Adjacent Areas
< None | Wellington Crack >
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill
2 minsWindy
To the left of the entrance to the Quarry there are a couple of faces with an interesting selection of climbs. The routes often look greener than they actually are. Guidebook page 70.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Sinister Cracks 12m. Move right from the large block to a ledge on the arete. Follow the crack above then the slab just to the right. 2 user comments | Rounded | VD |
2 |
Bald Pate 18m. Start as for Sinister Cracks but follow the break that bisects the slab away towards the right arete. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E1 5a |
3 |
Doris's Route 18m. Mild but bold and well chipped. Start under Sinister Cracks and gain the arete on the right then continue following the... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | S 3c |
4 |
Sinister Rib 14m. Gain the hanging rib direct (chipped holds) and climb to the break. The upper arete feels bold, especially as the top... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5b |
5 |
Black Ball 14m. Start up Sinister Rib but shuffle right then pad up the bald, bold slab. A bit blinkered but very engrossing. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E3 5c |
6 |
Bald Pate Superdirect 12m. The hanging right arete of the block is climbed on its front face and has a highball finish. | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E6 6c |
7 |
Bald Pate Direct 12m. Fine climbing. From the ledge on the right, traverse the wall to the arete then step boldly up and round to join Bald... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
8 |
Deathwatch 10m. Tackle the side wall as directly as the line of holds allows. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E7 6b |
9 |
Grand as Owt 10m. The arete on its right-hand side past indifferent runners. | Technical | E3 6a |
10 |
Serendipity 10m. From blocks, climb to and up the crack. Might need de-grassing early in the season. | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E2 5b |
11 |
Piton Wall 12m. Sprint up the ramp (scary) to jugs, balance up using a second ramp and finish direct. | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | HVS 5a |
12 |
Transparent Wall 12m. Climb the once-pegged crack then trend left past a second crack and a useful pocket. Finish more easily. Sadly, the route... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5a |
13 |
Sticky Fingers 12m. The right-hand crack is followed with a short loop out left in its central section. The direct version is 6a. | 1 Stars Crimpy Rounded | E2 5c |
