Hatter's Groove

Trad
Evening sun
15 mins
Level
Sheltered

A green and neglected area, it does have a great selection of climbs but is perhaps best left for when the conditions are right. Fortunately, the routes are generally a bit cleaner than they look, so if in doubt, give them a go. Guidebook page 143.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Hattery
9m. Start up the arete left of a boulder-choked gully to the first break then move left and climb the rather bold wall on a...
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
2
The Hattery Arete
9m. The fine arete is followed throughout.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
3
Close to the Hedge
8m. The rounded green arete is gained via the wall on the right. Climb to a hole, step left and grasp a way to the top. A...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 6a
4
Last Crack
8m. The right-angled corner can be green.
 HS 4b
5
Cracked Rib
8m. Gain the hanging widening crack from the right. A direct approach is more like 5c.
 VS 5a
6
Brief Crack
8m. The jamming crack rising from the back left-hand corner of the ledge of The Pulpit.
 
Pumpy
HS 4b
7
Graft Crack
8m. The right-hand of the two cracks.
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
VS 4c
8
Slippery Crack
10m. A slippery start leads to good jamming above. High in the grade and worth 4c in anything less than perfect conditions.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
9
Grit Expectations
10m. The fine arete is climbed mostly on its right-hand side via the shallow groove and some useful pockets. Protection is...
 
3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 6a
10
Hatter's Groove
12m. A classic test-piece with a maddening move on it. Bridge the green groove awkwardly to the capstone where a good thread...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
HVS 5a
11
Hard Hat
12m. The right-hand exit to Hatter's Groove is altogether harder.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E1 5c
12
Easy Escape
12m. Does what it says on the tin. Avoid the hard move of Hatter's Groove by crossing the right wall using the central break to...
1 user comment
 VS 4c
13
Grit Escape
10m. Climb the diagonal crack in the right wall until close to the arete, then continue up the left-hand side of this.
 
Pumpy
Rounded
HVS 5b
14
Right-hand Arete
10m. The rounded right arete is followed until obliged to step right into the next route.
 
Rounded
HVS 5a
15
Lichen Chimney
10m. The widening crack is less lichenous than it used to be though it is still a bit grungy.
 
Rounded
Graunchy
VD
  • Latest Comments

    For BRIMHAM ROCKS

    Charming Crack
    "Did this in 1991 when my guide book had it as HVS - my comment at the time was &..." 23/Sep

    Fag Slab Variant
    "Not straightforward. Feet! Are you supposed to go straight up at top of overla..." 09/Jun

    Black Chipper
    "I've topped this out several times and never found the chip at the top. As long..." 06/Oct

    Great Slab
    "Great route, easily worth 2 stars!" 21/Jun

    Minion's Way
    "It was only 5a when I soloed it in 1990. Grade inflation gone mad." 27/Mar

    Clingon
    "Is the grading on this a misprint? Seems more straightforward than V5(and the fu..." 12/Mar

    Centre Point
    "Barely Moderate." 12/Sep

    Peerless
    "Where does 5a come from?! It's HS 4a in the YMC guide, S 4a probably more accura..." 10/Jun

    Easy Escape
    "This climb is also called 'Easy Exit' in both the 1989 and 2000 YMC grit guides...." 08/May

    Ritornal
    "This is more E1 than most E1s. Bold and fully committing mid-height crux, and a ..." 31/Oct

    Left Wall
    "brilliant route with good pro. soft touch" 19/Oct top50

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