Noonday Ridge

Adjacent Areas
< Main Edge Boulders  |  Pedestal Wall >

Trad
Evening sun
Uphill
10 mins
Sheltered

The Main Edge at Caley is not very extensive, despite this it is home to a very worthwhile set of climbs. It faces north and so it is inclined to be green for much of the year. Best conditions occur in the spring and autumn, after a dry spell. The encroaching trees tend to slow the drying of the cliff and encourage midges, though these are not as bad as you might expect. Guidebook page 94.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Fingerknacker Crack
8m. The thin leaning crack is a tease, though less so than when it was graded HVS.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E2 6a
2
The Sentry Box
8m. Entering and exiting the sentry box are both fun.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
3
Holly Tree Scoop
10m. Climb past the burgeoning tree to access the scoop.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
D
4
Gary Cooper
16m. Climb the bulging face to reach the rest on Noonday Ridge. Move round the arete and trend right across the wall to the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E4 6a
5
Noonday Ridge
14m. A Yorkshire classic. Climb right of the arete until it is possible to move awkwardly left - runners can be poked in before...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
6
High Noon Top 50
14m. The jutting axe-edged arete gives a great climb, bold and committing. From the good runners on Noonday Ridge move back...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
7
Fred Zinnerman
14m. Climb direct to pocket where a skyhook can be placed. Move up to the old bolt scar then step left to finish direct....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
8
Welcome to the Neighbourhood
14m. The face just left of the big groove has its moments. Finish up the groove, and avoid side-runners for the full effect.
 E1 5c
9
Lad's Corner
14m. The big corner is a character building trip, though it can be gritty after wet weather.
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
10
Block Chimney
14m. The tilted rift to the right of the corner is another must-do graunch, great if you enjoy the genre.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
11
Compulsion Crack
14m. The right-hand crack is compelling - well it would be!
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VS 5a
12
Compulsive Viewing
16m. Follow Compulsion Crack until the ramp on the left can be reached, up this to the horizontal break, then move left to a...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
13
Forecourt Crawler
16m. The stubborn crack leads to the roof, pass this and climb the short wall to a final desperate move.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For CALEY

    Angel's Wall
    "Not in any way a boulder problem - why change from HVS 5a?" 28/Mar

    Gary Cooper
    "Originally soled and given a grade of HVS!" 20/Jun

    Tippling Crack
    "Terrible." 18/Jul

    High Noon
    "I recall that Track of the Cat was described as best of all that is wicked on gr..." 04/Jan top50

    Tip Off
    "A nice solo. technical moves off the ledge. a better version of teli at stanage ..." 05/Nov

    High Noon
    "never e4 in a million years!" 29/Aug top50

    Holly Tree Scoop
    "The left hand finish up the chimney crack is good and worth a star, the finish u..." 16/Jul

    High Noon
    "Its a brilliant route and if NOT inspected and is sight led, I think it is worth..." 09/Feb top50

    Fred Zinnerman
    "it would appear the bolt is no-longer there, it might want changing before publi..." 14/Sep

    Noonday Ridge
    "Make sure upper slab is clean as it can get very wet in winter." 12/Sep

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