Garage Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Windy Buttress  |  Goddard's Quarry >

Trad
Lots of sun!
6 mins
Level

An impressive buttress with some big roofs in its upper section. The rock is a bit suspect in places and the lower wall is gaining vegetation too quickly.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Compositae Groove
1) 4b, 28m. Graze up the grass bank to a bush belay.2) 5a, 18m. Climb the groove past a couple of old pegs. At the roof...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
2
Trigger
The left-hand line through the bulge.
 
Technical
Strong
7a+
3
Two Ton Ted from Teddington
The right-hand line through the bulge.
 6c
4
Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door
Climb the wall and overlaps to an easier headwall.
 6c
5
Bohemian
Hard moves above the break.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
6
Empty Cartridge
A hard move above the break.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
7
Unloaded
Steady climbing with one hard section above the bulge.
 
Technical
6c
8
Reloaded
A tricky bulge and decent headwall.
 
1 Stars
6b+
9
I Hate You
Hard moves through the bulge. Can be by-passed on the right.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a+
10
Matrix
Pull up the rope to the ledge. Climb a left-facing groove to the ledge. Move up to the roof then traverse right around this,...
 
Fluttery
E3 5b
11
Matricide
A semi-bolted line which is close to Matrix. Some wires are needed for the top. Given 6b+ as well.
 E4 6a
12
Four Minute Tiler
A powerful direct route that sees few ascents. Climb to the break, then pull through the roof. Move up and right to some...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E5 6b
13
Alex It was Nothing Really
The direct finish to Four Minute Tiler past an old bolt and peg.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Strong
E5 6b
14
Colonel Bogey
Another decent Stoney E4. A technical lower wall (a bit snappy) leads to hard moves past two pegs to gain the break. After a...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
15
La Belle et la Bete
Start as for Colonel Bogey to the 2 pegs, but head left to the break. Pull rightwards through the bulge (bolt) then make more...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6b
16
Rippemoff
A popular route with a short and technical section on the first pitch.1) 5c, 18m. Climb a groove, then make a hard, steep...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
17
Helicon
A good direct line. Start as for Rippemoff to the break, then continue direct in one long pitch. A bit loose but low in the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
E3 5c
18
Chewemoff
1) 5c, 18m. Pitch 1 of Rippemoff.2) 6a, 15m. From the belay, move up and right through the roof via some complex moves...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
19
Dig Deep for Victory
The fingery wall just right of the ivy. Shared lower-off.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7c
20
Dig Deeper
From the third bolt on Dig Deep, move out left.
 8a
21
Ozone Bozo
One of the earlier sport routes on this wall. It is now better to finish up the final groove of Dig Deep for Victory, avoiding...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
22
Tollbar
A direct finish to Ozone Bozo.
 8a+
23
Trouble with Rubble
An short hard section on slightly friable rock.
 
1 Stars
8a
24
The Big Apple
Excellent and sustained climbing up the blank wall to an exciting finish. Low in the grade.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
25
Little Plum
A significant route from the early 80s. It is now climbed in one pitch as an easy 8a. A few wires are required for the easy...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
8a
26
Easy Skanking
A neglected trad route in two pitches 6b, 6a.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
27
The Lovers' Leap
A short sport route through the roof to the left of the upper section of Little Plum. It can be gained by the bottom pitch of...
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
28
Ming the Merciless
The wall just right of Little Plum is super crimpy and technical, with some difficult clips.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
29
Virgin on the Loose
2 bolts and a peg mark the line. The climbing is bold and technical and the route is seldom done.
3 user comments
 
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
30
Smoothlands
The slabby left-hand line to the twin ring lower-off.
 6a
31
Lowerlands
The slabby right-hand line to the twin ring lower-off.
 5c
32
The King of Ming
One of the better sport routes on this buttress up the shallow scoop with an exciting top section.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
33
Flycatcher
A bold and seldom climbed route. A bolt on the left helps protect it, but not very well.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
E5 6a
34
Lowlands
A tricky start then snappy wall above with one hard section.
 6c+
35
Dreamcatcher
Climb direct from the start of Lowlands and continue over the main break. A good long pitch.
 
1 Stars
6c
36
Creamsnatcher
A tricky start then snappy wall above.
 
1 Stars
6b
37
Evasor Top 50
A fine top pitch which gives VS climbing in an amazing position. 1) The old first pitch is loose and vegetated. Use one of the...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Loose
VS 4c
38
Four Thousand
A long single pitch. To the lower-off in the break is 6a+.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
39
Can't Stop Now
Branch left from Four Thousand and tackle the wall and bulge.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
40
Onwards and Upwards
Break right from Four Thousand up the snappy wall.
 6a
41
Nowt about Change
The rightmost route has a hard finish on layaways.
 6b
42
Pendulum
The well-named girdle can be started from the descent path or one of the new sport pitches. It features a lot of hunched up...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
43
Aquiline
1) 4b, 18m. Take the most stable line up the right-hand edge of the buttress and belay on the break.2) 5b, 15m. Climb the...
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS 5b
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For STONEY MIDDLETON

    Windhover
    "The crucial block at the start - providing an undercut then a foot hold as you d..." 29/Aug

    What the Hell?
    "This is a really good route - even the lower wall is okay - but it isn't 4b. I'd..." 26/May

    Gabriel and the Pearly Gates
    "Returning to Pearly Gates after a few years confirmed my impression that it was ..." 24/Apr top50

    Horizon
    "Worthwhile route, though not worth a star." 22/Apr

    Evasor
    "The length given for p1 here (and in the new Peak Limestone Rockfax for which I ..." 17/Oct top50

    Pygmies Walk Tall
    "Was really impressed with this route though it would benefit from more traffic t..." 24/Sep

    Dies Irae
    "Very little wear on this, compared to many routes at Stoney. Rock still felt gri..." 28/Aug

    Lost Horizon
    "S 3c or HS 4a gives a better idea of the bold nature of the route. Some interest..." 02/Jul

    Compositae Groove
    "Pity about the first pitch but the second is probably the best of it's grade at ..." 16/Jun

    Fe Fi Fo Fum
    "A good one for your mate to do, "it's only HVS..."" 25/Jul

    Windhover
    "Felt a bit loose in places today. The start is hard, but there's a hidden crimp ..." 24/Jul

    Brown Corner
    "Steep and dirty but on big holds all the way. Take some large gear (hexs)" 09/Jul

    The Slurper
    "As mentioned above, first pitch to Slurper is poor. Hard initial moves, especial..." 08/Jul

    Cock-a-leekie Wall
    "Worthwhile route. Tough crux, getting on 6a, on the right of the scoop." 05/Jul

    Special K
    "A poor route. A few poorly protected pulls then a so so E2 5c to finish. The bes..." 27/Jun

    Om
    "HVS 5b" 06/Jun

    Flycatcher
    "...and Flycathcer is spelt Flycatcher!" 04/Jun

    Pickpocket
    "Awesome Route. A full pitch of pump, worth at least 2 stars." 01/Apr

    Golden Gate
    "VS at most, definitely not HVS. The line isn't as dirty as it looks from the gro..." 26/Mar

    Glory Road
    "Surely the approach to the ledge is up the pleasant chimney, rather than the loo..." 20/Sep

    Padme
    "Pitch 2 is not worth the effort" 11/Aug top50

    Padme
    "I'm not sure whether pitch 2 (which is probably 5a) can really still be recommen..." 11/Aug top50

    Boat Pusher's Wall
    "If someone explains where the 'hexes' go il buy em a pint! I have done it and si..." 01/Aug

    Flake and Pillar
    "Dave - I think I'll take your word for it. Any route to attract the comment &qu..." 29/Jul

    Mani
    "Led it again a few days ago and E1 5b still seems a fair grade to me" 19/Jul

    Flake and Pillar
    "This route is okay, the moves the gear etc. Thoughtful maybe but okay. Good war..." 09/Jul

    Frisco Bay
    "Reasonably clean for Limestone VS, not too polished and worth 2 stars" 05/Jun

    The Slurper
    "Cleaned the route, both pitches are excellent. Care required with the blocks on ..." 02/Jun

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