Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Up and Down
8 minsWindy
The most impressive section of Stoney is the tall Windy Buttress which is home to many superb routes. The fact that they mostly start from the famous promenade of Windy Ledge gives instant exposure from the first move. Guidebook page 60.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Inquisitor A popular route up the long flake on the left-hand side of the buttress. The lower wall is a bit thin, the bulge is a bit beefy... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Loose | E2 5c |
2 |
Dies Irae Fine sustained face climbing through the bulges and thin crack above. Finish direct (maybe a bit loose, but much more... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
3 |
Stuff the Turkey A thin crack and bulging wall with a thread marks the start. Higher up pass 2 pegs and a bolt before crosing the gridle break. | Pumpy Loose | E4 6b |
4 |
Circe A good powerful line through the underlaps. An old bolt protects the crux, which is easier for the tall. After that it gets... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy | E5 6b |
5 |
Gaspera Start up Kink and traverse left along a break. Pull through the bulge past a bolt and move up then left to finish as for Circe. | 1 Stars Technical Loose | E5 6b |
6 |
Kink The prominent roof crack is sometimes wet. The hard climbing is reserved for the finishing moves over the bulge. Beware of... | 2 Stars Strong | E5 6b |
7 |
Swine Vesicular Direct on Circe. No gear in place any more. | E6 6b | |
8 |
Kinky The bulges to the right. There is no lower off, so either finish up the top crack of Kink or jump off onto the last bolt. | Technical | 7c |
9 |
Kellogg A fine bouldery wall (remove heart flutter with a mat) leads to the break, then comes the hard bit. Entering and climbing the... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6b |
10 |
Nice in Nice The route has been rebolted above the break, but the lower-off mailons are on bolts about 3m apart (below the upper break). If... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6b |
11 |
Kingdom Come Originally given E4 6a, but lack of attention and subsequent loss of holds made a more serious proposition; now top end E5.... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery Loose | E5 6b |
12 |
Special K Another scary route suffering from a chronic lack of attention. The initial wall and bulge has poor gear. Above that it is... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 6a |
13 |
The Flakes A good line following the obvious flaky feature.1) 5c, 20m. Make a hard start up the Windhover arete (good wires) to a peg.... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
14 |
The Flakes Direct Adds a good beefy finish to improve the original effort.1) 5c, 20m. Follow The Flakes to a pleasant hanging stance.2)... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
15 |
Armageddon Start up the Windhover arete to the base of the jamming crack then head diagonally across the excellent airy upper wall. The... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Fluttery | E2 5c |
16 |
Windhover The arete is climbed on its left-hand side and is HVS after the start which can be baffling no matter how many times you have... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E2 5c |
17 |
Scoop Wall Top 50 The best route at Stoney. It follows the groove to a bulge, which provides the first hard section, to a rest in a recess. Head... 9 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
18 |
Our Father A classic of the 60s, which was way ahead of its time.1) 6b, 15m. A boulder-problem start leads to some fiddly flakes and... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Strong | E4 6b |
19 |
Menopause A neglected climb which was once a classic test-piece.1) 6a, 15m. Make bold moves up the wall from the right-hand end of... | 2 Stars Technical Strong Fluttery | E5 6b |
20 |
Tiger Trot A short exposed traverse where the ledge disappears. A good combination is to connect it with the top section of Aurora to give... | 1 Stars Fluttery | VD |
21 |
Memnon 1) 5b, 25m. Worthwhile. Start below the buttress, on the track, and climb the long open-book corner to the ledge.2) 5c,... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery Loose | E2 5c |
22 |
Aurora An old favourite with good and varied climbing. The first pitch is generally easy, but very bold. The upper corner is the... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | VS 4c |
23 |
Hysterectomy Technical right-hand finish to Our Father. | E5 6c | |
24 |
Aurora Arete Start from the stance of Aurora (or do Tiger Trot) climb the exposed arete, starting up the groove and passing the bulge. Some... | 2 Stars Loose | HVS 5a |
25 |
Aurora Arete/Tiger Trot This can be climbed as an alternative top pitch to Aurora but starting from Windy Ledge gives an exciting alternative.1)... 5 user comments | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
26 |
Alcasan The ubiquitous and excellent traverse (Hard Rock - say no more) which crosses the buttress. Positions throughout are excellent,... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Loose | E2 5c |
27 |
Compositae Groove 1) 4b, 28m. Graze up the grass bank to a bush belay.2) 5a, 18m. Climb the groove past a couple of old pegs. At the roof... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5a |
