Adjacent Areas
< Main Edge Boulders | Pedestal Wall >
Trad
Evening sun
Uphill
10 minsThe Main Edge at Caley is not very extensive, despite this it is home to a very worthwhile set of climbs. It faces north and so it is inclined to be green for much of the year. Best conditions occur in the spring and autumn, after a dry spell. The encroaching trees tend to slow the drying of the cliff and encourage midges, though these are not as bad as you might expect. Guidebook page 94.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Fingerknacker Crack 8m. The thin leaning crack is a tease, though less so than when it was graded HVS. | 1 Stars Crimpy | E2 6a |
2 |
The Sentry Box 8m. Entering and exiting the sentry box are both fun. | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
3 |
Holly Tree Scoop 10m. Climb past the burgeoning tree to access the scoop. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | D |
4 |
Gary Cooper 16m. Climb the bulging face to reach the rest on Noonday Ridge. Move round the arete and trend right across the wall to the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Rounded | E4 6a |
5 |
Noonday Ridge 14m. A Yorkshire classic. Climb right of the arete until it is possible to move awkwardly left - runners can be poked in before... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E1 5b |
6 |
High Noon Top 50 14m. The jutting axe-edged arete gives a great climb, bold and committing. From the good runners on Noonday Ridge move back... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 6a |
7 |
Fred Zinnerman 14m. Climb direct to pocket where a skyhook can be placed. Move up to the old bolt scar then step left to finish direct.... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
8 |
Welcome to the Neighbourhood 14m. The face just left of the big groove has its moments. Finish up the groove, and avoid side-runners for the full effect. | E1 5c | |
9 |
Lad's Corner 14m. The big corner is a character building trip, though it can be gritty after wet weather. | 2 Stars Graunchy | VS 4c |
10 |
Block Chimney 14m. The tilted rift to the right of the corner is another must-do graunch, great if you enjoy the genre. | 1 Stars Graunchy | VS 4c |
11 |
Compulsion Crack 14m. The right-hand crack is compelling - well it would be! | 2 Stars Graunchy | VS 5a |
12 |
Compulsive Viewing 16m. Follow Compulsion Crack until the ramp on the left can be reached, up this to the horizontal break, then move left to a... | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
13 |
Forecourt Crawler 16m. The stubborn crack leads to the roof, pass this and climb the short wall to a final desperate move. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | E4 6b |
