Earl Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Butterfly Crack  |  Tiger Wall >

Trad
No sun
Uphill
10 mins

Arguably the best bit of rock on the crag with a small but excellent set of climbs covering the grade spectrum. Sadly the buttress is often a bit green, though it comes into its own on hot summer days after a decent dry spell. Guidebook page 66.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Abstract Attitude
20m. The taxing shallow groove in the wall to the left of the arete is gained from the left. The upper wall is easier.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
2
Desert Island Arete
20m. The soaring left arete of the buttress has a highly technical start and a memorable finish, with tough moves to reach the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
3
DIA Start
The start is a classic problem in its own right. Start on the right and improvise around to the left-hand side.
 
3 Stars
Technical
V7
4
Dougie Lampkin
20m. An imposing wall which is started by traversing in from Viscount's Route. Climb the wall to a ledge then climb a short...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
5
Viscount's Route
20m. Gain the hanging crack from the right by a swift hand-traverse (or direct at 5b) and jam it to a possible stance on the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
6
Perch Wall
22m. Start as for Viscount's Route then follow the break out towards the arete before climbing to the mid-height ledge. Finish...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
HVS 5b
7
Earl Crack
20m. The wide corner-crack is a must-do line, giving laybacking bridging and jamming, generally with good gear.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
8
Earl Buttress
20m. Fine climbing up the face to the right of the crack. Approach from the right and climb the face then layback powerfully up...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E2 5c
9
Evasion
12m. Layback through the bulging start to gain the arete and continue with care. Easier for the lanky.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E1 5b
10
Trite Rib
12m. The right arete of the buttress is gained from the right. Move onto the front face and balance up the scoop. A Direct...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
11
Chockstone Crack
8m. The wide crack in the angle.
 
Graunchy
S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For EARL CRAG

    Earl Buttress
    "What the hell is going on? A soft touch with pleasant climbing on Yorkshire grit..." 10/Jul

    Mousehole Slab
    "HVS 4c - pretty nasty sandbag at VS and could hurt someone. The move to get your..." 21/Aug

    Earl Crack
    "Big friends required lower down. Good old fashioned VS with some tidy runouts be..." 07/Jun

    Erasor Slab
    "A Pex Hill 5b move!" 03/Aug

    Mousehole Slab
    "It is rather like a mini TPS. Just like TPS it gets overgraded by some too: U..." 01/Jun

    Earl Crack
    "I might be missing something, but I couldn't get any good gear in until over hal..." 20/Apr

    Early Riser
    "2 stars...pah.... this is one of the best micro routes on grit" 17/Feb top50

    Trite Rib
    "direct start is a really good boulder problem with a mat. drop off off traverse ..." 07/Nov

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