Central Climb

Adjacent Areas
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Evening sun
Uphill
5 mins

The Gentlemen's side of the cliff - the North West Face - gets the sun in the afternoon and has some great routes. The left-hand side has a set of classy crack and groove climbs. It can be green after wet weather and it manages to catch any wind that is going. Guidebook page 103.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
All Our Yesterdays
14m. The desperate hanging ramp between the overhangs is traversed from right to left. An old peg provides much needed...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E5 6a
2
Finale Slab
12m. Cross the hanging slab to a tricky exit up a short crack.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5b
3
Encore
10m. From the flake (wires) traverse boldly left and pass the lip with difficulty and gymnastics.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
4
First Night
10m. The nose above the flake gives a short and safe struggle.
 
Technical
E2 6a
5
Cup and Saucer
12m. A polished oddity weaving up the major fault on the left. A mid-height belay is possible. Often used as a descent.
 
1 Stars
VD
6
Teaspoon Left-hand
Start low and rockover just left of the 'TF' carved in the rock.
 
2 Stars
Strong
V8
7
Teaspoon Variation
The polished crack is a classic problem. Eliminating the arete on the right makes it an even better V3 (6a).
 
2 Stars
V2 5c
8
Gray's Wall
A problematic wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V4 6a
9
Z Climb
14m. The steep crack near the left-hand side of the face leads to bulges, zig-zag left then right and finally left again....
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
10
Z Climb Eliminate Top 50
14m. A popular eliminate that is a bit of a soft touch, but varied and superb. Climb a thin crack to the end of the initial...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
11
Central Climb Top 50
14m. The rounded zig-zag cracks that split the centre of the left-hand side of the face are both steeper and harder than they...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
12
Overhanging Groove Top 50
16m. The shallow overhanging groove in the left wall of Parsons' Chimney proves to be quite superb. Layback the lower section...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
13
Parson's Chimney Top 50
16m. The rift in the centre of the face is a classic two pitch battle. The lower squeeze can be avoided by starting up...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For ALMSCLIFF

    Frankland's Green Crack
    "Dirty and very awkward. How long does it take the symptoms of Pigeon-Fancier's ..." 21/Apr top50

    Birdlime Traverse
    "Seems a funny choice to upgrade to HVS - yes it's really hard at that grade, but..." 02/Aug top50

    ‘Arries' Ook
    "Onsighted this and thought it was low in the grade. Tricky moves are low down an..." 06/Oct top50

    South Wall Traverse
    "Polished start isn't great, the top few moves are trickier and steeper than they..." 17/May

    The Big Greeny
    "I held John rope when he made an attempt, he failed to get the top pocket and ba..." 15/Oct top50

    Great Western
    "Agree with the above. This route is pleasant but overhyped. If your technique is..." 07/Jun top50

    South Wall Traverse
    "The polished start is probably the real crux! The upper hard move is using a poo..." 24/May

    Birdlime Traverse
    "Had exactly the same experience Si dH, I reckon the poor rest is the one in the ..." 24/May top50

    North West Girdle
    "A brilliant, rambling adventure." 22/May

    Fluted Columns
    "The lower section has some awkward moves with not much for your hands and with t..." 23/Mar top50

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