Adjacent Areas
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Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill
10 minsThis typical Stoney bay has some good companion routes to the Bitterfingers Bay further right. Wee Doris is an excellent test of stamina and Medusa gives a well-protected slippery tussle for anyone who considers themselves a grit crack master. Guidebook page 56.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Sickle Climb a short wall onto a ramp. Follow this to a pleasantly-exposed, but poorly-protected finish. | 1 Stars Rounded | E1 5a |
2 |
Boat Pusher's Wall A largely-ignored lead because of a reputation for seriousness, and the far-too-convenient top-rope set up. In fact, it can be... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
3 |
Big Boris Wall left of Wee Doris. Used to have a bolt. | E5 6a | |
4 |
Wee Doris Top 50 An over top-roped training exercise, however it has some great moves and still packs a punch if led. The lower wall is a bit... 9 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
5 |
Medusa The wide crack is an intimidating struggle for most. Big gear, big arms and a strong will to succeed will help get you up it.... 9 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | E1 5b |
6 |
Gesemini Direct The right-hand crack is high in the grade. The disappointingly thin lower section gives a few very technical moves, before the... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E3 5c |
7 |
Pickpocket A good start up the technical wall and ramp has some very hard moves. Above, the route loses its way amongst some big ledges... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | E4 6a |
8 |
Frisco Bay The main corner is a good line, but is becoming very overgrown. The ivy needs trimming - again. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
9 |
Golden Gate Two contrasting pitches. Sadly the bottom pitch is very polished.1) 5a, 20m. Climb the right-facing slippery cleft to the... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Rounded | HVS 5a |
10 |
Bingo Wall The direct line through the eye is a fine route when clean and dry.1) 5b, 18m. Passing the eye is tricky. Many abseil from... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Rounded | E2 5b |
11 |
Kelly's Eye A good little micro-route which is losing its battle with the ivy. Climb the wall to the flake then swing left to make some... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
12 |
Mind-blind Direct start to Kelly's Eye | E5 6b | |
