Josephine

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
3 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The right-hand wall of the quarry has a great selection of routes with many of them in the ever-popular orange zone. There is a couple of days climbing here for most.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Propeller Wall
14m. Starting behind the rockfall, climb the two part arete, passing the grubby break, to escalating difficulties on the upper...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E4 5c
2
Old Crack
14m. The first crack in the wall gives a good strenuous pitch.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
3
S Crack
14m. A venerable and varied classic. The wide start is tricky, the rest is sustained and interesting.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
4
Fairy Wall
14m. The wall has a hard mantel move to reach the break (cam runner) and a sustained upper section.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E2 5c
5
Fairy Steps
14m. Climb the ledgy rib (polished) to a position below the left-trending ramp. Gain this direct or, easier, by moving right...
 
1 Stars
HVD
6
V Chimney
14m. The cleft between the two smoother walls has a torrid exit.
 
Graunchy
VS 5a
7
Josephine Super Direct
14m. Climb the twin cracks (awkward to start) then continue to the bird-limed cave. Finish up the bulging groove directly...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
VS 4b
8
Cherry Valley Rib
14m. Follow the twinned cracks until the narrow buttress on the left can be gained, just above the jutting beak. Finish boldly...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
9
Josephine Direct
16m. Follow the Super Direct to the poo, then make a tricky move right to another ledge and climb into the sentry box before...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
10
Little John
14m. Balance across the tip of the slab to the rib, then move up and left to join Josephine Direct.
 E1 5b
11
Little John Direct
A worthwhile problem up the rib.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V5 6C
12
Short Circuit
14m. The centre of the wall is tricky (V2) to start and bold to finish. From the ledges, finish up Josephine Direct.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E2 5c
13
Josephine
18m. Climb the left-trending cracks to reach ledges (possible stance for those practising multi-pitch). Continue left, passing...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HS 4b
14
Napoleon
14m. Start as for Josephine but continue direct up the jamming cracks above the mid-route ledge.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
15
Blucher
14m. The right-hand crack and groove directly above the start of Josephine provide a worthwhile alternative finish.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
16
Tufted Crack Top 50
14m. The right-hand crack in the headwall looks innocuous enough but proves to be a struggle. Too fat for fingers and too thin...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5c
17
Spider Wall
The right-hand side of the wall on slippery and unhelpful holds.
 
Technical
Crimpy
V2 5c
18
Earwig Rib
The arete on the right is harder again.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V3 6A
19
Walewska Top 50
16m. Arguably the best VS in the quarry. Take a good supply of big stuff. Climb steeply to the first ledge then step right and...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
20
Botterill's Crack
12m. The wide crack right of the quarry entrance is a struggle.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5a
21
Flake Crack
10m. The short flake-crack on the far right to a rightward exit. The crack swallows gear and doesn't always give it back.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For ILKLEY

    Desperate Dan
    "Brilliant route and pretty safe with a couple of mats. Modern highballing at it..." 27/Jun top50

    Oak Tree Slab
    "How can an unprotected 4b slab get S 4b? MVS 4b would be closer, or maybe HS 4a ..." 15/Jun

    Bald Eagle
    "Can't understand the E grade. No worthwhile gear on the hard bit. A fall from th..." 21/May

    Wellington Crack
    "Inspired by the 80s photo of JD I fulfilled the long held ambition of a solo asc..." 18/Jun top50

    Black Chimney
    "Just squeeze inside and squirm upwards - not much gear, but it'd be hard to fall..." 04/Jun

    New Statesman
    "Hard E8 with unprotected crux (7a) above back breaking boulder. Filed down rp 2s..." 12/May

    Tufted Crack
    "Finally got it. 2yrs on and it's still a bitch. I can now say I enjoyed it, I th..." 15/Mar top50

    Shock Horror
    "fell off from top, twice. Its a long way. The fall is a privallage." 14/Sep top50

    Cherry Valley Rib
    "One of the easiest HVS's in the area - so long as you don't mind the bold [but w..." 28/Aug

    Walker's Hangover
    "Hard for HVS, at the top of the crack and the top of the arete. Definitely felt..." 27/Aug

    Peg Crack
    "Nice, but definitely not worth HVS. VS 4b?" 25/Aug

    Milky Way
    "Absolutely brilliant - couldn't get much better than this! Better than London Wa..." 09/Aug top50

    Snap Decision
    "Now one new peg runner - the upper peg is sadly no longer with us" 21/Jul

    Blucher
    "The difficulties are short and well protected - would make a good first VS (thou..." 18/Jun

    Cow Udder
    "Self belayed this last saturday. fine top roped, I would have filled my pants as..." 14/Apr

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