Windy Buttress

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The most impressive section of Stoney is the tall Windy Buttress which is home to many superb routes. The fact that they mostly start from the famous promenade of Windy Ledge gives instant exposure from the first move.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Inquisitor
A popular route up the long flake on the left-hand side of the buttress. The lower wall is a bit thin, the bulge is a bit beefy...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
E2 5c
2
Dies Irae
Fine sustained face climbing through the bulges and thin crack above. Finish direct (maybe a bit loose, but much more...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
3
Stuff the Turkey
A thin crack and bulging wall with a thread marks the start. Higher up pass 2 pegs and a bolt before crosing the gridle break.
 
Pumpy
Loose
E4 6b
4
Circe
A good powerful line through the underlaps. An old bolt protects the crux, which is easier for the tall. After that it gets...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E5 6b
5
Gaspera
Start up Kink and traverse left along a break. Pull through the bulge past a bolt and move up then left to finish as for Circe.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
E5 6b
6
Kink
The prominent roof crack is sometimes wet. The hard climbing is reserved for the finishing moves over the bulge. Beware of...
 
2 Stars
Strong
E5 6b
7
Swine Vesicular
Direct on Circe. No gear in place any more.
 E6 6b
8
Kinky
The bulges to the right. There is no lower off, so either finish up the top crack of Kink or jump off onto the last bolt.
 
Technical
7c
9
Kellogg
A fine bouldery wall (remove heart flutter with a mat) leads to the break, then comes the hard bit. Entering and climbing the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
10
Nice in Nice
The route has been rebolted above the break, but the lower-off mailons are on bolts about 3m apart (below the upper break). If...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
11
Kingdom Come
Originally given E4 6a, but lack of attention and subsequent loss of holds made a more serious proposition; now top end E5....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6b
12
Special K
Another scary route suffering from a chronic lack of attention. The initial wall and bulge has poor gear. Above that it is...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
13
The Flakes
A good line following the obvious flaky feature.1) 5c, 20m. Make a hard start up the Windhover arete (good wires) to a peg....
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
14
The Flakes Direct
Adds a good beefy finish to improve the original effort.1) 5c, 20m. Follow The Flakes to a pleasant hanging stance.2)...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
15
Armageddon
Start up the Windhover arete to the base of the jamming crack then head diagonally across the excellent airy upper wall. The...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
16
Windhover
The arete is climbed on its left-hand side and is HVS after the start which can be baffling no matter how many times you have...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
17
Scoop Wall Top 50
The best route at Stoney. It follows the groove to a bulge, which provides the first hard section, to a rest in a recess. Head...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
18
Our Father
A classic of the 60s, which was way ahead of its time.1) 6b, 15m. A boulder-problem start leads to some fiddly flakes and...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
E4 6b
19
Menopause
A neglected climb which was once a classic test-piece.1) 6a, 15m. Make bold moves up the wall from the right-hand end of...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Fluttery
E5 6b
20
Tiger Trot
A short exposed traverse where the ledge disappears. A good combination is to connect it with the top section of Aurora to give...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VD
21
Memnon
1) 5b, 25m. Worthwhile. Start below the buttress, on the track, and climb the long open-book corner to the ledge.2) 5c,...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E2 5c
22
Aurora
An old favourite with good and varied climbing. The first pitch is generally easy, but very bold. The upper corner is the...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
VS 4c
23
Hysterectomy
Technical right-hand finish to Our Father.
 E5 6c
24
Aurora Arete
Start from the stance of Aurora (or do Tiger Trot) climb the exposed arete, starting up the groove and passing the bulge. Some...
 
2 Stars
Loose
HVS 5a
25
Aurora Arete/Tiger Trot
This can be climbed as an alternative top pitch to Aurora but starting from Windy Ledge gives an exciting alternative.1)...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
26
Alcasan
The ubiquitous and excellent traverse (Hard Rock - say no more) which crosses the buttress. Positions throughout are excellent,...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
E2 5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For STONEY MIDDLETON

    Windhover
    "The crucial block at the start - providing an undercut then a foot hold as you d..." 29/Aug

    What the Hell?
    "This is a really good route - even the lower wall is okay - but it isn't 4b. I'd..." 26/May

    Gabriel and the Pearly Gates
    "Returning to Pearly Gates after a few years confirmed my impression that it was ..." 24/Apr top50

    Horizon
    "Worthwhile route, though not worth a star." 22/Apr

    Evasor
    "The length given for p1 here (and in the new Peak Limestone Rockfax for which I ..." 17/Oct top50

    Pygmies Walk Tall
    "Was really impressed with this route though it would benefit from more traffic t..." 24/Sep

    Dies Irae
    "Very little wear on this, compared to many routes at Stoney. Rock still felt gri..." 28/Aug

    Lost Horizon
    "S 3c or HS 4a gives a better idea of the bold nature of the route. Some interest..." 02/Jul

    Compositae Groove
    "Pity about the first pitch but the second is probably the best of it's grade at ..." 16/Jun

    Fe Fi Fo Fum
    "A good one for your mate to do, "it's only HVS..."" 25/Jul

    Windhover
    "Felt a bit loose in places today. The start is hard, but there's a hidden crimp ..." 24/Jul

    Brown Corner
    "Steep and dirty but on big holds all the way. Take some large gear (hexs)" 09/Jul

    The Slurper
    "As mentioned above, first pitch to Slurper is poor. Hard initial moves, especial..." 08/Jul

    Cock-a-leekie Wall
    "Worthwhile route. Tough crux, getting on 6a, on the right of the scoop." 05/Jul

    Special K
    "A poor route. A few poorly protected pulls then a so so E2 5c to finish. The bes..." 27/Jun

    Om
    "HVS 5b" 06/Jun

    Flycatcher
    "...and Flycathcer is spelt Flycatcher!" 04/Jun

    Pickpocket
    "Awesome Route. A full pitch of pump, worth at least 2 stars." 01/Apr

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