The Shelf

Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill

A fine tall buttress with several excellent climbs including the cliff's best known mid-extreme The Shelf - still a solid E2, originally soloed by Allan Austin way back in 1956 (with Brian Evans dangling a sling over the top). There are other fine offerings including a couple of meaty cracks.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Chockstone Chimney
12m. The groove is reached via twin cracks.
 
Graunchy
VD
2
Buster Direct
10m. Climb the reachy front of the pillar to gain the slanting crack, then jam this to access the easier arete.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5b
3
Buster
12m. Start up the chimney then shuffle round the first arete and cross the face to the second one. Up this - great positions -...
 
2 Stars
S 4a
4
Open Chimney
10m. The long rift is an old-style classic, beware the odd loose block. After the second big chockstone, stay close to the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
5
The Shelf Top 50
12m. A classic bold outing, now tamed somewhat with modern cunning. Climb the groove to its top and a good pocket. A long...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
6
The Forager
12m. A cop-out from the main challenge but with some good climbing. Up the groove (as for The Shelf) but follow the jamming...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
7
Long Climb
12m. The central rift of the buttress gives a fine outing, steep and quite awkward, as far as the capping roof. A...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
8
Lyndhurst
12m. Makes the most of the rock right of Long Climb. An awkward crack (usually avoided) gains the ledge. Climb the wall above...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E1 5b
9
Cat's Whiskers
14m. Climb the wall to a ledge then make a balancy high step onto the overlap and continue to the roof. A long traverse left...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For CROOKRISE

    Octopus
    "Much trickier than a Severe 4a. The start is 4c and much harder than the Edge Ro..." 25/Mar

    Lyndhurst
    "Why is this route in this guide, but not Elm Tree Wall which is immediately Left..." 26/Oct

    Tiger Rag
    "Harder to get off the deck for shorties. With a nasty landing." 17/Jun

    Old Lace
    "E1 without side-runner. Great route." 30/Mar

    Face, Arete and Wall Climb
    "Yes please, a description would be very useful! I tried to follow the line in th..." 03/Aug

    Old Lace
    "worth the upgrade and still on the bold side. good route" 07/Nov

    Old Lace
    "Oops...didnt notice it had been upgraded." 08/Jun

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