Medusa Bay

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill
10 mins
Sheltered

This typical Stoney bay has some good companion routes to the Bitterfingers Bay further right. Wee Doris is an excellent test of stamina and Medusa gives a well-protected slippery tussle for anyone who considers themselves a grit crack master. Guidebook page 56.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sickle
Climb a short wall onto a ramp. Follow this to a pleasantly-exposed, but poorly-protected finish.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E1 5a
2
Boat Pusher's Wall
A largely-ignored lead because of a reputation for seriousness, and the far-too-convenient top-rope set up. In fact, it can be...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
3
Big Boris
Wall left of Wee Doris. Used to have a bolt.
 E5 6a
4
Wee Doris Top 50
An over top-roped training exercise, however it has some great moves and still packs a punch if led. The lower wall is a bit...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
5
Medusa
The wide crack is an intimidating struggle for most. Big gear, big arms and a strong will to succeed will help get you up it....
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E1 5b
6
Gesemini Direct
The right-hand crack is high in the grade. The disappointingly thin lower section gives a few very technical moves, before the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
7
Pickpocket
A good start up the technical wall and ramp has some very hard moves. Above, the route loses its way amongst some big ledges...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6a
8
Frisco Bay
The main corner is a good line, but is becoming very overgrown. The ivy needs trimming - again.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
9
Golden Gate
Two contrasting pitches. Sadly the bottom pitch is very polished.1) 5a, 20m. Climb the right-facing slippery cleft to the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5a
10
Bingo Wall
The direct line through the eye is a fine route when clean and dry.1) 5b, 18m. Passing the eye is tricky. Many abseil from...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
E2 5b
11
Kelly's Eye
A good little micro-route which is losing its battle with the ivy. Climb the wall to the flake then swing left to make some...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
12
Mind-blind
Direct start to Kelly's Eye
 E5 6b
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For STONEY MIDDLETON

    Gabriel and the Pearly Gates
    "Returning to Pearly Gates after a few years confirmed my impression that it was ..." 24/Apr top50

    Horizon
    "Worthwhile route, though not worth a star." 22/Apr

    Evasor
    "The length given for p1 here (and in the new Peak Limestone Rockfax for which I ..." 17/Oct top50

    Pygmies Walk Tall
    "Was really impressed with this route though it would benefit from more traffic t..." 24/Sep

    Dies Irae
    "Very little wear on this, compared to many routes at Stoney. Rock still felt gri..." 28/Aug

    Lost Horizon
    "S 3c or HS 4a gives a better idea of the bold nature of the route. Some interest..." 02/Jul

    Compositae Groove
    "Pity about the first pitch but the second is probably the best of it's grade at ..." 16/Jun

    Fe Fi Fo Fum
    "A good one for your mate to do, "it's only HVS..."" 25/Jul

    Windhover
    "Felt a bit loose in places today. The start is hard, but there's a hidden crimp ..." 24/Jul

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