The Quarry

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill

Much of the rock in the old quarries is poor but there are some worthwhile climbs scattered along the cliff. Belays above many routes are difficult to arrange; there are widely spaced stakes hidden in the grass, though on some routes it is better to belay at the cliff edge - care is needed. The first routes described are on the short wall on the left, characterised by a blocky dry-stone wall filling a cave near the cliff top. The rock is not the best, though it is the sunniest wall in the quarry and therefore just about worth describing.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Schmarren
10m. Climb past the orifice to the wide break then up the short steep wall above to finish.
 
Loose
VS 4c
2
Staub
10m. The right-hand side of wall is a bit dusty and leads to a pull right onto the upper wall.
 
Loose
HVS 4c
3
Skull Climb
10m. Unique. Follow the flake to the left edge of the wall then trend right to the top. The direct exit is loose - best to...
 
1 Stars
Loose
VD
4
Skull Climb Right-hand
10m. A steep right-hand start leads to the parent route.
 
Loose
S 4a
5
The Iliad
10m. Fingery moves up the centre of the cracked wall.
 
Technical
Loose
VS 5a
6
Retreat
8m. Trend right to the groove and exit left from it. No belay.
 
Loose
M
7
Midas
8m. Follow the edge of the slab to a slanting groove. Climb up this and the short but exposed arete.
 VS 4c
8
Midas Direct
8m. Follow the previous route but head up into the scoop above with some trepidation. Finish direct.
 HVS 5a
9
Lethal Lemon
8m. The blunt rib is bold and delicate.
 
Fluttery
E1 5a
10
Geoff's Groove
8m. Pull into the deep groove and follow it. Exit with care.
 
Loose
D
  • Latest Comments

    For PULE HILL

    Delilah
    "A classic of its kind, requiring interesting offwidth technique. If you're big ..." 01/Nov

    No Traverse
    "Fab, it may be short, it may be a one move wonder, but it's fab." 18/Aug

    Overhanging Arete
    "A bit on the bold side but nice." 04/Jul

    Kletterschuhe
    "I reckon you go to the right just before the block." 21/May

    Overhanging Arete
    "Either I missed something or there's not a lot of protection on this one! The ..." 12/May

    Sandy Hole
    "thought this route finnished up the blocks above the little cave....this is the ..." 23/Nov

    The Great Scoop
    "One of the best routes at Pule Hill" 01/Nov

    Square Buttress
    "Hi Colin, Remember this is Rockfax we are talking about, they cannot even get..." 24/Oct

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