Psycho and Rabbit's Paw Wall

Trad
No sun
Uphill
5 mins
Sheltered

A couple of huge boulders that lean against each other and present an impressive pair of faces towards the valley. The routes are short in stature but large in impact, runners are in short supply and most of the routes are soloed by the suitably talented. Further right are some more walls and slabs. These offer a mixture of bouldering and routes. Guidebook page 90.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Psycho
8m. Step onto the face and teeter right to the line of lumps and bumps running up the face. Follow these with trepidation.
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6b
2
Psycho Direct
10m. The true start is a tease.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6c
3
Adrenaline Rush
10m. The shallow crack fizzles out short of the top, but not before all the hard climbing is finished. The runners are...
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6b
4
Marrow Bone Jelly
10m. The right arete of the block is sustained, technical and unprotected. Start on the left or right.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6c
5
Little Cenotaph
8m. The gloomy groove is worthwhile, a bit of a struggle but worthwhile nonetheless.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 5a
6
Unfinished Crack
8m. The crack in the right wall fizzles out, then pockets allow the top to be reached.
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
7
Ephedrine
8m. The bold wall between the crack and arete.
 
Fluttery
E4 6a
8
Permutation Rib
8m. Teeter out right then sprint up the easier rib; short but airy. Traditionally a tricky HVS.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5c
9
Waite/ Welsh Rarebit
The shallow groove is near-impossible to access, fortunately it then eases.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
V9
10
Rabbit's Paw Wall
8m. The 'paw prints' are gained from the right by crossing the bulge with difficulty. Continue more easily. One of Yorkshire's...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5b
11
Hanging Groove
6m. The eponymous feature is tiny but terrifying, the potential fall is double the length of the route and not to be...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
12
Chips
The polished chipped 'olds in the right-hand face of the block.
 
Crimpy
V0- 4b
13
Otley Wall
From the start of Chips move out right to gain the hanging slot.
 
2 Stars
Technical
V2 6a
14
Morris Minor
The chipped holds up the slab.
 VB 4a
15
Morris Crack
6m. The compelling crack-line is an awkward customer.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
16
Morris Dance
The face just right of the crack to a highball finish.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
V0+ 5b
17
Maurice Chevalier
The arete on its right-hand side is a good high problem.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
V2 5c
18
Lightning Crack
The striking seam in the right-hand face of the boulder.
 
1 Stars
V4 6a
19
No Pebble Arete
The left-hand side of the slab. Use the arete after the start.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V9
20
Low Pebble Wall
The chips in the centre of the slab.
 
1 Stars
V2 6a
21
The Cruel Crack
Well named. Struggle up the short curving crack.
 
Graunchy
V1 5c
22
New Jerusalem
A classic problem up the short red wall.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
V7
  • Latest Comments

    For CALEY

    Angel's Wall
    "Not in any way a boulder problem - why change from HVS 5a?" 28/Mar

    Gary Cooper
    "Originally soled and given a grade of HVS!" 20/Jun

    Tippling Crack
    "Terrible." 18/Jul

    High Noon
    "I recall that Track of the Cat was described as best of all that is wicked on gr..." 04/Jan top50

    Tip Off
    "A nice solo. technical moves off the ledge. a better version of teli at stanage ..." 05/Nov

    High Noon
    "never e4 in a million years!" 29/Aug top50

    Holly Tree Scoop
    "The left hand finish up the chimney crack is good and worth a star, the finish u..." 16/Jul

    High Noon
    "Its a brilliant route and if NOT inspected and is sight led, I think it is worth..." 09/Feb top50

    Fred Zinnerman
    "it would appear the bolt is no-longer there, it might want changing before publi..." 14/Sep

    Noonday Ridge
    "Make sure upper slab is clean as it can get very wet in winter." 12/Sep

    High Noon
    "I don't think the upgrading of such a testpiece is justified. This is one of tho..." 12/Sep top50

    High Noon
    "What a route! It feels higher, more exposed and more scary than it realy is..cla..." 07/Jan top50

    Search for comments