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The wall and tall tower separated from the edge by a small gap is arguably the best buttress at Crookrise, it has an excellent selection of climbs on peerless rock. Guidebook page 118.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Streaklet 6m. The centre of the wall has a desperate start to reach the break and a rounded finish. | Technical | E3 6b |
2 |
Rushlight 8m. The slabby side wall of the left-hand face to a steeper finish. | Rounded | S 4a |
3 |
Crease 12m. From the blocky rift, gain the face on the right using the pockets then continue up and right to finish. | 2 Stars | VS 5a |
4 |
Crease Arete 10m. Starting on the right, gain and follow the arete throughout. 1 user comment | Technical Rounded Fluttery | E2 6a |
5 |
Crease Direct The technical banana-shaped groove is superb. Escape left. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | V3 6a |
6 |
The Fly A couple of poor pockets point the way up the smooth wall. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery | V8 |
7 |
Slingsby's Chimney 10m. A classic. The start is tricky, then burrow into the cliff to make progress where traditional techniques lead back to... | 2 Stars Graunchy | HVD 4a |
8 |
Chimney Buttress 12m. Start up the chimney but move left onto the face, continuing up and left following the line of least resistance. | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
9 |
Small Brown 10m. Gain the shallow hanging groove direct or from the left (traditional, though no shenanigans with the rope allowed... | 3 Stars Technical | E4 6b |
10 |
Massive Attack 10m. Use the direct start to Small Brown but continue up the left-hand side of the arete throughout. | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6b |
11 |
Hovis Super Direct Climb direct to reach pockets in the wall left of Hovis. | 2 Stars Technical | V5 6b |
12 |
Hovis Direct Climb the arete left of the block to a pocket. Escape right or continue up Wholemeal, E3 6a, to reach Flake Wall. | 1 Stars Reachy Rounded | V4 6a |
13 |
Hovis 10m. From the top of the flake on the right, teeter round the corner and gain the shallow hanging groove with difficulty.... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E1 5c |
14 |
Flake Wall 10m. Traverse up the flake then step up to the break. Traverse this out to the arete and finish up this. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Rounded | HS 4b |
15 |
Spellbinder 8m. A direct finish to Flake Wall up the face above the centre of the flake. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |