Adjacent Areas
< Tom Thumb | Suicide Wall >
To the right are the twin sheer walls that flank either side of the deep rift of Owl Gully. These impressive walls contain some of the finest routes around and also one of the most obvious unclimbed problems, the shallow groove nears its left-hand side. The left-hand wall gets more sun and therefore tends to stay cleaner than the other sections of the cliff. Although it is slightly overshadowed by its neighbour opposite, the right-hand wall of Owl Gully would probably rank as THE wall of the cliff on many other Peak crags. The splendid Five Finger Exercise is particularly impressive, giving great climbing, at a reasonable grade, on a line that looks much harder than it is. The wall is often greener than the Fern Hill side and receives the sun later in the day. Guidebook page 358.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Weston's Chimney 16m. Climb the green and slippery chimney to a wide ledge and belay, then climb the narrower continuation in the right wall. | VD | |
2 |
Escape/Boot Hill 18m. A magnificent arete climb, low in the grade but exciting. Climb Weston's Chimney then swing along the break to the arete.... 9 user comments | 3 Stars | E3 5c |
3 |
Nutcracker 20m. Launch out left and hand traverse out to the arete and a rest. Climb the steep slab (as for the long reach method of... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | E2 5c |
4 |
Fern Hill Indirect 20m. Devious but quite superb. It is sensible to place a runner in the start of the regular route if you don't want to face a... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
5 |
Fern Hill Top 50 12m. Magnificent strenuous climbing up the diagonal cracks in the left wall of Owl Gully. Start by a thin horizontal crack and... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
6 |
Owl Gully 20m. The deep cleft is an interesting low-grade climb, with glossy holds, a substantial chockstone and an exit on the right. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VD |
7 |
Tiger Traverse 16m. A pumpy little number that swings along the rounded break half-way up the wall, feet being virtually redundant. Escape up... | 1 Stars Pumpy Rounded | E2 5b |
8 |
Nettle Wine 12m. Technical climbing up the left-hand side of the wall with a spectacular finish. From a little way along Tiger Traverse (or... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E4 6b |
9 |
Five Finger Exercise Top 50 22m. A great route up the right wall of the gully with a wild finale that trips up many a suitor. Pull rightwards over a narrow... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
10 |
Liquid Assets 22m. Traverse out to the square arete (high runners in FFE) and climb to the edge of the huge overhang and then up the crimpy... | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6b |
11 |
Renaissance A wandering route though with some quality moves. See photo on next page for the start.1) 6a, 10m. Climb the thin hanging... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E2 6a |
