Adjacent Areas
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No sun
Uphill
3 minsWindy
The left wall of the quarry has one outstanding feature - the searing thin crack that was the crag's most popular aid route for 25 years. The buttress used to be capped by a large overhang which was removed by the local council in 2000 due to it being perceived a danger. Guidebook page 71.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Highfield Corner 14m. Follow the wide slanting crack, or the start of Nailbite, until a ledge on the left can be gained. Move back right and... | Rounded Fluttery | HVS 5a |
2 |
Nailbite 14m. Climb the widening vertical rift then stay with the right-slanting crack and finish up its wide upper section. | 1 Stars Graunchy | VD |
3 |
Central Wall 14m. Climb the crack that splits the bulge (or boulder up the wall to the right) then the steep and bold arete on the right. | Fluttery | E1 5b |
4 |
Sand Chimney 14m. The left-hand curving cleft is awkward, especially the start. Its alternative name of Fat Man's Misery gives the clue as... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Graunchy | VD |
5 |
Demolition Derby 14m. The right-hand cleft was a semi-classic Diff (Wellington Chimney) that was severely affected by the council's... 1 user comment | Fluttery Graunchy Loose | HS 4a |
6 |
Wellington Crack Top 50 16m. The stunning crack is a classic product of the 70s. The crack is relentless, but the gear is good throughout, stopping to... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E4 5c |
7 |
Loaded 18m. Climb Wellington Crack to just above mid-height, load the crack with all the gear you have (you won't need it above) then... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E8 7a |
8 |
Snap Decision 16m. The sinuous and committing line up the wall, passing two old peg runners, to a taxing exit. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery | E7 6c |
9 |
Curving Cracks 18m. Climb the awkward curving crack, complete with jammed blocks, to ledges and a potential stance. Finish up the thinner... | 1 Stars | VS 5a |
10 |
Gibbon's Wall 8m. A short line of chipped holds. | Crimpy | HS 4c |
11 |
Letterbox Crack 8m. The tricky wide crack in the right-hand side of the wall, passing a useful letterbox just below the top. | Graunchy | HS 4b |
12 |
Peg Wall A boulder problem up the wall. The letterbox on the previous route is used near the top, without, it is a good V6 eliminate. | Technical Crimpy | V4 6b |
13 |
Peg Crack 8m. A short worthwhile problem up the thin crack. Worth V0. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5a |
14 |
High Street 10m. Move out left to access a ramp. Follow this leftwards into increasingly serious territory until it is possible to reach up... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
15 |
Curving Corner 8m. The short rib above the centre of the ledge. Steep and safe. | HVS 5b | |
