Saint's Wall

Adjacent Areas
< The Quarry  |  Overhanging Buttress >

Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Level
Sheltered

The wide wall split by a narrow chimney has a good selection of lower grade climbs and one or two harder ones. This buttress is always popular, or at least the easier classics are! Belays at the top of the cliff are awkward, stout gorse stumps are adequate, or run a rope to the distant tree.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Parity
12m. Start up the groove and move left at the bulges to the crack system. Follow this left then back right to a rounded exit.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HS 4b
2
Trinity
12m. Continue up the crack system (small wires) to a ledge with a useful gorse bush. Finish up the awkward groove.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
3
Waverly Wafer
14m. Climb the crack in the side wall of the face to the top ledge then finish up the rounded arete on the right with...
 
Rounded
E2 5c
4
Waverly Variation
14m. Follow Waverly Wafer to the last bulge then sneak off right into the chimney.
 VS 4c
5
Temptation
12m. The wide and straightforward chimney.
 
1 Stars
M
6
Threadbare
12m. The slab right of the chimney has a tricky lower section and a rounded exit.
 
Rounded
HVS 5a
7
Pink Socks on Top
12m. From the cave/hole, climb to the upper break, mantel through the heather and finish up the wall.
 E1 5b
8
Saint's Progress
16m. Devious but logical. From the cave/hole traverse the break right to a shallow groove and follow this to the break....
 
1 Stars
Technical
S 4b
9
Holy Mother of Inspiration (don't fail me now)
12m. Climb the face (hard and serious even with distant side-runners) to the ledges. Finish up the wall.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 6a
10
St. Ivel Top 50
12m. Trend right to the shallow green groove, and climb this on its right-hand side to the ledges. Finish up the wall on small...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
11
Litany
12m. Pull rightwards though the overhangs to a ledge, finish up the crack though the upper bulges.
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
12
Saint's Arete
12m. Power through the bulges to access the right arete, then finish up the groove above.
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For KYLOE OUT THE WOOD

    Back to the Egg
    "Awesome route, varied and pumpy." 16/May

    Wasted Time
    "a good climb but as i didn't have a guide book i was unsure where to go. Did the..." 19/Oct

    Wilfred Prickles
    "Giving this the same grade as Devil's Edge (Quarry), makes the HVS grade bracket..." 01/Jul top50

    Wilfred Prickles
    "don't mind this being graded HVS 5a, but when you get on some other HVS 5a's whi..." 11/Jun top50

    Trinity
    "A bit of a sandbag, especially when sandy. Good gear but several awkward moves. ..." 21/Apr

    Chris's Arete
    "Lovely airy stuff. A good line up an obvious feature. At least 2 stars surely." 11/Dec

    Wilfred Prickles
    "VS 4c but sustained at that level." 02/Oct top50

    Flake Crack
    "more fun than a barrel of monkeys. The rightward exit up the small groove is nic..." 12/Sep top50

    Wilfred Prickles
    "Worth HVS for the onsight. Very easy to pump out placing the gear." 12/Sep top50

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