Overhanging Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Saint's Wall  |  Flake Crack >

Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
10 mins
Sheltered

A fine buttress, the tallest on the whole crag, towering above the arrival point of the main path. Generally the routes are steep and strenuous, though the mid-height ledge can be used as a breather, or a place to call up the second and suggest it is their turn for a bit of leading. Guidebook page 344.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Easy Traverse
12m. An easy line to nowhere. Follow the flakes rightwards from the left arete. Belay on the ledge then escape right.
 D
2
Cloister Wall Top 50
22m. Quite high in the grade. An indifferent start leads to a grand finale. Climb rightwards to the ledge then move back left...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
3
Lost Property
20m. Pull over the bulge and climb to the ledge (possible stance). Then continue through the upper bulges (loose block) and up...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
HVS 5a
4
Hot Spring
20m. Pull through the roof to reach the flutings then climb these with difficulty to the ledge - possible stance. Follow the...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
E3 6a
5
Birdlime Crack
8m. The juggy crack (good gear) to the ledge. Escape right.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVD 4a
6
The Elevator
10m. A fine exposed pitch on the upper tier. Climb a ladder of good holds to the break and scoot left to a good rest before...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
7
Coldstream Corner
18m. A strenuous classic that is usually split into two pitches. Trend right to climb the short crack to the ledge. Climb the...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
8
Penitent's Walk
18m. Climb the crack then trend right and climb to the ledge (4c). The upper wall is climbed to the roof where a good jug...
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
9
Albatross
18m. The big roof above the half-height ledge is well named.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
E6 6c
  • Latest Comments

    For KYLOE OUT THE WOOD

    Back to the Egg
    "Awesome route, varied and pumpy." 16/May

    Wasted Time
    "a good climb but as i didn't have a guide book i was unsure where to go. Did the..." 19/Oct

    Wilfred Prickles
    "Giving this the same grade as Devil's Edge (Quarry), makes the HVS grade bracket..." 01/Jul top50

    Wilfred Prickles
    "don't mind this being graded HVS 5a, but when you get on some other HVS 5a's whi..." 11/Jun top50

    Trinity
    "A bit of a sandbag, especially when sandy. Good gear but several awkward moves. ..." 21/Apr

    Chris's Arete
    "Lovely airy stuff. A good line up an obvious feature. At least 2 stars surely." 11/Dec

    Wilfred Prickles
    "VS 4c but sustained at that level." 02/Oct top50

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