Adjacent Areas
< Cracked Buttress | Notice Board Crack >
Trad
Sun and Shade
Level
8 minsWindy
Part way down the shallow valley that runs down from Brimham House is the odd triple tower of Cleft Buttress. Although never a busy destination, the climbs here are good and the rock formations give an interesting setting. Most of the problems/routes have tricky starts and then easier finishes hence we have described most as problems although many were originally done as routes. Guidebook page 150.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Gordon's Wall An exercise in tough pulls on sloping holds. | Reachy Rounded | V2 6a |
2 |
Syrett's Rib The left arete of the canyon. | 1 Stars Reachy | V1 5b |
3 |
Cleft Arete Left The left-hand side of the arete. Continue to the top for a VS tick. | 1 Stars Rounded | V0- 5a |
4 |
Cleft Arete Right The right-hand side is harder. | 1 Stars Rounded | V2 5c |
5 |
Womb with a View Link two short cracks and lots of sloping holds. | Rounded | V2 5c |
6 |
Clingon The well named arete is as rounded as a really round thing. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Rounded | V5 6c |
7 |
Murky Crack 12m. The awkward crack leads to right trending shelves and the top of the tower. Escape is problematical on first acquaintance. | 1 Stars Graunchy | VS 4c |
8 |
Murky Rib The left arete of the gully entrance on its left-hand side. Starting up the right-hand side and continuing to the top is HVS... | 1 Stars Rounded | V3 6a |
9 |
Cleft Pinnacle 12m. Layback the inner arete (opposite Lancet Crack) then trend right to the summit plateau. Escape is by reversing the route. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Rounded | S 4a |
10 |
Lancet Crack 12m. Facing the southern entrance to the cleft is a fine climb up the thin crack and through the bulges above. Easier than it... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 5a |
11 |
Stone Age Reveller 12m. Layback the arete to reach the bulges then climb these with difficulty to enter the much easier groove above. | 1 Stars Technical Rounded | E4 6b |
12 |
Druid's Reality 12m. Start under the capping boulder and climb to it then swing left rapidly to access the easy final groove of the last route. | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
13 |
Cleft Buttress 12m. Opposite Druid's Reality, climb the wall to a ledge then improvise a way onto the top of the tower. Escape is tricky. | 1 Stars Rounded | VD |
14 |
Perverted Crack 10m. The crack on the outer face give pleasure to those who like grinding fist-jamming - we know you are out there somewhere. | 1 Stars Graunchy | VS 5a |
15 |
Pair in a Cubicle Stretch and palm up the face just right of the crack. | 1 Stars Rounded | V6 6c |
