Bitterfingers

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

At some stage every keen climber will find themselves below this wall contemplating an ascent of the notorious Dead Banana Crack or Bitterfingers; these routes should be on every serious climber's To Do List. Conditions - The wall is well-sheltered in windy weather and can stay dry in the rain, but it is likely to be dank in the depths of winter even though there is no seepage. In the summer the trees used to give shade, though most have been felled now. Guidebook page 58.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Belinda
The crack and groove in the left wall of the main angle give a bold pitch. A side-runner makes the route a safer E3.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
2
Froth
A polished old favourite with a first pitch which is like climbing a bar of soap. The second has some fine positions.1)...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
3
Wallop
Escape out left from the belay on Froth.
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
4
The Great Leveller
Direct on Bitter Fingers.
 E6 6b
5
Mottled Wall
18m. The wall just right has spaced gear and the odd rattly hold.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
6
Dead Banana Crack Top 50
A popular tick which has a reputation for sorting people out. The initial polished moves stop many attempts - succeed on these...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
7
Bitterfingers Top 50
One of the classic test-pieces of the Peak which is a 'must do'. Polish is no excuse since it has been slippery for many years....
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
8
Fe Fi Fo Fum
The very polished curving crack and arete.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
HVS 5a
9
Okra
The substance of this route is the wall between Bitterfingers and the arete. It was originally started up Fe Fi Fo Fum, but is...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E4 6a
10
Beanstalk
The arete has good layaway moves and decent gear where it really matters.
 E3 5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For STONEY MIDDLETON

    What the Hell?
    "This is a really good route - even the lower wall is okay - but it isn't 4b. I'd..." 26/May

    Gabriel and the Pearly Gates
    "Returning to Pearly Gates after a few years confirmed my impression that it was ..." 24/Apr top50

    Horizon
    "Worthwhile route, though not worth a star." 22/Apr

    Evasor
    "The length given for p1 here (and in the new Peak Limestone Rockfax for which I ..." 17/Oct top50

    Pygmies Walk Tall
    "Was really impressed with this route though it would benefit from more traffic t..." 24/Sep

    Dies Irae
    "Very little wear on this, compared to many routes at Stoney. Rock still felt gri..." 28/Aug

    Lost Horizon
    "S 3c or HS 4a gives a better idea of the bold nature of the route. Some interest..." 02/Jul

    Compositae Groove
    "Pity about the first pitch but the second is probably the best of it's grade at ..." 16/Jun

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