Adjacent Areas
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No sun
Uphill
10 minsWindy
Arguably the best bit of rock on the crag with a small but excellent set of climbs covering the grade spectrum. Sadly the buttress is often a bit green, though it comes into its own on hot summer days after a decent dry spell. Guidebook page 66.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Abstract Attitude 20m. The taxing shallow groove in the wall to the left of the arete is gained from the left. The upper wall is easier. | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
2 |
Desert Island Arete 20m. The soaring left arete of the buttress has a highly technical start and a memorable finish, with tough moves to reach the... | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6c |
3 |
DIA Start The start is a classic problem in its own right. Start on the right and improvise around to the left-hand side. | 3 Stars Technical | V7 |
4 |
Dougie Lampkin 20m. An imposing wall which is started by traversing in from Viscount's Route. Climb the wall to a ledge then climb a short... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6c |
5 |
Viscount's Route 20m. Gain the hanging crack from the right by a swift hand-traverse (or direct at 5b) and jam it to a possible stance on the... | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
6 |
Perch Wall 22m. Start as for Viscount's Route then follow the break out towards the arete before climbing to the mid-height ledge. Finish... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | HVS 5b |
7 |
Earl Crack 20m. The wide corner-crack is a must-do line, giving laybacking bridging and jamming, generally with good gear. 5 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
8 |
Earl Buttress 20m. Fine climbing up the face to the right of the crack. Approach from the right and climb the face then layback powerfully up... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E2 5c |
9 |
Evasion 12m. Layback through the bulging start to gain the arete and continue with care. Easier for the lanky. | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E1 5b |
10 |
Trite Rib 12m. The right arete of the buttress is gained from the right. Move onto the front face and balance up the scoop. A Direct... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
11 |
Chockstone Crack 8m. The wide crack in the angle. | Graunchy | S 4a |
