Black Chipper

Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
10 mins
Sheltered

A rather retiring buttress with one classic climb. To its right are some shorter walls and ribs that have a selection of climbs that are not much more than extended boulder problems though, despite their diminutive size, most have awkward rounded exits and/or poor landings. The area gets plenty of sun and is quick-drying too. Guidebook page 145.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Natural Grit
12m. Climb the wall to a ledge then move over to the Black Chipper thread, before finishing leftwards up the shallow ramp.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5c
2
Black Chipper
12m. After a tough start (5c?) follow pockets and slopers up to the break where a small thread (possibly also chipped?) and...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
E2 5b
3
The Arch
8m. A fiendish mantel leads to a narrow foot-ledge and another rounded mantel completes the fun.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 6a
4
For Crying Out Loud
8m. The rib that bounds the right edge of The Arch and the technical wall above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E2 6b
5
Rotifer
8m. The arete is climbed with increasing trepidation.
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 6a
6
Dogleg Crack
12m. Up the dog's leg to a ledge and a possible stance (for moral support - you will need it) then tackle the awful...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
E1 5c
7
Ritornal
6m. The arete to a rounded exit is a little gem.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E1 5b
8
Inner State
6m. A difficult independent line, straight up the centre of the wall. It was climbed on-sight using pads but still feels...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
9
Successor State
6m. The next arete is also taxing, just less so.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
10
White Flag
6m. The left arete of the buttress to a rounded exit.
 
Rounded
VS 5a
11
White Rose Flake
6m. Climb to the end of the flake then finish with difficulty.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For BRIMHAM ROCKS

    Charming Crack
    "Did this in 1991 when my guide book had it as HVS - my comment at the time was &..." 23/Sep

    Fag Slab Variant
    "Not straightforward. Feet! Are you supposed to go straight up at top of overla..." 09/Jun

    Black Chipper
    "I've topped this out several times and never found the chip at the top. As long..." 06/Oct

    Great Slab
    "Great route, easily worth 2 stars!" 21/Jun

    Minion's Way
    "It was only 5a when I soloed it in 1990. Grade inflation gone mad." 27/Mar

    Clingon
    "Is the grading on this a misprint? Seems more straightforward than V5(and the fu..." 12/Mar

    Centre Point
    "Barely Moderate." 12/Sep

    Peerless
    "Where does 5a come from?! It's HS 4a in the YMC guide, S 4a probably more accura..." 10/Jun

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