Purgatory Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
No sun
Uphill
15 mins

Originally known as Guinea Pig Buttress (look at the boulder on its crest) this is arguably the finest piece of rock at Widdop - pity that most of the routes are so damn hard. Lower grade climbers can call in for the tough rift of Purgatory Chimney (it's all in the name) or the weird chipped line of holds that is Artificial Route. All of the rest of the routes are the preserve of the talented and bold. Reservoir Dogs and Widdop Wall in particular offer magnificent challenges that see few ascents. Guidebook page 60.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Scuppered
6m. The left-slanting groove was pegged less often than its near neighbour to the right.
 
Crimpy
Rounded
HVS 5c
2
Forty Calorie Cocoa
6m. Trend right to access the shallow scoop then up this warily.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 6a
3
Piton Crack
8m. The left-slanting and once-pegged crack is tenuous and protection is indifferent.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
4
Mantel Madness
8m. Trend right to a shallow groove, climb this and finish direct with difficulty, or cop out rightwards.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E3 6a
5
Argon/The Final Step
30m. A girdle of this fine buttress. Start round the arete and traverse out right across the slab and round onto Artificial...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 6a
6
Pulp Friction
20m. The scary left arete of the buttress until relief arrives in the form of Artificial Route and its chipped holds.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 6a
7
Sisyphus
20m. Climb direct to the runners on Artificial Route then step right and climb the scoop to the triangular roof. Pass this to...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
8
Afternoon Delight
24m. Follow Sisyphus to the junction with Artificial Route then step right and balance across the line that runs across the...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
9
Swift and Sure
20m. One of the best hard routes on Yorkshire Grit offering superb but harrowing climbing crossing Artificial Route at its...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
10
Artificial Route
22m. Bizarre in the extreme but oddly enjoyable too. Follow the chipped ladder to the top left edge of the face then exit round...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
11
Purgatory Problem
18m. Follow the old bolt holes to a pair of ancient bolts then move right to the arete. Either escape into the chimney or, much...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
12
Purgatory Chimney
16m. The rift is awkward, especially for those of a fuller figure who may dispute the grade of the initial fissure.
 
1 Stars
VD
13
Reservoir Dogs
14m. The magnificent arete tapering to a shark's fin hanging in space is a stern test of any cragsman's ability. As appears to...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E8 7a
14
Widdop Wall
14m. The imposing impending wall has runners at half-height again but not much in the way of grips. The finish is especially...
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E9 7a
  • Latest Comments

    For WIDDOP

    Ordinary Route
    "I'd strongly suggest pitching this route before the stomach traverse as otherwis..." 07/Jul

    The Flake Finish
    "1 Star, give me a break! more like 3 stars. its one reason to drive all the way ..." 16/Sep

    Reservoir Dogs
    "I think crucial pebbles came off the crux after the 3rd? ascent and made the rou..." 12/Sep

    The Layback Finish
    "Bold, slopey and a sandbag finish. Stick to the lakeside boulders!" 08/May

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