Penya l'Alcalà

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< Sector l'Orgue  |  Penya l'Alcalà - Right >

Sport
Lots of sun!
1 min
Up and Down
Sheltered

The best climbing at Guadalest is on the huge wall of Penya l'Alcala. This fine wall has many long pitches on some amazing rock formations. There is still plenty of loose rock around, so take great care and don't stand under climbers at work. It is also known as Sector Piscina.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Vía clásica
A longer route (two pitches - 70m) from the highest of the ledges up the left-hand side of the wall. It may need some gear.
 5c
2
Maulets a al Lluita
The left-hand side of the grey slab.
 
2 Stars
6a
3
Endevant
This is the bolt-line left of the long flake-crack.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a
4
Coses de Turbo
1) 6a+, 2) 6a, 3) 5+. The initial long and photogenic crack has been extended upwards by two more pitches.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
5
Marina Baixa
1) 6b, 2) 6b. The steep rib right of the flake-crack.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
6
Malvinas
 5c
7
Gibraltar
 6a
8
Irlanda del Norte
 6a
9
Son Goku
A sustained leaning groove gains the steep grey slab above. A second.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
10
Estética
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
11
Cariat de Güelo
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
12
L'Espill o Llibre
1) 6a+, 2) 5+, 3) 6a. This cracker starts just left of two steps and runs the full height of the wall - blue bolts. All the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
13
Tirant lo Blanc
The first route here climbs leftwards to pass a conspicuous white scar just below the lower-off.
 
1 Stars
5c
14
La disputa de l'Ase
The rounded grey rib on better-than-expected holds.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
15
Fuig d'Aci
Climb up left, then finish direct.
1 user comment
 6b+
16
Contaminació britànica
From the base of the ramp, move right then up.
 
1 Stars
6c+
17
Territorios ocupados
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
18
La Muixeranga (P1)
Head for the prominent blue belay.
1 user comment
 6a
19
L'Ham de foc lo blanc (P1)
Yellow bolts lead to the same belay as La Muixeranga via a long reach or a hard move.
 
Reachy
5c
20
Directa i Au (P1)
Skirt the roof rightwards.
 
1 Stars
5a
21
La Diagonal
VS. Several pitches across the crag on trad gear.
 4a
22
Carretera ocultaana
HVS. Climb from the ledge reached by one of the lower routes.
 5a
23
Green Bolts
60m. No details on this one yet. It may have an extension pitch.
 ??
24
Festa d'Estiu
The long line of green bolts on the left.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5c
25
Xirimita
The next line (red bolts) is sustained but never too hard.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5c
26
Tabalet
The right-hand line of green bolts has sustained moves plus a mid-height crux to access a shallow groove.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a
27
La Muixeranga (P2)
Starting from paired rings, another fine sustained one.
 
3 Stars
5c
28
L'Ham de foc lo blanc (P2)
Follow the yellow bolts up the wall. Less well-travelled than the others here.
 
2 Stars
6a
29
Directa i Au
1) 6a, 2) 6b+. A fine climb of escalating difficulty which takes the right-hand edge of this fine sheet of rock.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b+
30
Tigre de Papel
VS. Start up La Diagonal. Three pitches lead to the top.
 4a
31
Arc de Sant Martí
A good long pitch up the rounded pillar (blue bolts). There is a lower-off at 10m (4+ to here). Take care when lowering off.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5c
32
Del tossal a l'hort
1) 5+. Long and interesting after a loose start. 2) 6a. Great rock on this pitch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a
33
No ho se
1) 5+, 2) 5+. Climb steeply to a good ledge, then up the fine grey pillar to the right. Descend in two abseils.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5c
34
Obrint pas

2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a
35
Avaratar
 
1 Stars
6b
36
No em Tokeu els ous
1) 6a, 2) 5+. Another big one.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a
37
L'Escorxador de víes
A huge pitch, following the blue bolts. The technical crux is a fingery pull low down, but the physical crux is near the top.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
38
La lluna de Sant Joan
1) 5, 2) 5+. Trend right up an open groove to reach a stance, then go direct up the top wall.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5c
39
Eclipsi
Basically a harder direct start to the previous route.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
40
Pericana Sense Gana
A steep pitch up the grey shield following a line of grey bolts.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6b
41
El principi i el fi
1) 6a+, 2) 6a. Two pitches with a stance on top of the grey pillar.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
42
Llums i sombres
Ring-bolts in the rib lead to a trickier section that can be done left or right, both at the same grade.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
43
Erotika
1) 6a, 2) 6a+. Great climbing up the edge of the orange rock.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6a+
44
Pels Pels
A big pitch.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
6a+
45
Cavernícola
1) 5, 2) 6a. A line through the orange heart of the crag, with a spectacular finish. More solid and better than it looks from...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
6a
46
Cassalla
Start right behind the tree.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
47
Oli d'Oliva
A tougher right-hand exit to the last route.
 6c+
48
Orxata de xufa
1) 6a, 2) 5+. Climb the white crumbly rock (red bolts) - when it gets tricky look behind you. The second pitch is on better...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6a
49
Torró de Xixona
1) 6a+, 2) 6a. A similar line snaking up the wall 3m right of the tree, with a steep and juggy top pitch.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
50
La pedra ibérica
1) 5+, 2) 5+ A great climb that can be done in one huge pitch (22 clips if we counted correctly) or use the belay (no stance)...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5c
51
Klandestina
Cross the hollow (blue bolts) to the steep rock on the right.
 
1 Stars
Loose
5c
52
Azules
25m. From the stance part way up the previous climb follow the blue bolts up through the juggy bulges.
 
Pumpy
??
53
Pilart
This is the sharp grey pillar just left of a peculiar white tube.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a
54
Depredació urbanística
1) 6b, 2) 5+. A steep start right of the white tube leads to a good stance on the pillar and superb, Verdonesque top pitch.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
55
Prou d'ocupació
A fine pitch starting at the entrance to the canyon.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a
56
Dieta mediterránea
1) 5+, 2) 5. The last of the multi-pitch routes is easier. Start with some back and footing, then climb the groove and block to...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For GUADALEST

    Fuig d'Aci
    "Great route in the scoop! A couple of hard moves in succession between bolts 4-6..." 05/May

    La pedra ibérica
    "An 80 meter rope will take you up and down both pitches. Nice." 27/Mar

    Dieta mediterránea
    "Excellent route can be done in one pitch on a 70m rope. There's no way any norma..." 11/Dec

    L'home Mistol
    "Just right of this there's, a new route called "Hombre Alcanfor", abou..." 09/Dec

    Endevant
    "The rock is dark, rather scruffy-looking and showing few signs that humans have ..." 05/Dec

    Ron con porros
    "tricky start (crux around 2. bolt) on compact stone - bridges the ledge area on ..." 24/Nov

    Contes i Llegendes
    "loose and unpleasant. large areas of rock scarring are rather unsettling. the cl..." 26/Mar

    Retovato glutamato
    "I'd say 4+ too." 26/Jan

    l'Orgue
    "Tough for 6a+" 31/Mar

    Økupa
    "great climbing,atletic and tricky" 08/May

    La pedra ibérica
    "Good route. We were rained off after this but the crag looks impressive." 06/Mar

    La Senda del parabolt
    "Blimey, I reckon Max must have had a bad day or something because this is one of..." 01/Jan

    La Senda del parabolt
    "Start behind the bush! 2 distinct cruxes but not enough good climbing on it to b..." 29/Oct

    l'Orgue
    "fun route with a horrible approach. soft for 6a+" 29/Sep

    La pedra ibérica
    "A great route, with hidden jugs on all the steep bits. You can belay comfortably..." 23/Mar

    Ai mar quina castanya
    "Would agree with 6a" 12/Feb

    Depredació urbanística
    "Awkward moves on dusty holds off the poisen ivy followed by a more awkward than ..." 18/Dec

    La Placa Ataka
    "I'd say its probably a 5+" 01/Nov

    Men isc casca
    "Lower off needs connecting with chain/cord. Single bolt lower of at moment." 19/Oct

    Borrosca de neu
    "I agree with the first comment, would give it a 6a+ at least" 09/Mar

    La pedra ibérica
    "Yes, it is a good long pitch which we just managed to get down from on a 70m rop..." 17/Feb

    Directa i Au
    "disagree - thought excellent and worth 3 stars." 13/Mar

    Directa i Au
    "more like 65m. grades about right. not worth 3 stars." 14/Jan

    La pedra ibérica
    "Between here and the previous route, there are now SEVEN new routes. They look g..." 17/Dec

    Festa d'Estiu
    "No way this is worth 3 stars. It is just about worth 1 star." 17/Dec

    Carabassa t'han donat
    "Crux is right at the top of this route. Best to bridge up the final grove, but m..." 26/Feb

    Sang trait
    "The finishing moves are actually ok, with the hard climbing coming on the very s..." 03/Jan

    Temps de Joc
    "Not really a slab!" 30/Dec

    Borrosca de neu
    "I would agree with John Dale, around 6a. Also a fair bit better route than Men i..." 25/Dec

    Borrosca de neu
    "Good climbing, given 6a+ in earlier guide. Probably at least 6a." 21/Dec

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