Medusa Bay

Adjacent Areas
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Early morning sun
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

This typical Stoney bay has some good companion routes to the Bitterfingers Bay further right. Wee Doris is an excellent test of stamina and Medusa gives a well-protected slippery tussle for anyone who considers themselves a grit crack master.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sickle
Climb a short wall onto a ramp. Follow this to a pleasantly-exposed, but poorly-protected finish.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E1
2
Boat Pusher's Wall
A largely-ignored lead because of a reputation for seriousness, and the far-too-convenient top-rope set up. In fact, it can be...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3
3
Big Boris
Wall left of Wee Doris. Used to have a bolt.
 E5 6a
4
Wee Doris Top 50
An over top-roped training exercise, however it has some great moves and still packs a punch if led. The lower wall is a bit...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
5
Medusa
The wide crack is an intimidating struggle for most. Big gear, big arms and a strong will to succeed will help get you up it....
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E1
6
Gesemini Direct
The right-hand crack is high in the grade. The disappointingly thin lower section gives a few very technical moves, before the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
7
Pickpocket
A good start up the technical wall and ramp has some very hard moves. Above, the route loses its way amongst some big ledges...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
E4
8
Frisco Bay
The main corner is a good line, but is becoming very overgrown. The ivy needs trimming - again.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
9
Golden Gate
Two contrasting pitches. Sadly the bottom pitch is very polished.1) 5a, 20m. Climb the right-facing slippery cleft to the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
HVS
10
Bingo Wall
The direct line through the eye is a fine route when clean and dry.1) 5b, 18m. Passing the eye is tricky. Many abseil from...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
E2
11
Mind Blind
The direct seam to the chipped hold on Kelly's Eye is bold, but a side-runner (in Kelly's Eye) reduces the grade to only E5.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Fluttery
E6
12
Kelly's Eye
A good little micro-route which is losing its battle with the ivy. Climb the wall to the flake then swing left to make some...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4