Adjacent Areas
< Windy Buttress | None >
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
6 minsWindy
An impressive buttress with some big roofs in its upper section. The rock is a bit suspect in places and the lower wall is gaining vegetation too quickly. Guidebook page 66.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Four Minute Tiler A powerful direct route that sees few ascents. Climb to the break, then pull through the roof. Move up and right to some... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong Fluttery | E5 6b |
2 |
Alex It was Nothing Really Direct finish to Four Minute Tiler. 1 user comment | E5 6b | |
3 |
La Belle et la Bete Start as for Colonel Bogey to the 2 pegs, but head left to the break. Pull rightwards through the bulge (bolt) then make more... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E6 6b |
4 |
Colonel Bogey Another decent Stoney E4. A technical lower wall (a bit snappy) leads to hard moves past two pegs to gain the break. After a... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 6a |
5 |
Helicon A good direct line. Start as for Rippemoff to the break, then continue direct in one long pitch. A bit loose but low in the... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Loose | E3 5c |
6 |
Rippemoff A popular route with a short and technical section on the first pitch.1) 5c, 18m. Climb a groove, then make a hard, steep... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
7 |
Chewemoff 1) 5c, 18m. Pitch 1 of Rippemoff.2) 6a, 15m. From the belay, move up and right through the roof via some complex moves... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
8 |
Dig Deep for Victory The fingery wall just right of the ivy. Shared lower-off. | Technical Crimpy | 7c |
9 |
Ozone Bozo One of the earlier sport routes on this wall. It is now better to finish up the final groove of Dig Deep for Victory, avoiding... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7c |
10 |
The Big Apple Excellent and sustained climbing up the blank wall to an exciting finish. Low in the grade. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8a |
11 |
Little Plum A significant route from the early 80s. It is now climbed in one pitch as an easy 8a. A few wires are required for the easy... | 3 Stars Reachy Technical Strong Crimpy | 8a |
12 |
Virgin on the Loose 2 bolts and a peg mark the line. The climbing is bold and technical and the route is seldom done. 3 user comments | Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
13 |
Easy Skanking A neglected trad route in two pitches 6b, 6a. | Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
14 |
The Lovers' Leap A short sport route through the roof to the left of the upper section of Little Plum. It can be gained by the bottom pitch of... | 1 Stars | 7b+ |
15 |
Ming the Merciless The wall just right of Little Plum is super crimpy and technical, with some difficult clips. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 8a+ |
16 |
The King of Ming One of the better sport routes on this buttress up the shallow scoop with an exciting top section. | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
17 |
Flycatcher A bold and seldom climbed route. A bolt on the left helps protect it, but not very well. 2 user comments | Fluttery | E5 6a |
18 |
Evasor Top 50 A fine top pitch which gives VS climbing in an amazing position.1) 4b, 15m. An indifferent first pitch with spaced... 12 user comments | 2 Stars Loose | VS 4c |
19 |
Aquiline 1) 4b, 18m. Take the most stable line up the right-hand edge of the buttress and belay on the break.2) 5b, 15m. Climb the... | 1 Stars Loose | HVS 5b |
20 |
Pendulum The well-named girdle can be started via Aquiline or better, from the descent path. It features a lot of hunched up climbing... | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
