Black Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill
5 mins

The section of cliff beyond the stone wall is a favourite sheltering spot for cows. In wet winter weather an unsavoury pool sometimes forms under it, precluding using jumping off as an escape route, in which case you may well really be in the ****! Guidebook page 110.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dreamland
Link the two distant breaks in the wall just left of the crack.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
V7
2
South Chimney Layback
12m. Jam the steep narrow crack then layback the flake rightwards to an easy amble up the final section of South Chimney.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4c
3
Shuffle Crack
12m. From the top of the initial crack of South Chimney Layback, continue up the flake then shuffle left along the rounded...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Graunchy
E1 5c
4
China Syndrome
10m. The roof above Shuffle Crack is climbed (infrequently) using a flake and little else. The route remains amongst the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 7a
5
The Slab
The polished ramps are a popular and frustrating problem.
 
1 Stars
V2 5c
6
The Wall
The glossy pockets are a touch easier. It is V5 without the pockets.
 
1 Stars
V1 5b
7
South Chimney
10m. The unmistakable rift is constricted and as polished as the other low grade routes hereabouts. The upper section is...
1 user comment
 ??
8
Yellow Wall
14m. From just below the top of South Chimney crawl left along the rounded break (cams in the depths) to escape.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
E2 5c
9
The Nose
The short arete to a break. The left-hand side of the arete without the pocket is V6. The right-hand side of the arete is also...
 
3 Stars
V3 6a
10
South Wall Traverse
14m. To the right of the chimney is a narrow ramp on the wall. Climb this and traverse out left onto the arete. Trend right up...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
11
Birdlime Traverse Top 50
18m. Follow South Wall Traverse to the bulges but step down and traverse awkwardly rightwards below these to reach a poor rest...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5b
12
‘Arries' Ook Top 50
12m. From the ramp used by the previous two climbs, traverse delicately right then climb to the bulges and the first runners. A...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E4 6a
13
Black Wall Eliminate Top 50
14m. Start (pond permitting) at a large flake and gain a standing position with difficulty. Pull up the wall then swing left to...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
E2 5c
14
Black Wall
10m. Start up blocks to the right of the pool. Pass a bulge and continue until it is possible to move left to an uncomfortable...
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For ALMSCLIFF

    Frankland's Green Crack
    "Dirty and very awkward. How long does it take the symptoms of Pigeon-Fancier's ..." 21/Apr top50

    Birdlime Traverse
    "Seems a funny choice to upgrade to HVS - yes it's really hard at that grade, but..." 02/Aug top50

    ‘Arries' Ook
    "Onsighted this and thought it was low in the grade. Tricky moves are low down an..." 06/Oct top50

    South Wall Traverse
    "Polished start isn't great, the top few moves are trickier and steeper than they..." 17/May

    The Big Greeny
    "I held John rope when he made an attempt, he failed to get the top pocket and ba..." 15/Oct top50

    Great Western
    "Agree with the above. This route is pleasant but overhyped. If your technique is..." 07/Jun top50

    South Wall Traverse
    "The polished start is probably the real crux! The upper hard move is using a poo..." 24/May

    Birdlime Traverse
    "Had exactly the same experience Si dH, I reckon the poor rest is the one in the ..." 24/May top50

    North West Girdle
    "A brilliant, rambling adventure." 22/May

    Fluted Columns
    "The lower section has some awkward moves with not much for your hands and with t..." 23/Mar top50

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