Adjacent Areas
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No sun
Uphill
15 minsWindy
Originally known as Guinea Pig Buttress (look at the boulder on its crest) this is arguably the finest piece of rock at Widdop - pity that most of the routes are so damn hard. Lower grade climbers can call in for the tough rift of Purgatory Chimney (it's all in the name) or the weird chipped line of holds that is Artificial Route. All of the rest of the routes are the preserve of the talented and bold. Reservoir Dogs and Widdop Wall in particular offer magnificent challenges that see few ascents. Guidebook page 60.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Scuppered 6m. The left-slanting groove was pegged less often than its near neighbour to the right. | Crimpy Rounded | HVS 5c |
2 |
Forty Calorie Cocoa 6m. Trend right to access the shallow scoop then up this warily. | Rounded Fluttery | E3 6a |
3 |
Piton Crack 8m. The left-slanting and once-pegged crack is tenuous and protection is indifferent. | 1 Stars Crimpy | E1 5b |
4 |
Mantel Madness 8m. Trend right to a shallow groove, climb this and finish direct with difficulty, or cop out rightwards. | Technical Fluttery | E3 6a |
5 |
Argon/The Final Step 30m. A girdle of this fine buttress. Start round the arete and traverse out right across the slab and round onto Artificial... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 6a |
6 |
Pulp Friction 20m. The scary left arete of the buttress until relief arrives in the form of Artificial Route and its chipped holds. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E3 6a |
7 |
Sisyphus 20m. Climb direct to the runners on Artificial Route then step right and climb the scoop to the triangular roof. Pass this to... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
8 |
Afternoon Delight 24m. Follow Sisyphus to the junction with Artificial Route then step right and balance across the line that runs across the... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 6a |
9 |
Swift and Sure 20m. One of the best hard routes on Yorkshire Grit offering superb but harrowing climbing crossing Artificial Route at its... | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
10 |
Artificial Route 22m. Bizarre in the extreme but oddly enjoyable too. Follow the chipped ladder to the top left edge of the face then exit round... | 3 Stars Fluttery | VS 4c |
11 |
Purgatory Problem 18m. Follow the old bolt holes to a pair of ancient bolts then move right to the arete. Either escape into the chimney or, much... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
12 |
Purgatory Chimney 16m. The rift is awkward, especially for those of a fuller figure who may dispute the grade of the initial fissure. | 1 Stars | VD |
13 |
Reservoir Dogs 14m. The magnificent arete tapering to a shark's fin hanging in space is a stern test of any cragsman's ability. As appears to... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E8 7a |
14 |
Widdop Wall 14m. The imposing impending wall has runners at half-height again but not much in the way of grips. The finish is especially... | 3 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E9 7a |