Penya Maura

Adjacent Areas
< Penya l'Alcalà - Right  |  None >

Sport
Sun from mid-morning
3 mins
Downhill

The final section of developed rock is down and right of Sector Penya l'Alcalā - a prominent red tower with a short grey wall at its right-hand toe. This has been fully developed now, though the collection of trad routes (mostly on the right-hand side) are not described here.
ApproachFollow the one-way system through Guadalest down past the Sector Penya l'Alcalā to roadside parking below the cliff - please park sensibly.
ConditionsThe crag looks like a loose conglomerate on first acquaintance, though the routes are well cleaned and tend to make use of the best rock. The crag takes no drainage and is in the sun from mid-morning onwards. The refuge is a two minute walk away if you fancy a brew-break.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sodoma
The left-hand side of the rib to a shared lower-off.
 3+
2
Gomorra
A steeper start direct up the rib.
 3+
3
Pedorra
Climb the short gully then move left to the rib.
 4a
4
Ésta también se mueve
Climb a slab leading to a rib and cracks.
 
1 Stars
DWS
3+
5
Solo la del cordino
Climb the slab to a groove.
 
1 Stars
4a
6
Escrototeame
Start just left of the tree. A loose middle section leading to hard moves. Unbalanced.
 
Technical
Pumpy
6a
7
La abeja Nahia
Start right of the tree to the slab above.
 5a
8
La soplá
Start up route 7 then break right. There is a direct start which is around 6b but very unbalanced.
1 user comment
 5c
9
Coñocabra
A hard left-hand start to the next route.
1 user comment
 
Technical
6b+
10
Cornicabra
Tackle the steep orange groove, then swing left to the easier grey rib. The most popular route here despite some shattered...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Loose
5c
11
Margalló
A hard and steep start to the glorious jug-pulling at the overhang, followed by easier, though still good climbing to the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6a+
12
Intolerancia 0
Gentle start to steep moves above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
13
Garrofer
A fine, long pitch starting up the sentry-box, with a scrappy start past a tricky bulge and with a final hard move.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
14
Ron con porros
Another long one. Initially with steep and tricky climbing, then easier moves trending rightwards.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
6b
15
Hay que darlo to
1) 6b. An indifferent first pitch leads to a stance in a hollow. 2) 7b+. The upper grey rib is much harder.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
16
Maura
1) 6b. There is a tricky bulge on the first pitch.2) 6a. The cracks above and slightly left.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
17
Punta la polla maldita
Start up Maura then tackle the left side of the orange recess and rib.
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b
18
Pais Valencia
Start from the ground and climb the lower wall, then head through the centre of the orange recess.
 
1 Stars
6c+
19
La Perla
A short pitch to the prominent lower-off.
 
1 Stars
6b
20
Flor d'ametler
Another short steep one, this time with awkward clips.
 
2 Stars
6c
21
Primavera
Steep red rock leads with increasing-difficulty to a ledge. The lower-off is higher up half-way up a crack. There is a poor...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
22
Makarrereta
The leaning orange wall is good.
 
2 Stars
Strong
6b
23
Inevitable
The leaning wall on odd rock, eventually easing.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6b+
24
Økupa
The steep grey streak is hard just before the angle eases.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
6b
25
Jana
More juggy fun towards the right-hand side of the leaning orange wall before the bushes take over the base.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a
26
Jana Right
The steep rib is the last sport route on this wall.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
6b