Adjacent Areas
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Evening sun
Uphill
5 minsWindy
The Gentlemen's side of the cliff - the North West Face - gets the sun in the afternoon and has some great routes. The left-hand side has a set of classy crack and groove climbs. It can be green after wet weather and it manages to catch any wind that is going. Guidebook page 103.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
All Our Yesterdays 14m. The desperate hanging ramp between the overhangs is traversed from right to left. An old peg provides much needed... | 2 Stars Strong Fluttery | E5 6a |
2 |
Finale Slab 12m. Cross the hanging slab to a tricky exit up a short crack. | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 5b |
3 |
Encore 10m. From the flake (wires) traverse boldly left and pass the lip with difficulty and gymnastics. | 1 Stars Technical | E2 5c |
4 |
First Night 10m. The nose above the flake gives a short and safe struggle. | Technical | E2 6a |
5 |
Cup and Saucer 12m. A polished oddity weaving up the major fault on the left. A mid-height belay is possible. Often used as a descent. | 1 Stars | VD |
6 |
Teaspoon Left-hand Start low and rockover just left of the 'TF' carved in the rock. | 2 Stars Strong | V8 |
7 |
Teaspoon Variation The polished crack is a classic problem. Eliminating the arete on the right makes it an even better V3 (6a). | 2 Stars | V2 5c |
8 |
Gray's Wall A problematic wall. | 1 Stars Technical | V4 6a |
9 |
Z Climb 14m. The steep crack near the left-hand side of the face leads to bulges, zig-zag left then right and finally left again.... | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
10 |
Z Climb Eliminate Top 50 14m. A popular eliminate that is a bit of a soft touch, but varied and superb. Climb a thin crack to the end of the initial... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Crimpy | E1 5b |
11 |
Central Climb Top 50 14m. The rounded zig-zag cracks that split the centre of the left-hand side of the face are both steeper and harder than they... | 3 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
12 |
Overhanging Groove Top 50 16m. The shallow overhanging groove in the left wall of Parsons' Chimney proves to be quite superb. Layback the lower section... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy | HVS 5a |
13 |
Parson's Chimney Top 50 16m. The rift in the centre of the face is a classic two pitch battle. The lower squeeze can be avoided by starting up... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Graunchy | HS 4b |
