Adjacent Areas
< Medusa Bay | Tower of Babel >
At some stage every keen climber will find themselves below this wall contemplating an ascent of the notorious Dead Banana Crack or Bitterfingers; these routes should be on every serious climber's To Do List. Conditions - The wall is well-sheltered in windy weather and can stay dry in the rain, but it is likely to be dank in the depths of winter even though there is no seepage. In the summer the trees used to give shade, though most have been felled now. Guidebook page 58.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Belinda The crack and groove in the left wall of the main angle give a bold pitch. A side-runner makes the route a safer E3. | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E4 6a |
2 |
Froth A polished old favourite with a first pitch which is like climbing a bar of soap. The second has some fine positions.1)... 9 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
3 |
Wallop Escape out left from the belay on Froth. | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
4 |
The Great Leveller Direct on Bitter Fingers. | E6 6b | |
5 |
Mottled Wall 18m. The wall just right has spaced gear and the odd rattly hold. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |
6 |
Dead Banana Crack Top 50 A popular tick which has a reputation for sorting people out. The initial polished moves stop many attempts - succeed on these... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
7 |
Bitterfingers Top 50 One of the classic test-pieces of the Peak which is a 'must do'. Polish is no excuse since it has been slippery for many years.... 10 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
8 |
Fe Fi Fo Fum The very polished curving crack and arete. 10 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy Rounded | HVS 5a |
9 |
Okra The substance of this route is the wall between Bitterfingers and the arete. It was originally started up Fe Fi Fo Fum, but is... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Pumpy | E4 6a |
10 |
Beanstalk The arete has good layaway moves and decent gear where it really matters. | E3 5c | |