Wellington Crack

Adjacent Areas
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No sun
3 mins
Uphill

The left wall of the quarry has one outstanding feature - the searing thin crack that was the crag's most popular aid route for 25 years. The buttress used to be capped by a large overhang which was removed by the local council in 2000 due to it being perceived a danger.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Highfield Corner
14m. Follow the wide slanting crack, or the start of Nailbite, until a ledge on the left can be gained. Move back right and...
 
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS 5a
2
Nailbite
14m. Climb the widening vertical rift then stay with the right-slanting crack and finish up its wide upper section.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
3
Central Wall
14m. Climb the crack that splits the bulge (or boulder up the wall to the right) then the steep and bold arete on the right.
 
Fluttery
E1 5b
4
Sand Chimney
14m. The left-hand curving cleft is awkward, especially the start. Its alternative name of Fat Man's Misery gives the clue as...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
5
Demolition Derby
14m. The right-hand cleft was a semi-classic Diff (Wellington Chimney) that was severely affected by the council's...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
Graunchy
Loose
HS 4a
6
Wellington Crack Top 50
16m. The stunning crack is a classic product of the 70s. The crack is relentless, but the gear is good throughout, stopping to...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 5c
7
Loaded
18m. Climb Wellington Crack to just above mid-height, load the crack with all the gear you have (you won't need it above) then...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E8 7a
8
Snap Decision
16m. The sinuous and committing line up the wall, passing two old peg runners, to a taxing exit.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
9
Curving Cracks
18m. Climb the awkward curving crack, complete with jammed blocks, to ledges and a potential stance. Finish up the thinner...
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
10
Gibbon's Wall
8m. A short line of chipped holds.
 
Crimpy
HS 4c
11
Letterbox Crack
8m. The tricky wide crack in the right-hand side of the wall, passing a useful letterbox just below the top.
 
Graunchy
HS 4b
12
Peg Wall
A boulder problem up the wall. The letterbox on the previous route is used near the top, without, it is a good V6 eliminate.
 
Technical
Crimpy
V4 6B
13
Peg Crack
8m. A short worthwhile problem up the thin crack. Worth V0.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
14
High Street
10m. Move out left to access a ramp. Follow this leftwards into increasingly serious territory until it is possible to reach up...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
15
Curving Corner
8m. The short rib above the centre of the ledge. Steep and safe.
 HVS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For ILKLEY

    Desperate Dan
    "Brilliant route and pretty safe with a couple of mats. Modern highballing at it..." 27/Jun top50

    Oak Tree Slab
    "How can an unprotected 4b slab get S 4b? MVS 4b would be closer, or maybe HS 4a ..." 15/Jun

    Bald Eagle
    "Can't understand the E grade. No worthwhile gear on the hard bit. A fall from th..." 21/May

    Wellington Crack
    "Inspired by the 80s photo of JD I fulfilled the long held ambition of a solo asc..." 18/Jun top50

    Black Chimney
    "Just squeeze inside and squirm upwards - not much gear, but it'd be hard to fall..." 04/Jun

    New Statesman
    "Hard E8 with unprotected crux (7a) above back breaking boulder. Filed down rp 2s..." 12/May

    Tufted Crack
    "Finally got it. 2yrs on and it's still a bitch. I can now say I enjoyed it, I th..." 15/Mar top50

    Shock Horror
    "fell off from top, twice. Its a long way. The fall is a privallage." 14/Sep top50

    Cherry Valley Rib
    "One of the easiest HVS's in the area - so long as you don't mind the bold [but w..." 28/Aug

    Walker's Hangover
    "Hard for HVS, at the top of the crack and the top of the arete. Definitely felt..." 27/Aug

    Peg Crack
    "Nice, but definitely not worth HVS. VS 4b?" 25/Aug

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