Stankill

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill
Windy

A small area based around a deep gully and the slabby rock to the right. The area isn't very popular, usually just the odd passing team calling in for a quick tick or two
Conditions The crag faces west and offers shade until early afternoon - it can got hot here in the evenings and the sunsets are always spectacular. The routes dry quickly after rain and it can be windy.
Approach - Park by or opposite the Mermaid Statue - almost opposite the Hotel Philoxena. The track starts here and runs up to a gate then a prominent olive tree before heading out left and toiling up the scree path to the welcoming shade and the huge jutting buttress just left of Grande Grotta. Scramble out right along a vague path until below the wall. Alternatively use the Poets' Approach up the path starting up a short steep road beside the blue Lambrino Apts. It runs up the slope rightwards and then up into an open gully (hornets in the high season) to arrive at the right-hand side of the cliff.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Titan
The first of a trio on the grey left-hand wall of the gully - the slabby face is sharp.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
2
Duo
Good value and better than it looks though rather close to Titan in places.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6a+
3
Stankill
The best of the trio of routes on the left wall of the gully.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
4
String
Bridge then grovel - an oddity!
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
4a
5
Krackholy
The long left-hand extension above String - not popular.
 
2 Stars
7c
6
Lyrix
The right-hand extension above String is okay and does get done.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b
7
Zack
A hard first move, and sharp rock but decent climbing.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
8
Plagnolis
The right-hand extension to Zack is worth the effort.
 
2 Stars
6c+
9
Tonic
The direct line up the right-hand wall of the gully. Some decent technical climbing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
10
Noynoy
Technical and interesting climbing through weird sloping rock, up to a shared lower-off with Tonic.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
6b
11
Sibylle
The first of the slabby routes on the front face of this area is better than it looks.
 
2 Stars
5a
12
Hugox
Pleasant enough.
 
2 Stars
5c
13
Paulix
The best of this bunch.
 
3 Stars
5c
14
Bobodo
The right-hand route on the slab passes between vegetation. The lower bulge is tricky, the upper slab is easier.
 
2 Stars
6a
15
Gunpowder Plot
A right-trending line requires good footwork.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6b+
16
Gunpowder Plot Extension
The long (40m) extension is superb.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
17
Paparazzi
Short, sharp, bouldery and tricky to on-sight.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
18
Zaros
A tricky fat tufa leads to a difficult traverse left to cross the bulge. There is a short extension at the same grade.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
19
Stelios
A superb varied and long pitch up the left-hand side of the deep bay. A tricky groove, steep bulge and balancy ramp are...
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a+
20
Justice is its Own Reward
A fine piece of classic grey rock slab climbing.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
21
Fainéantdertal
A steep and fingery pitch.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
8a+
22
La Flemme Olympic
Technical and reachy.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b+
23
Perskindol
A steep juggy pitch up the wall just left of the big angle. Low in the grade.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6b
24
Aypa
Just right of the big corner, ape up the red wall and overlap and pull into a hanging chimney at the top.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
6c+
  • Latest Comments

    For KALYDNA AREA

    Aurora
    "awesome route. The last move to the chain, off a spicy mono, is extremely memor..." 26/Apr

    Aurora
    "The 7a+ variant is well worth doing and a bit runout in places (also watch out f..." 15/Apr

    Ixion
    "Another great pitch. Easier than Nickel. I thought 7a was sufficient." 19/Oct

    Sickle
    "nicer then one would expect from the decription/rating" 18/Oct

    Late Evening Light
    "Not as good as Extra." 08/Oct

    Yebus
    "A good long pitch with the crux in the last 5 metres. Superb climbing at 6b up t..." 02/Jul

    Tassir
    "This is a brilliant route" 30/Jun

    Tufa King Pumped
    "Easy 7b+. Dry this time! Route to left is Racomelo (bolted in Nov 07); unclimbed..." 02/Jun

    Tassir
    "absolument superbe" 09/Apr

    Ixion
    "Given 7b in the local guide, but like Neal says the route is more like soft 7a+...." 15/Oct

    Ixion
    "Really fun climbing but fealt more like 7a/7a+" 12/Oct

    Tufa King Pumped
    "Awesome route. Lots of varied styles of climbing. Skip the 5 metre extension tho..." 10/Oct

    Nickel
    "Brilliant pitch. Tufa climbing at its best with a pockety crux right at the top...." 11/Jun

    O Dragonian Devil
    "Has been flashed now, by Ethan Pringle." 02/Nov

    Tufa King Pumped
    "Damp and soapy again. Cruel moves off steep but easy tufa onto crimps just when ..." 29/Oct

    Uschana
    "A delightful pitch!" 19/Oct

    O Dragonian Devil
    "karin Kavoussi did this route (mayby first woman ? ) at 23.9.2006. Very fantasti..." 30/Sep

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