Space and Deception Buttresses

Adjacent Areas
< Flake Crack  |  Slab and Wall & Twin Cracks >

Trad
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Level
Sheltered

A pair of contrasting buttresses: Space is home to one easy classic and some high and wild offerings that tackle the tiered overhangs above the trees. The adjacent Deception with its easier climbs on both of its facets is much the more popular venue as witnessed by the erosion at the base of the routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Christmas Tree Arete
14m. A good easier climb. Follow the crack towards the overhang. Step left into a groove which leads pleasantly to the pine.
 
1 Stars
VD
2
Direct Finish
14m. Jam the short lived leaning crack.
 
Pumpy
VS 4c
3
Gargarin's Groove Top 50
14m. Steep and exhilarating. Move right from the crack to access the hanging groove which is followed with interest.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Loose
HVS 5a
4
Elder Brother
14m. An arduous outing round the left-hand side of the Space roofs. Climb into and up the hanging corner and a bridged rest....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Fluttery
E4 6b
5
First Born Top 50
14m. Fine and exciting climbing through the big roofs. Approach from the right and cross the first overhang to the second one....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6b
6
Spacewalk
12m. The hanging left arete of the face is gained from the face on the right. Climb a groove to a big spike runner, step down...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5c
7
West Wall Groove
8m. The short groove in the upper section of the wall.
 VS 5a
8
Deception Wall
10m. Pull onto the wall left of the overhangs and climb direct, generally on good holds, though it is quite sustained and...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4c
9
Deceiver
10m. The wall left of the arete is sustained and one or two of the holds feel a bit snappy.
1 user comment
 
Crimpy
HVS 5b
10
Deception Crack
10m. The groove gives an awkward but well protected central section. Exit right on jugs.
 
2 Stars
Technical
HS 4b
11
Wilfred Prickles Top 50
10m. The centre of the fluted face is sustained, with tricky moves to the break. Finish steeply on huge holds. Low in the...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
12
Fakir's Crack
10m. The flake-crack on the right-hand side of the wall.
 VD
13
Fakir's Groove
10m. Around the arete is a deep groove.
 VD
14
Fakir's Slab
10m. Climb the short groove and the flat slabby rib above.
 
1 Stars
HVD
15
Slab and Groove
12m. The left-hand side of the slab is precarious and balancy. The shallow upper groove is steep and awkward - crimp or...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
VS 5a
16
Slab and Wall
12m. Balance up the right-hand side of the slab then follow the curving crack to access the right-hand crack in the upper wall.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For KYLOE OUT THE WOOD

    Back to the Egg
    "Awesome route, varied and pumpy." 16/May

    Wasted Time
    "a good climb but as i didn't have a guide book i was unsure where to go. Did the..." 19/Oct

    Wilfred Prickles
    "Giving this the same grade as Devil's Edge (Quarry), makes the HVS grade bracket..." 01/Jul top50

    Wilfred Prickles
    "don't mind this being graded HVS 5a, but when you get on some other HVS 5a's whi..." 11/Jun top50

    Trinity
    "A bit of a sandbag, especially when sandy. Good gear but several awkward moves. ..." 21/Apr

    Chris's Arete
    "Lovely airy stuff. A good line up an obvious feature. At least 2 stars surely." 11/Dec

    Wilfred Prickles
    "VS 4c but sustained at that level." 02/Oct top50

    Flake Crack
    "more fun than a barrel of monkeys. The rightward exit up the small groove is nic..." 12/Sep top50

    Wilfred Prickles
    "Worth HVS for the onsight. Very easy to pump out placing the gear." 12/Sep top50

    Back to the Egg
    "Deserves a star at least. As good as anything else of this grade on the crag." 03/Sep

    Wilfred Prickles
    "Lovely climb. I'd probably agree with HVS although it is probably in line with ..." 09/Aug top50

    First Born
    "Easier than elder brother, and still really good. Big cam above the roof in the ..." 26/Mar top50

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