Cleft Buttres

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
8 mins
Level

Part way down the shallow valley that runs down from Brimham House is the odd triple tower of Cleft Buttress. Although never a busy destination, the climbs here are good and the rock formations give an interesting setting. Most of the problems/routes have tricky starts and then easier finishes hence we have described most as problems although many were originally done as routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Gordon's Wall
An exercise in tough pulls on sloping holds.
 
Reachy
Rounded
V2 5c
2
Syrett's Rib
The left arete of the canyon.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
V1 5b
3
Cleft Arete Left
The left-hand side of the arete. Continue to the top for a VS tick.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
V0- 4b
4
Cleft Arete Right
The right-hand side is harder.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
V2 5c
5
Womb with a View
Link two short cracks and lots of sloping holds.
 
Rounded
V2 5c
6
Clingon
The well named arete is as rounded as a really round thing.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
V5 6C
7
Murky Crack
12m. The awkward crack leads to right trending shelves and the top of the tower. Escape is problematical on first acquaintance.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4c
8
Murky Rib
The left arete of the gully entrance on its left-hand side. Starting up the right-hand side and continuing to the top is HVS...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
V3 6A
9
Cleft Pinnacle
12m. Layback the inner arete (opposite Lancet Crack) then trend right to the summit plateau. Escape is by reversing the route.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
S 4a
10
Lancet Crack
12m. Facing the southern entrance to the cleft is a fine climb up the thin crack and through the bulges above. Easier than it...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
11
Stone Age Reveller
12m. Layback the arete to reach the bulges then climb these with difficulty to enter the much easier groove above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E4 6b
12
Druid's Reality
12m. Start under the capping boulder and climb to it then swing left rapidly to access the easy final groove of the last route.
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
13
Cleft Buttress
12m. Opposite Druid's Reality, climb the wall to a ledge then improvise a way onto the top of the tower. Escape is tricky.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VD
14
Perverted Crack
10m. The crack on the outer face give pleasure to those who like grinding fist-jamming - we know you are out there somewhere.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS 5a
15
Pair in a Cubicle
Stretch and palm up the face just right of the crack.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
V6 7A
  • Latest Comments

    For BRIMHAM ROCKS

    Take No Notice
    "Does this route go straight up or move left at the top to the large pocket? It's..." 17/Nov

    Charming Crack
    "Did this in 1991 when my guide book had it as HVS - my comment at the time was &..." 23/Sep

    Fag Slab Variant
    "Not straightforward. Feet! Are you supposed to go straight up at top of overla..." 09/Jun

    Black Chipper
    "I've topped this out several times and never found the chip at the top. As long..." 06/Oct

    Great Slab
    "Great route, easily worth 2 stars!" 21/Jun

    Minion's Way
    "It was only 5a when I soloed it in 1990. Grade inflation gone mad." 27/Mar

    Clingon
    "Is the grading on this a misprint? Seems more straightforward than V5(and the fu..." 12/Mar

    Centre Point
    "Barely Moderate." 12/Sep

    Peerless
    "Where does 5a come from?! It's HS 4a in the YMC guide, S 4a probably more accura..." 10/Jun

    Easy Escape
    "This climb is also called 'Easy Exit' in both the 1989 and 2000 YMC grit guides...." 08/May

    Ritornal
    "This is more E1 than most E1s. Bold and fully committing mid-height crux, and a ..." 31/Oct

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