Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
20 minsWindy
A fine tall buttress with several excellent climbs including the cliff's best known mid-extreme The Shelf - still a solid E2, originally soloed by Allan Austin way back in 1956 (with Brian Evans dangling a sling over the top). There are other fine offerings including a couple of meaty cracks. Guidebook page 120.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Chockstone Chimney 12m. The groove is reached via twin cracks. | Graunchy | VD |
2 |
Buster Direct 10m. Climb the reachy front of the pillar to gain the slanting crack, then jam this to access the easier arete. | 1 Stars Reachy | HVS 5b |
3 |
Buster 12m. Start up the chimney then shuffle round the first arete and cross the face to the second one. Up this - great positions -... | 2 Stars | S 4a |
4 |
Open Chimney 10m. The long rift is an old-style classic, beware the odd loose block. After the second big chockstone, stay close to the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Graunchy | VD |
5 |
The Shelf Top 50 12m. A classic bold outing, now tamed somewhat with modern cunning. Climb the groove to its top and a good pocket. A long... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Rounded Fluttery | E2 5b |
6 |
The Forager 12m. A cop-out from the main challenge but with some good climbing. Up the groove (as for The Shelf) but follow the jamming... | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
7 |
Long Climb 12m. The central rift of the buttress gives a fine outing, steep and quite awkward, as far as the capping roof. A... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Graunchy | HS 4b |
8 |
Lyndhurst 12m. Makes the most of the rock right of Long Climb. An awkward crack (usually avoided) gains the ledge. Climb the wall above... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | E1 5b |
9 |
Cat's Whiskers 14m. Climb the wall to a ledge then make a balancy high step onto the overlap and continue to the roof. A long traverse left... | 1 Stars Rounded | VS 4c |