Adjacent Areas
< Guillotine | The Cow >
Trad
Sun and Shade
Uphill
3 minsThe right-hand wall of the quarry has a great selection of routes with many of them in the ever-popular orange zone. There is a couple of days climbing here for most. Guidebook page 72.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Propeller Wall 14m. Starting behind the rockfall, climb the two part arete, passing the grubby break, to escalating difficulties on the upper... 1 user comment | Fluttery | E4 5c |
2 |
Old Crack 14m. The first crack in the wall gives a good strenuous pitch. | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4b |
3 |
S Crack 14m. A venerable and varied classic. The wide start is tricky, the rest is sustained and interesting. 1 user comment | 3 Stars | VS 4c |
4 |
Fairy Wall 14m. The wall has a hard mantel move to reach the break (cam runner) and a sustained upper section. | Technical Crimpy | E2 5c |
5 |
Fairy Steps 14m. Climb the ledgy rib (polished) to a position below the left-trending ramp. Gain this direct or, easier, by moving right... | 1 Stars | HVD |
6 |
V Chimney 14m. The cleft between the two smoother walls has a torrid exit. | Graunchy | VS 5a |
7 |
Josephine Super Direct 14m. Climb the twin cracks (awkward to start) then continue to the bird-limed cave. Finish up the bulging groove directly... | 2 Stars Crimpy | VS 4b |
8 |
Cherry Valley Rib 14m. Follow the twinned cracks until the narrow buttress on the left can be gained, just above the jutting beak. Finish boldly... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5a |
9 |
Josephine Direct 16m. Follow the Super Direct to the poo, then make a tricky move right to another ledge and climb into the sentry box before... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
10 |
Little John 14m. Balance across the tip of the slab to the rib, then move up and left to join Josephine Direct. | E1 5b | |
11 |
Little John Direct A worthwhile problem up the rib. | 1 Stars Technical | V5 6b |
12 |
Short Circuit 14m. The centre of the wall is tricky (V2) to start and bold to finish. From the ledges, finish up Josephine Direct. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | E2 5c |
13 |
Josephine 18m. Climb the left-trending cracks to reach ledges (possible stance for those practising multi-pitch). Continue left, passing... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | HS 4b |
14 |
Napoleon 14m. Start as for Josephine but continue direct up the jamming cracks above the mid-route ledge. | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
15 |
Blucher 14m. The right-hand crack and groove directly above the start of Josephine provide a worthwhile alternative finish. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
16 |
Tufted Crack Top 50 14m. The right-hand crack in the headwall looks innocuous enough but proves to be a struggle. Too fat for fingers and too thin... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E1 5c |
17 |
Spider Wall The right-hand side of the wall on slippery and unhelpful holds. | Technical Crimpy | V2 6a |
18 |
Earwig Rib The arete on the right is harder again. | 1 Stars Technical | V3 6b |
19 |
Walewska Top 50 16m. Arguably the best VS in the quarry. Take a good supply of big stuff. Climb steeply to the first ledge then step right and... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
20 |
Botterill's Crack 12m. The wide crack right of the quarry entrance is a struggle. | 1 Stars Graunchy | HVS 5a |
21 |
Flake Crack 10m. The short flake-crack on the far right to a rightward exit. The crack swallows gear and doesn't always give it back. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HS 4a |
