South Face

Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
5 mins
Uphill

This face is ever popular with a great selection of short routes that are easier than most offerings on the cliff. There are several worthwhile, if slippery, cracks here and pleasantly technical face climbs in between. There are also two steep and intense bouldering areas with many classic and popular problems. Guidebook page 108.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Pothole
12m. The initial difficulties on the direct route can be avoided by a pleasant traverse in from the top of the slabby boulder...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
2
Jam-pot
Start low, use small holds to gain a good jam then the pothole.
 
1 Stars
V2 5c
3
Pothole Direct
10m. The left-most crack in the wall has a butch and brutal overhang to start and then rapidly eases.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
VS 5b
4
The Traditional Climb
10m. The steep zig-zagging central crack has plenty of jams and protection but not too many positive holds. The central section...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
5
Forgotten Wall
10m. The narrow wall is climbed left then right with increasing difficulty to the top break at which point things ease a...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
6
Bird's Nest Crack Top 50
10m. The well polished right-hand crack is the most amenable of the three fissures here and gives a good, perfectly protected...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HS 4b
7
High Level Traverse
16m. Take BNC to its final break and follow this to a finish up The Pothole. Large cams are helpful. Can be done the other way...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
8
Thompson's Traverse
20m. Climb the thin crack to its end then head left by more strangely satisfying sideways shuffling all the way to The Pothole....
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5b
9
Bird's Nest Variation
10m. Good moves lead up the thin crack and the wall above and left, until the protrusion on the original route can be grasped.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
VS 4c
10
Demon Wall Top 50
12m. The thin crack provides an awkward start (primes the pump) then step right to a flake in the bulge. Climb leftwards to a...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
HVS 5a
11
Stu's Roof Left-hand
Gain the two tiny crimps from an undercut on the left.
 
1 Stars
Strong
V8 7B+
12
Stu's Roof
A much harder version over the roof using just the two crimps.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
V10 7C+
13
Demon Wall Roof
The centre of the roof is usually well chalked.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
V7 7A+
14
Dolphin Belly Slap
The edge of the roof, craft and cunning helps.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
V6 7A
15
Dolphinian
10m. The right arete of the wall has a taxing finish with a long stretch for a juggy flute.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1 5b
16
Three Chockstones Chimney
10m. The deep scoured rift is one of the the easiest routes on the cliff. It offers a slippery descent route or a reasonable...
 
1 Stars
M
17
Crack and Wall
12m. The flake in the right-hand wall of the chimney leads to the overhangs. Shuffle left on flutings around into the chimney...
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
18
Acetabulum
12m. The roof-crack above the final traverse of Crack and Wall is hard to enter. The name refers to the hip joint, a clue as...
 
Technical
E1 5c
19
The Crucifix
The inverted cross-shaped crack in the side wall is a classic boulder problem and is quite tough at the grade unless you are...
 
2 Stars
Technical
V1 5b
20
Crucifix Arete
The arete direct.
 
2 Stars
Technical
V3 6A
21
Pebble Wall Top 50
A classic using tiny pebbles on the face above the roof.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
V5 6C
22
Pebble Wall Variation
The pebble-less wall just left of the crack requires a long reach.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
V7 7A+
23
Rectum Rift
10m. Climb Pebble Wall to the break and then the hanging ‘arse' in the roof by long reaches and rounded pulls. There is gear up...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E3 6b
24
Right Cheeky
10m. The desperate rounded bulging roof to the right of Rectum Rift. Apparently it is "only E6 if you don't fall off"!
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E7 6c
25
Central Crack
10m. The well-scoured and kinked crack is an archetypal grit trip - get thrashing.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
26
Jacob's Ladder
10m. The wall between the two prominent cracks has a slippery start, good runners and a delicate finale. It feels a little...
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
27
Stomach Traverse
10m. The wide crack with a kink at two thirds height is another slippery customer. Originally it started up Central Crack, and...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
28
Fence Buttress
10m. Carefully use the stone wall to start a tricky sequence first left and then right to reach a flake, then balance up the...
 
Technical
VS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For ALMSCLIFF

    Frankland's Green Crack
    "Dirty and very awkward. How long does it take the symptoms of Pigeon-Fancier's ..." 21/Apr top50

    Birdlime Traverse
    "Seems a funny choice to upgrade to HVS - yes it's really hard at that grade, but..." 02/Aug top50

    ‘Arries' Ook
    "Onsighted this and thought it was low in the grade. Tricky moves are low down an..." 06/Oct top50

    South Wall Traverse
    "Polished start isn't great, the top few moves are trickier and steeper than they..." 17/May

    The Big Greeny
    "I held John rope when he made an attempt, he failed to get the top pocket and ba..." 15/Oct top50

    Great Western
    "Agree with the above. This route is pleasant but overhyped. If your technique is..." 07/Jun top50

    South Wall Traverse
    "The polished start is probably the real crux! The upper hard move is using a poo..." 24/May

    Birdlime Traverse
    "Had exactly the same experience Si dH, I reckon the poor rest is the one in the ..." 24/May top50

    North West Girdle
    "A brilliant, rambling adventure." 22/May

    Fluted Columns
    "The lower section has some awkward moves with not much for your hands and with t..." 23/Mar top50

    Z Climb Eliminate
    "Better ones... North West Girdle Frensis Direct Thin Red Line Pillar Front..." 08/Nov top50

    Z Climb Eliminate
    "this is good but not the best. i thought it was not soft touch but maybee i'm we..." 04/Nov top50

    Great Western
    "...ecstatic..." 22/Sep top50

    Birdlime Traverse
    "Where is the poor rest? I had a poor rest in the bird poo but then couldnt see ..." 27/Aug top50

    Overhanging Groove
    "Brainfart at the top and you're cashing a few airmiles in. Excellent gear and no..." 23/Jun top50

    The Nose
    "This is a V0- boulder problem with a scramble to top out not a route. It was a n..." 09/Jun

    Overhanging Groove
    "seemed like bog standard hvs to me, steep but with good gear" 05/Mar top50

    Western Front
    "A reachy sign would be good on this one, I couldnt reach the jamming crack from ..." 24/Feb top50

    Great Western
    "I'm sorry but this route is nowhere near as good or as hard as suicide wall, rig..." 18/Feb top50

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