Svolværgeita

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Trad
Early morning sun
40 mins
Uphill

High above north Lofoten's main town, is the Svolværgeita (usually known simply as 'The Goat', with the two giant blocks of the horns balanced on its crest.
The broad col behind the Svolværgeita is the usual base for attempts on routes on the short side of the tower. It is a shady, cold and rather unfriendly spot, the atmosphere can be quite intimidating.
The West Face is clearly visible on the usual approach, giving a good chance to spy out the lines of the various routes. The narrow path leading across the steep grass slope to the start of Forsida is exposed - care is needed, especially if wet.
The 100m+ valley face of the Geita is tall and impressive though unfortunately most of it is heavily vegetated with a layer of moss and lichen. Two worthwhile climbs skirt the opposite edges of the face, the long central grooveline of the well-named Vegetarianeren being so overgrown as to be worthless, at least in summer.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rapellruta
Fine climbing up the line of the abseil descent, steep and juggy after a surprisingly tough start.1) 5, 28m. Struggle up...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5
2
1910 ruta Top 50
A great route and an astounding effort for its day. The climb remains steep and intimidating, with a great atmosphere and a...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
4+
3
Baksida
A combination of good pitches makes for a popular outing. Also known, for obvious reasons, as The Spiral Route.1) 4+, 24m....
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
5+
4
Englevinger
A good hard route which gives some great jamming up a strong line. Opinions vary on the grade. Bring a good range of cams...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
6+
5
Forsida Top 50
(The Outside Route) A great climb and by far the best way up The Goat - if you are on the island make the effort to get this...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5+
6
Vegetarianeren
(The Vegetarian) In the centre of the front side of The Goat is a prominent overgrown groove. It is seldom (if ever) climbed. A...
 5 A1
7
Highway to Heaven
Originally the cause of some controversy, this route involved a lot of highly visible cleaning. It ascends the prominent pale...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
7
  • Latest Comments

    For SVOLVÆR

    Highway to Heaven
    "Changed from N6+ ** to N7 **, no votes" 27/May

    Forsida
    "Nice and easy, but so many people. My god, better to do it at midnight." 29/May top50

    Rapellruta
    "A very nice single pitch, one of the nicest around with great incut holds and ex..." 17/Jul

    Forsida
    "Climbed it in quite wet and cold conditions but still good fun. Didn't find p5 h..." 28/Jun top50

    Forsida
    "Climbed the route after some rain and a wet approach, but the rock wasn't too we..." 28/Jul top50

    Forsida
    "Climbing across the horns wasn't too bad, but thought the ab off must have been ..." 06/Jul top50

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