Adjacent Areas
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Boulder
Sun and Shade
Uphill
5 minsWindy
A huge tilted block, the size of a small planet, home to a small set of hard routes and much bouldering. Although the routes look like extended boulder problems they feel like proper routes when you are trying to access the block's shelving summit. Escape is by down-climbing North Climb (Diff) Guidebook page 100.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Morrell's Wall A popular problem up the shady leaning wall. Big holds lead to a steep pull on fingery holds. Eliminates abound. | 3 Stars Crimpy | V2 5c |
2 |
Overhanging Rib The steep rib, using the block for your feet. Without the block is V5. | 1 Stars Strong | V3 6a |
3 |
B2 Eliminates Climb the steep face from the flake. As the name suggests, there are loads of eliminates possible. | 1 Stars Strong | V1 5b |
4 |
Flying Arete Start off a small boulder and climb the right-hand side of the arete. | 2 Stars | V4 6a |
5 |
Stretch Armstrong Make a huge reach from a low hold under the roof. | 1 Stars Reachy Strong | V9 |
6 |
Canine The central line is very hard. The right-hand side of the roof, followed by a hand-traverse leftwards on the pockets, is Sewer... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Strong | V11 |
7 |
The Lady 6m. The left arete of the pathward face to a balding top. Low gear isn't much use when you are trying to top out. | Rounded | E4 6c |
8 |
The Virgin 12m. Grovel the deep crack rightwards until a pocket and pinch-grip allow the top to be reached. Large gear protects. The... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E3 6b |
9 |
Jack on Fire 6m. The leaning wall (large cam out right) keeping right of the shallow groove. The exit is very rounded. There are several... | 1 Stars Rounded | E4 6c |
10 |
Virgin Traverse Start with feet and hands on the block on the left. Traverse the low break around the corner to a niche. The continuation is V9... | 3 Stars Pumpy Rounded | V4 6b |
11 |
The Gypsy 10m. Climb the arete left to a break - a popular V4 (6a) to this point. Move right then back left above a too-large drop. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy Rounded Fluttery | E3 6a |
12 |
Gypus 10m. Climb the south face of the boulder dynamically, trending slightly left to join and finish up The Gypsy. | Technical | E3 6b |
13 |
Opus 10m. The centre of the wall is climbed via a set of deep slots to a small overhang and a desperate leftward exit. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 6b |
14 |
Magnum Opus 12m. Layback up the flake/ramp and a short crack to join Opus at its desperate exit. The direct start to the left is V9. | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6b |
15 |
Fisher's Stride 14m. Leap onto the back of the boulder from the nearby slab then trend left to a ledge. Step round the arete and continue in... | 1 Stars Fluttery | VS 5a |
16 |
The Virgin Climb 8m. A short traverse leads left around the south east arete to a line of polished holds up the slab. | 2 Stars | S 4a |
17 |
Chastity Climb direct from the start of Virgin Climb. | 1 Stars Technical | V3 5c |
18 |
North Face Arete The excellent north east arete on its left-hand side. The right-hand side is V0 (5a). | 1 Stars Technical | V0- 4c |
19 |
In Limbo From a sitting start, pull over the left-hand side of the roof. | 1 Stars Reachy Strong | V5 6c |
20 |
Keel Crack The central crack is a great strenuous struggle. | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | V4 6b |
21 |
The Keel/Fin The low arete from a pinch, to a chipped hold on the lip. Loads of variations exist including one eliminating the chipped hold! | 3 Stars Technical Strong | V10 |
22 |
Natural Traverse Start on the nose and traverse uphill along the lip on slopers to join and reverse Sloper Patrol. | 2 Stars Pumpy | V9 |
23 |
Sloper Patrol Starting at the top of the block, traverse the sloping lip downhill and flop onto the slab at the end. Often done in reverse. | 3 Stars Pumpy | V5 6b |
