Penya Maura

Adjacent Areas
< Penya l'Alcalà - Right  |  None >

Sport
Sun and Shade
3 mins
Downhill

The final section of developed rock is down and right of Sector Penya l'Alcalā - a prominent red tower with a short grey wall at its right-hand toe. This has been fully developed now, though the collection of trad routes (mostly on the right-hand side) are not described here. Guidebook page 261.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sodoma
The left-hand side of the rib to a shared lower-off.
 3+
2
Gomorra
A steeper start direct up the rib.
 3+
3
Pedorra
Climb the short gully then move left to the rib.
 4a
4
Ésta también se mueve
Climb a slab leading to a rib and cracks.
 
1 Stars
3+
5
Solo la del cordino
Climb the slab to a groove.
 
1 Stars
4a
6
Escrototeame
Start just left of the tree. A loose middle section leading to hard moves. Unbalanced.
 
Technical
Pumpy
6a
7
La abeja Nahia
Start right of the tree to the slab above.
 5a
8
La soplá
Start up route 7 then break right. There is a direct start which is around 6b but very unbalanced.
1 user comment
 5c
9
Coñocabra
A hard left-hand start to the next route.
1 user comment
 
Technical
6b+
10
Cornicabra
Tackle the steep orange groove, then swing left to the easier grey rib. The most popular route here despite some shattered...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Loose
5c
11
Margalló
A hard and steep start to the glorious jug-pulling at the overhang, followed by easier, though still good climbing to the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6a+
12
Intolerancia 0
Gentle start to steep moves above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
13
Garrofer
A fine, long pitch starting up the sentry-box, with a scrappy start past a tricky bulge and with a final hard move.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
14
Ron con porros
Another long one. Initially with steep and tricky climbing, then easier moves trending rightwards.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
6b
15
Hay que darlo to
1) 6b. An indifferent first pitch leads to a stance in a hollow. 2) 7b+. The upper grey rib is much harder.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
16
Maura
1) 6b. There is a tricky bulge on the first pitch.2) 6a. The cracks above and slightly left.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
17
Punta la polla maldita
Start up Maura then tackle the left side of the orange recess and rib.
 
2 Stars
7b
18
Pais Valencia
Start from the ground and climb the lower wall, then head through the centre of the orange recess.
 
1 Stars
6c+
19
La Perla
A short pitch to the prominent lower-off.
 
1 Stars
6b
20
Flor d'ametler
Another short steep one, this time with awkward clips.
 
2 Stars
6c
21
Primavera
Steep red rock leads with increasing-difficulty to a ledge. The lower-off is higher up half-way up a crack. There is a poor...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
22
Makarrereta
The leaning orange wall is good.
 
2 Stars
6b
23
Inevitable
The leaning wall on odd rock, eventually easing.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6b+
24
Økupa
The steep grey streak is hard just before the angle eases.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
25
Jana
More juggy fun towards the right-hand side of the leaning orange wall before the bushes take over the base.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a
26
Jana Right
The steep rib is the last sport route on this wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
??
27
Guiris gou Jorn
8m. Yellow and green bolts to a chain.
 ??
28
Plou Poc
8m. Make a powerful move on good holds up the left edge of the pale rock.
 ??