Garage Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Windy Buttress  |  None >

Trad
Lots of sun!
6 mins
Level

An impressive buttress with some big roofs in its upper section. The rock is a bit suspect in places and the lower wall is gaining vegetation too quickly.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Four Minute Tiler
A powerful direct route that sees few ascents. Climb to the break, then pull through the roof. Move up and right to some...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E5 6b
2
Alex It was Nothing Really
Direct finish to Four Minute Tiler.
1 user comment
 E5 6b
3
La Belle et la Bete
Start as for Colonel Bogey to the 2 pegs, but head left to the break. Pull rightwards through the bulge (bolt) then make more...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6b
4
Colonel Bogey
Another decent Stoney E4. A technical lower wall (a bit snappy) leads to hard moves past two pegs to gain the break. After a...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
5
Helicon
A good direct line. Start as for Rippemoff to the break, then continue direct in one long pitch. A bit loose but low in the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
E3 5c
6
Rippemoff
A popular route with a short and technical section on the first pitch.1) 5c, 18m. Climb a groove, then make a hard, steep...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
7
Chewemoff
1) 5c, 18m. Pitch 1 of Rippemoff.2) 6a, 15m. From the belay, move up and right through the roof via some complex moves...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
8
Dig Deep for Victory
The fingery wall just right of the ivy. Shared lower-off.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7c
9
Ozone Bozo
One of the earlier sport routes on this wall. It is now better to finish up the final groove of Dig Deep for Victory, avoiding...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
10
The Big Apple
Excellent and sustained climbing up the blank wall to an exciting finish. Low in the grade.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
11
Little Plum
A significant route from the early 80s. It is now climbed in one pitch as an easy 8a. A few wires are required for the easy...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
8a
12
Virgin on the Loose
2 bolts and a peg mark the line. The climbing is bold and technical and the route is seldom done.
3 user comments
 
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
13
Easy Skanking
A neglected trad route in two pitches 6b, 6a.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
14
The Lovers' Leap
A short sport route through the roof to the left of the upper section of Little Plum. It can be gained by the bottom pitch of...
 
1 Stars
7b+
15
Ming the Merciless
The wall just right of Little Plum is super crimpy and technical, with some difficult clips.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
16
The King of Ming
One of the better sport routes on this buttress up the shallow scoop with an exciting top section.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
17
Flycatcher
A bold and seldom climbed route. A bolt on the left helps protect it, but not very well.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
E5 6a
18
Evasor Top 50
A fine top pitch which gives VS climbing in an amazing position.1) 4b, 15m. An indifferent first pitch with spaced...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Loose
VS 4c
19
Aquiline
1) 4b, 18m. Take the most stable line up the right-hand edge of the buttress and belay on the break.2) 5b, 15m. Climb the...
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS 5b
20
Pendulum
The well-named girdle can be started via Aquiline or better, from the descent path. It features a lot of hunched up climbing...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
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  • Latest Comments

    For STONEY MIDDLETON

    What the Hell?
    "This is a really good route - even the lower wall is okay - but it isn't 4b. I'd..." 26/May

    Gabriel and the Pearly Gates
    "Returning to Pearly Gates after a few years confirmed my impression that it was ..." 24/Apr top50

    Horizon
    "Worthwhile route, though not worth a star." 22/Apr

    Evasor
    "The length given for p1 here (and in the new Peak Limestone Rockfax for which I ..." 17/Oct top50

    Pygmies Walk Tall
    "Was really impressed with this route though it would benefit from more traffic t..." 24/Sep

    Dies Irae
    "Very little wear on this, compared to many routes at Stoney. Rock still felt gri..." 28/Aug

    Lost Horizon
    "S 3c or HS 4a gives a better idea of the bold nature of the route. Some interest..." 02/Jul

    Compositae Groove
    "Pity about the first pitch but the second is probably the best of it's grade at ..." 16/Jun

    Fe Fi Fo Fum
    "A good one for your mate to do, "it's only HVS..."" 25/Jul

    Windhover
    "Felt a bit loose in places today. The start is hard, but there's a hidden crimp ..." 24/Jul

    Brown Corner
    "Steep and dirty but on big holds all the way. Take some large gear (hexs)" 09/Jul

    The Slurper
    "As mentioned above, first pitch to Slurper is poor. Hard initial moves, especial..." 08/Jul

    Cock-a-leekie Wall
    "Worthwhile route. Tough crux, getting on 6a, on the right of the scoop." 05/Jul

    Special K
    "A poor route. A few poorly protected pulls then a so so E2 5c to finish. The bes..." 27/Jun

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