Mystery Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Overhang Buttress >

Trad
No sun
Uphill
10 mins

The fine buttress above the dam is home to a good collection of rather devious routes that include some of the longest in the area. Sadly the crag is green for much of the year and many of the holds are very rounded. Guidebook page 58.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Ordinary Route
30m. An 'ordinary route' but an extraordinary outing that spirals its way up the cliff. The old-timers used to do it in five...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VD
2
Birtwhistle's Crack
24m. From Ordinary Route, continue up the awkward crack, moving left to its continuation. Finish up the easier groove above.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
3
Ordinary Route Direct
28m. Climb the disjointed groove to the right joining Ordinary Route at the 2nd Ledge.
 
1 Stars
VD
4
The Three Cs
30m. A varied outing with stances available along the way, or use double ropes. Climb though bulges to the 2nd Ledge...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
VS 4c
5
The Flake Direct
10m. The direct finish. Reaching the final flake is bold.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
6
Krypton Route
30m. Pull over the roof into the right-facing groove, up this then the face to the left to the 3rd Ledge. A short wall leads to...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
S 4a
7
The Flake Finish
10m. Move left to access the exposed flake and sprint up it.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS 4b
8
The Layback Finish
10m. The short lived crack above the 4th Ledge is hard.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
VS 4c
9
The Krypton Eliminate
20m. The right edge of the main buttress gives a worthwhile pitch - rounded and quite bold, big cams help.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E1 5b
10
The Gully
18m. The gully that bounds the right-hand side of the cliff gives an easy climb, or an awkward way down.
 D
11
Wrinkly Arete
14m. The right arete of the gully is perhaps a good choice for the older climber.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS 5a
12
Wrinkled Wall Direct
14m. Climb the face to a ledge then balance right to a small groove to finish.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS 4b
13
Wrinkled Wall
14m. Climb the crack then, from the ledge on the right, trend left to the centre of the face and finish direct.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVD
  • Latest Comments

    For WIDDOP

    Ordinary Route
    "I'd strongly suggest pitching this route before the stomach traverse as otherwis..." 07/Jul

    The Flake Finish
    "1 Star, give me a break! more like 3 stars. its one reason to drive all the way ..." 16/Sep

    Reservoir Dogs
    "I think crucial pebbles came off the crux after the 3rd? ascent and made the rou..." 12/Sep

    The Layback Finish
    "Bold, slopey and a sandbag finish. Stick to the lakeside boulders!" 08/May

    Search for comments