Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Uphill
5 minsWindy
This face is ever popular with a great selection of short routes that are easier than most offerings on the cliff. There are several worthwhile, if slippery, cracks here and pleasantly technical face climbs in between. There are also two steep and intense bouldering areas with many classic and popular problems. Guidebook page 108.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Pothole 12m. The initial difficulties on the direct route can be avoided by a pleasant traverse in from the top of the slabby boulder... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VD |
2 |
Jam-pot Start low, use small holds to gain a good jam then the pothole. | 1 Stars | V2 5c |
3 |
Pothole Direct 10m. The left-most crack in the wall has a butch and brutal overhang to start and then rapidly eases. | 1 Stars Technical Strong | VS 5b |
4 |
The Traditional Climb 10m. The steep zig-zagging central crack has plenty of jams and protection but not too many positive holds. The central section... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
5 |
Forgotten Wall 10m. The narrow wall is climbed left then right with increasing difficulty to the top break at which point things ease a... | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6c |
6 |
Bird's Nest Crack Top 50 10m. The well polished right-hand crack is the most amenable of the three fissures here and gives a good, perfectly protected... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | HS 4b |
7 |
High Level Traverse 16m. Take BNC to its final break and follow this to a finish up The Pothole. Large cams are helpful. Can be done the other way... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
8 |
Thompson's Traverse 20m. Climb the thin crack to its end then head left by more strangely satisfying sideways shuffling all the way to The Pothole.... | 1 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5b |
9 |
Bird's Nest Variation 10m. Good moves lead up the thin crack and the wall above and left, until the protrusion on the original route can be grasped. | 2 Stars Reachy | VS 4c |
10 |
Demon Wall Top 50 12m. The thin crack provides an awkward start (primes the pump) then step right to a flake in the bulge. Climb leftwards to a... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Reachy Rounded | HVS 5a |
11 |
Stu's Roof Left-hand Gain the two tiny crimps from an undercut on the left. | 1 Stars Strong | V8 |
12 |
Stu's Roof A much harder version over the roof using just the two crimps. | 2 Stars Technical Strong | V10 |
13 |
Demon Wall Roof The centre of the roof is usually well chalked. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong | V7 |
14 |
Dolphin Belly Slap The edge of the roof, craft and cunning helps. | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | V6 6c |
15 |
Dolphinian 10m. The right arete of the wall has a taxing finish with a long stretch for a juggy flute. | 1 Stars Reachy | E1 5b |
16 |
Three Chockstones Chimney 10m. The deep scoured rift is one of the the easiest routes on the cliff. It offers a slippery descent route or a reasonable... | 1 Stars | M |
17 |
Crack and Wall 12m. The flake in the right-hand wall of the chimney leads to the overhangs. Shuffle left on flutings around into the chimney... | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
18 |
Acetabulum 12m. The roof-crack above the final traverse of Crack and Wall is hard to enter. The name refers to the hip joint, a clue as... | Technical | E1 5c |
19 |
The Crucifix The inverted cross-shaped crack in the side wall is a classic boulder problem and is quite tough at the grade unless you are... | 2 Stars Technical | V1 5c |
20 |
Crucifix Arete The arete direct. | 2 Stars Technical | V3 6a |
21 |
Pebble Wall Top 50 A classic using tiny pebbles on the face above the roof. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Reachy Technical | V5 6b |
22 |
Pebble Wall Variation The pebble-less wall just left of the crack requires a long reach. | 3 Stars Reachy | V7 |
23 |
Rectum Rift 10m. Climb Pebble Wall to the break and then the hanging ‘arse' in the roof by long reaches and rounded pulls. There is gear up... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Rounded | E3 6b |
24 |
Right Cheeky 10m. The desperate rounded bulging roof to the right of Rectum Rift. Apparently it is "only E6 if you don't fall off"! | 1 Stars Technical Rounded Fluttery | E7 6c |
25 |
Central Crack 10m. The well-scoured and kinked crack is an archetypal grit trip - get thrashing. | 1 Stars Graunchy | HS 4b |
26 |
Jacob's Ladder 10m. The wall between the two prominent cracks has a slippery start, good runners and a delicate finale. It feels a little... | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
27 |
Stomach Traverse 10m. The wide crack with a kink at two thirds height is another slippery customer. Originally it started up Central Crack, and... | 1 Stars Rounded | VS 4c |
28 |
Fence Buttress 10m. Carefully use the stone wall to start a tricky sequence first left and then right to reach a flake, then balance up the... | Technical | VS 5b |
