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Up and Down

1 min

The best climbing at Guadalest is on the huge wall of Penya l'Alcala. This fine wall has many long pitches on some amazing rock formations. There is still plenty of loose rock around, so take great care and don't stand under climbers at work. It is also known as Sector Piscina. Guidebook page 254.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Vía clásica A longer route (two pitches - 70m) from the highest of the ledges up the left-hand side of the wall. It may need some gear.		5+
2	Maulets a al Lluita The left-hand side of the grey slab.	2 Stars	6a
3	Endevant This is the bolt-line left of the long flake-crack.	2 Stars	6a
4	Coses de Turbo 1) 6a+, 2) 6a, 3) 5+. The initial long and photogenic crack has been extended upwards by two more pitches.	2 Stars Pumpy	6a+
5	Marina Baixa 1) 6b, 2) 6b. The steep rib right of the flake-crack.	2 Stars Pumpy	6b
6	Malvinas		5+
7	Gibraltar		6a
8	Irlanda del Norte		6a
9	Son Goku A sustained leaning groove gains the steep grey slab above. A second.	3 Stars Pumpy	6c
10	Estética	2 Stars Pumpy	6c
11	Cariat de Güelo	2 Stars Pumpy	6b+
12	L'Espill o Llibre 1) 6a+, 2) 5+, 3) 6a. This cracker starts just left of two steps and runs the full height of the wall - blue bolts. All the...	3 Stars Pumpy	6a+
13	Tirant lo Blanc The first route here climbs leftwards to pass a conspicuous white scar just below the lower-off.	1 Stars	5+
14	La disputa de l'Ase The rounded grey rib on better-than-expected holds. 1 user comment	1 Stars Pumpy	6a+
15	Fuig d'Aci Climb up left, then finish direct.		6b+
16	Contaminació britànica From the base of the ramp, move right then up.	1 Stars	6c+
17	Territorios ocupados	1 Stars Technical	7a
18	La Muixeranga (P1) Head for the prominent blue belay. 1 user comment		6a
19	L'Ham de foc lo blanc (P1) Yellow bolts lead to the same belay as La Muixeranga via a long reach or a hard move.	Reachy	5+
20	Directa i Au (P1) Skirt the roof rightwards.	1 Stars	5
21	La Diagonal VS. Several pitches across the crag on trad gear.		4
22	Carretera ocultaana HVS. Climb from the ledge reached by one of the lower routes.		5
23	Green Bolts 60m. No details on this one yet. It may have an extension pitch.		??
24	Festa d'Estiu The long line of green bolts on the left. 1 user comment	3 Stars Pumpy	5+
25	Xirimita The next line (red bolts) is sustained but never too hard.	3 Stars Pumpy	5+
26	Tabalet The right-hand line of green bolts has sustained moves plus a mid-height crux to access a shallow groove. 1 user comment	3 Stars Pumpy	6a
27	La Muixeranga (P2) Starting from paired rings, another fine sustained one.	3 Stars	5+
28	L'Ham de foc lo blanc (P2) Follow the yellow bolts up the wall. Less well-travelled than the others here.	2 Stars	6a
29	Directa i Au 1) 6a, 2) 6b+. A fine climb of escalating difficulty which takes the right-hand edge of this fine sheet of rock. 2 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	6b+
30	Tigre de Papel VS. Start up La Diagonal. Three pitches lead to the top.		4
31	Arc de Sant Martí A good long pitch up the rounded pillar (blue bolts). There is a lower-off at 10m (4+ to here). Take care when lowering off. 2 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	5+
32	Del tossal a l'hort 1) 5+. Long and interesting after a loose start. 2) 6a. Great rock on this pitch.	2 Stars Pumpy	6a
33	No ho se 1) 5+, 2) 5+. Climb steeply to a good ledge, then up the fine grey pillar to the right. Descend in two abseils.	2 Stars Pumpy	5+
34	Obrint pas	1 Stars	6a
35	Avaratar	1 Stars	6b
36	No em Tokeu els ous 1) 6a, 2) 5+. Another big one.	2 Stars	6a
37	L'Escorxador de víes A huge pitch, following the blue bolts. The technical crux is a fingery pull low down, but the physical crux is near the top.	3 Stars Pumpy	6b
38	La lluna de Sant Joan 1) 5, 2) 5+. Trend right up an open groove to reach a stance, then go direct up the top wall.	2 Stars	5+
39	Eclipsi Basically a harder direct start to the previous route.	1 Stars Pumpy	6a+
40	Pericana Sense Gana A steep pitch up the grey shield following a line of grey bolts.	2 Stars	6b
41	El principi i el fi 1) 6a+, 2) 6a. Two pitches with a stance on top of the grey pillar.	2 Stars Pumpy	6a+
42	Llums i sombres Ring-bolts in the rib lead to a trickier section that can be done left or right, both at the same grade.	2 Stars Technical	6a+
43	Erotika 1) 6a, 2) 6a+. Great climbing up the edge of the orange rock.	3 Stars Pumpy Loose	6a+
44	Pels Pels A big pitch.	1 Stars Fluttery	6a+
45	Cavernícola 1) 5, 2) 6a. A line through the orange heart of the crag, with a spectacular finish. More solid and better than it looks from...	2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery	6a
46	Cassalla Start right behind the tree.	1 Stars Pumpy	6c
47	Oli d'Oliva A tougher right-hand exit to the last route.		6c+
48	Orxata de xufa 1) 6a, 2) 5+. Climb the white crumbly rock (red bolts) - when it gets tricky look behind you. The second pitch is on better...	2 Stars Pumpy Loose	6a
49	Torró de Xixona 1) 6a+, 2) 6a. A similar line snaking up the wall 3m right of the tree, with a steep and juggy top pitch.	2 Stars Pumpy	6a+
50	La pedra ibérica 1) 5+, 2) 5+ A great climb that can be done in one huge pitch (22 clips if we counted correctly) or use the belay (no stance)... 4 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy	5+
51	Klandestina Cross the hollow (blue bolts) to the steep rock on the right.	1 Stars Loose	5+
52	Azules 25m. From the stance part way up the previous climb follow the blue bolts up through the juggy bulges.	Pumpy	??
53	Pilart This is the sharp grey pillar just left of a peculiar white tube.	1 Stars Crimpy	6a
54	Depredació urbanística 1) 6b, 2) 5+. A steep start right of the white tube leads to a good stance on the pillar and superb, Verdonesque top pitch. 2 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	6b
55	Prou d'ocupació A fine pitch starting at the entrance to the canyon.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	6a
56	Dieta mediterránea 1) 5+, 2) 5. The last of the multi-pitch routes is easier. Start with some back and footing, then climb the groove and block to...	2 Stars	5+

Penya l'Alcalà

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