Owl Gully

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

To the right are the twin sheer walls that flank either side of the deep rift of Owl Gully. These impressive walls contain some of the finest routes around and also one of the most obvious unclimbed problems, the shallow groove nears its left-hand side. The left-hand wall gets more sun and therefore tends to stay cleaner than the other sections of the cliff. Although it is slightly overshadowed by its neighbour opposite, the right-hand wall of Owl Gully would probably rank as THE wall of the cliff on many other Peak crags. The splendid Five Finger Exercise is particularly impressive, giving great climbing, at a reasonable grade, on a line that looks much harder than it is. The wall is often greener than the Fern Hill side and receives the sun later in the day. Guidebook page 358.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Weston's Chimney
16m. Climb the green and slippery chimney to a wide ledge and belay, then climb the narrower continuation in the right wall.
 VD
2
Escape/Boot Hill
18m. A magnificent arete climb, low in the grade but exciting. Climb Weston's Chimney then swing along the break to the arete....
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
E3 5c
3
Nutcracker
20m. Launch out left and hand traverse out to the arete and a rest. Climb the steep slab (as for the long reach method of...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E2 5c
4
Fern Hill Indirect
20m. Devious but quite superb. It is sensible to place a runner in the start of the regular route if you don't want to face a...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
5
Fern Hill Top 50
12m. Magnificent strenuous climbing up the diagonal cracks in the left wall of Owl Gully. Start by a thin horizontal crack and...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
6
Owl Gully
20m. The deep cleft is an interesting low-grade climb, with glossy holds, a substantial chockstone and an exit on the right.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
7
Tiger Traverse
16m. A pumpy little number that swings along the rounded break half-way up the wall, feet being virtually redundant. Escape up...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E2 5b
8
Nettle Wine
12m. Technical climbing up the left-hand side of the wall with a spectacular finish. From a little way along Tiger Traverse (or...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6b
9
Five Finger Exercise Top 50
22m. A great route up the right wall of the gully with a wild finale that trips up many a suitor. Pull rightwards over a narrow...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
10
Liquid Assets
22m. Traverse out to the square arete (high runners in FFE) and climb to the edge of the huge overhang and then up the crimpy...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
11
Renaissance
A wandering route though with some quality moves. See photo on next page for the start.1) 6a, 10m. Climb the thin hanging...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E2 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For CRATCLIFFE

    Suicide Wall
    "Bloody hard and intimidating at the grade. I did it in a single pitch on sight a..." 28/May top50

    Bean Stalk
    "Should be all one word i.e. 'Beanstalk'" 24/Jan

    Suicide Wall
    "Brilliant route, atrocious guidebook description and grade. Clearly 5b for the m..." 07/Oct top50

    Escape/Boot Hill
    "Well I am 5' 6" and no choice but to lean off that dimple and tip toe up th..." 15/Dec

    The Nemesis Exit
    "Flared mossfest. About the same grade as the Unprintable, whatever that may be....." 05/Jul

    Bean Stalk
    "Lovely route, fun climbing from the start. I couldn't get a small wire in, but ..." 04/May

    North Climb
    "Oak Tree Chimney (similar grade) makes a good approach to this route" 31/Aug

    Suicide Wall
    "Every millimetre is mint, easy for thugs." 27/Sep top50

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