The Boulders

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Boulder
Sun and Shade
Uphill
5 mins

A huge tilted block, the size of a small planet, home to a small set of hard routes and much bouldering. Although the routes look like extended boulder problems they feel like proper routes when you are trying to access the block's shelving summit. Escape is by down-climbing North Climb (Diff) Guidebook page 100.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Morrell's Wall
A popular problem up the shady leaning wall. Big holds lead to a steep pull on fingery holds. Eliminates abound.
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
V2 5c
2
Overhanging Rib
The steep rib, using the block for your feet. Without the block is V5.
 
1 Stars
Strong
V3 6a
3
B2 Eliminates
Climb the steep face from the flake. As the name suggests, there are loads of eliminates possible.
 
1 Stars
Strong
V1 5b
4
Flying Arete
Start off a small boulder and climb the right-hand side of the arete.
 
2 Stars
V4 6a
5
Stretch Armstrong
Make a huge reach from a low hold under the roof.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
V9
6
Canine
The central line is very hard. The right-hand side of the roof, followed by a hand-traverse leftwards on the pockets, is Sewer...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
V11
7
The Lady
6m. The left arete of the pathward face to a balding top. Low gear isn't much use when you are trying to top out.
 
Rounded
E4 6c
8
The Virgin
12m. Grovel the deep crack rightwards until a pocket and pinch-grip allow the top to be reached. Large gear protects. The...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 6b
9
Jack on Fire
6m. The leaning wall (large cam out right) keeping right of the shallow groove. The exit is very rounded. There are several...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E4 6c
10
Virgin Traverse
Start with feet and hands on the block on the left. Traverse the low break around the corner to a niche. The continuation is V9...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
V4 6b
11
The Gypsy
10m. Climb the arete left to a break - a popular V4 (6a) to this point. Move right then back left above a too-large drop.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 6a
12
Gypus
10m. Climb the south face of the boulder dynamically, trending slightly left to join and finish up The Gypsy.
 
Technical
E3 6b
13
Opus
10m. The centre of the wall is climbed via a set of deep slots to a small overhang and a desperate leftward exit.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6b
14
Magnum Opus
12m. Layback up the flake/ramp and a short crack to join Opus at its desperate exit. The direct start to the left is V9.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
15
Fisher's Stride
14m. Leap onto the back of the boulder from the nearby slab then trend left to a ledge. Step round the arete and continue in...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 5a
16
The Virgin Climb
8m. A short traverse leads left around the south east arete to a line of polished holds up the slab.
 
2 Stars
S 4a
17
Chastity
Climb direct from the start of Virgin Climb.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V3 5c
18
North Face Arete
The excellent north east arete on its left-hand side. The right-hand side is V0 (5a).
 
1 Stars
Technical
V0- 4c
19
In Limbo
From a sitting start, pull over the left-hand side of the roof.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
V5 6c
20
Keel Crack
The central crack is a great strenuous struggle.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
V4 6b
21
The Keel/Fin
The low arete from a pinch, to a chipped hold on the lip. Loads of variations exist including one eliminating the chipped hold!
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
V10
22
Natural Traverse
Start on the nose and traverse uphill along the lip on slopers to join and reverse Sloper Patrol.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
V9
23
Sloper Patrol
Starting at the top of the block, traverse the sloping lip downhill and flop onto the slab at the end. Often done in reverse.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
V5 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For ALMSCLIFF

    Frankland's Green Crack
    "Dirty and very awkward. How long does it take the symptoms of Pigeon-Fancier's ..." 21/Apr top50

    Birdlime Traverse
    "Seems a funny choice to upgrade to HVS - yes it's really hard at that grade, but..." 02/Aug top50

    ‘Arries' Ook
    "Onsighted this and thought it was low in the grade. Tricky moves are low down an..." 06/Oct top50

    South Wall Traverse
    "Polished start isn't great, the top few moves are trickier and steeper than they..." 17/May

    The Big Greeny
    "I held John rope when he made an attempt, he failed to get the top pocket and ba..." 15/Oct top50

    Great Western
    "Agree with the above. This route is pleasant but overhyped. If your technique is..." 07/Jun top50

    South Wall Traverse
    "The polished start is probably the real crux! The upper hard move is using a poo..." 24/May

    Birdlime Traverse
    "Had exactly the same experience Si dH, I reckon the poor rest is the one in the ..." 24/May top50

    North West Girdle
    "A brilliant, rambling adventure." 22/May

    Fluted Columns
    "The lower section has some awkward moves with not much for your hands and with t..." 23/Mar top50

    Z Climb Eliminate
    "Better ones... North West Girdle Frensis Direct Thin Red Line Pillar Front..." 08/Nov top50

    Z Climb Eliminate
    "this is good but not the best. i thought it was not soft touch but maybee i'm we..." 04/Nov top50

    Great Western
    "...ecstatic..." 22/Sep top50

    Birdlime Traverse
    "Where is the poor rest? I had a poor rest in the bird poo but then couldnt see ..." 27/Aug top50

    Overhanging Groove
    "Brainfart at the top and you're cashing a few airmiles in. Excellent gear and no..." 23/Jun top50

    The Nose
    "This is a V0- boulder problem with a scramble to top out not a route. It was a n..." 09/Jun

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