be all one word i.e. 'Beanstalk'" 24/Jan

    Suicide Wall
    "Brilliant route, atrocious guidebook description and grade. Clearly 5b for the m..." 07/Oct top50

    Escape/Boot Hill
    "Well I am 5' 6" and no choice but to lean off that dimple and tip toe up th..." 15/Dec

    The Nemesis Exit
    "Flared mossfest. About the same grade as the Unprintable, whatever that may be....." 05/Jul

    Bean Stalk
    "Lovely route, fun climbing from the start. I couldn't get a small wire in, but ..." 04/May

    North Climb
    "Oak Tree Chimney (similar grade) makes a good approach to this route" 31/Aug

    Suicide Wall
    "Every millimetre is mint, easy for thugs." 27/Sep top50

    Five Finger Exercise
    "the break before the flake is really disgusting. it's probably just chalk from ..." 15/Jun top50

    Bean Stalk
    "Tree has now been chopped back, revealing a great route. A well-protected finge..." 02/Mar

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