Bitterfingers

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Early morning sun
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

At some stage every keen climber will find themselves below this wall contemplating an ascent of the notorious Dead Banana Crack or Bitterfingers; these routes should be on every serious climber's To Do List. Conditions - The wall is well-sheltered in windy weather and can stay dry in the rain, but it is likely to be dank in the depths of winter even though there is no seepage. In the summer the trees used to give shade, though most have been felled now.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Belinda
The crack and groove in the left wall of the main angle give a bold pitch. A side-runner makes the route a safer E3.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
2
Froth
A polished old favourite with a first pitch which is like climbing a bar of soap. The second has some fine...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS
3
Wallop
Escape out left from the belay on Froth.
 
1 Stars
HS
4
The Great Leveller
Direct on Bitter Fingers.
 E6 6b
5
Mottled Wall
18m. The wall just right has spaced gear and the odd rattly hold.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4
6
Dead Banana Crack Top 50
A popular tick which has a reputation for sorting people out. The initial polished moves stop many attempts - succeed on these...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E1
7
Bitterfingers Top 50
One of the classic test-pieces of the Peak which is a 'must do'. Polish is no excuse since it has been slippery for many years....
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4
8
Fe Fi Fo Fum
The very polished curving crack and arete.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
HVS
9
Okra
The substance of this route is the wall between Bitterfingers and the arete. It was originally started up Fe Fi Fo Fum, but is...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E4
10
Beanstalk
The arete has good layaway moves and decent gear where it really matters.
 E3
11
Augean
The crack right of the arete is quite steep and exhibits that Stoney oddity of being polished and loose at the same time....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
VS
12
Hercules
Start on the right and climb to a scary mantel onto a ledge; a runner in the corner and a second belayer out left are...
 
Fluttery
E4
13
Ivy Grotto Direct
The long groove is a fine line with some interesting rock but the name is becoming more apt as the years roll by.
 HVS
14
Mineshaft
The deep rift over to the right is mostly used as a way down, though it gives an easy bit of chimneying.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
M
15
Tantalus
To the right of Mineshaft (off the topo) is a rounded cave at 6m.Climb to the cave, traverse right for a couple of metres...
 
Rounded
HS